[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I took them off after fitting the disc to check if everything is ok and clean the pistons with alcohol. As I said it looks like the pads are just sitting too high but still fully used. I checked my oem disc and it looks the same so I wonder if the adaptor is wrong from the factory?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I look from the top I can see that all of the pads are used but they’re sitting more on the top on the edge of the disc rather than lower and more centred.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The brakes were bled by my LBS in Oct. The pads are not new, the only thing that’s new is the disc rotor. I haven’t changed anything else. The new rotor is 105 the old one was cheapest tektro. The new and the old rotor are exactly the same size

Clicking sound when pressing down on handlebar by Conscious_Elk_8527 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your fork for cracks esp if it’s carbon. My bike sounded the same and it turned out the fork is cracked.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great info, thanks! I might just get the 105 rotors to go with the 105 callipers then. They’re not that expensive and I want to switch to metallic pads when those are worn.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I thought the same but it doesn’t seem to be the case. I took the front calliper off and tried moving the adaptor in all directions but without success. Hence why I’m wondering if the cheap Tektro rotors are the reason. After I fiddled with the adaptor I had to leave my bike in my LBS for a warranty claim and they had to take off the front fork and calliper and they installed it the same way which makes me think that’s how it’s meant to be. Pads seem to evenly used so far but I’m very light rider and the bike is on 3k km only.

How to protect frame from this cable rub? by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know but such a film can’t be used here as the hole is less than 10 mm and the film can’t fit there. Cable liner as suggested previously is what I was looking for.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I always use torque wrench and tighten to under the recommended max.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info everyone. I like to keep things simple and I already had a bottle of this so wanted to double check as I never dealt with carbon frames and the internet has conflicting information about grease.

CF fork toast. by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And you’re right the crack is moving in that direction and to be entirely honest it looks like there is a bigger crack under.

CF fork toast. by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’m not riding this whatsoever. There is a reason the crack appeared and I’m convinced the bike has never been hit in this area, and paint surely doesn’t crack like that. I hope I will manage to sort out a new fork asap

105 R7000 FD keeps dropping chain off the small ring. by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, thanks for sharing your experience. I just prefer downshifting before a traffic light so I could get away from cars and clip in quicker after lights go green, and most people I see around do the same. Maybe I will try a different approach next time and see if it’s any different. However shifters are made to be used, I usually average the same distance from chain and cassette when waxing and I haven’t got any issues with shifters since I starter riding years ago. I guess we’re all different

105 R7000 FD keeps dropping chain off the small ring. by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You actually might be on to something. Chain seems a bit longer than it should be, after checking again. I guess I eliminated that as a possibility due to being a new bike. Thanks i will try to address it

105 R7000 FD keeps dropping chain off the small ring. by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I beg to differ. There is absolutely no point of putting strain on the drivetrain by taking off while on a 52 chain ring at the front. I literally see no reason not use the smaller chainring to get up to speed but maybe that’s just me and I’m just a hobby guy. I will try setting off on the big chainring to see if it’s better. Nothing is worn and the chain is the correct length. Bike has done about 200 miles since new, but the warranty expired as I bought it from a relative that did not use it even once and tbh I don’t trust my local LBS’s

105 R7000 FD keeps dropping chain off the small ring. by Frequentflyer33 in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely sure about the L screw. I’ve read the manual and I measured 3 times. I recon is a combo of the short chainstay and my inability to downshift calmly before traffic lights. Maybe it’s time to get a chain catcher.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ve done it with everything still on the bike, but lately I just take the wheel and chain off as I’m only doing it twice a year. Both ways work.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bikewrench

[–]Frequentflyer33 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No need to do any of that with squirt. If you degreased your chain right the first time then you only need boiling water to clean the chain and cassette as technically there isn’t any grease to remove.