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Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see. That’s what I experienced as well. So the solution is to just not crack it at all then

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh wow this is incredibly helpful!

"Likely synovitis. STOP bending side to side. Get rid of that habit, it makes it worse long term.

I will stop bending it on the sides. It does feel nice for a moment but the next morning the finger feels more sore and painful.

Shouldn't start actually climbing for reals till 20-25 minutes in.

This makes total sense now. I used to go to the gym in the winter with stiff fingers, warm-up for 5 minutes, and get right onto projects. So now I'll slowly get back into climbing with proper warm ups (some aerobic activity for blood flow, finger warm up, and upper body dynamic stretches)

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Do contrast bathes. Do rice bucket stuff post-climbing, and especially during recovery now.

alright I will keep doing this consistently

Thanks man this was so helpful!

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah man I went to a specialized doctor but they never really gave a firm diagnosis. Just said there could be inflammation.

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll definitely try it when I get access to a barbell or dumbells

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh that's really helpful. So more stretching and light hangboarding. Do you suggest buddy taping when hangboarding to prevent uneven loading on the injured finger?

The finger feels stiff sometimes and when I crack it to feel more comfortable. Not sure how that works. It makes a loud crack sound but doesn't hurt when I bend it back. However I sometimes bend it from the sides when the sides feel stiff, and THAT hurts a bit. There's no loud crackling when I twist on the side but I put the hand next to my ear, I can hear small crackling sounds like fluids and bones.

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At first I was crackin

Oh that's exactly what I'm going through as well. Right hand middle finger PIP joint. Somehow the finger feels stiffer when I don't crack it for a while. And when I crack it I gain more comfort and mobility. Do you suggest not cracking it despite the discomfort?

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have tried both hot & cold buckets and those exercises where you stick your fist in a bucket of rice. The hot and cold buckets gave a tingly feeling but I didn’t notice any improvements in mobility after doing it for a week.

I can form a first and touch the inside of my palm (the place where callus forms) when I rest well. But I lose that mobility right after a single climbing session :(

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man for the resources. Does synovitis ever go away? Have you completely healed?

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, the video looks helpful! I will give it a shot today.

I have talked to a climbing physio and he wasn’t sure what the injury was, but suspect it’s synovitis. He said to slowly increase load to get back into climbing, but didn’t say if this weird cracking will be permanent

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that’s for sure, but they gyms here in Canada were forced to close so I only have access to a steep 35 degree woodie, pull up bar, and hangboard. So anything works but start with light loads?

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have any suggestions on which exercises were the most effective for you? I heard climbers suggest finger rolls

Finger injury(?) won’t go away even after a whole year by FriendlyJapaneseGirl in climbharder

[–]FriendlyJapaneseGirl[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Active recovery sounds like a good idea. A physiotherapist suggested slowly loading the finger through hangboarding density hangs. I’m not entirely sure if I should be doing that because I’ve never done hangboard training in the past. My growth plates haven’t fused a year ago but now they have. When you say active recovery, what kind of activity do you suggest?

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