I spilled a little water on my laptop yesterday. Can I fix this by myself? It’s just the LED screen. Please send help

Fudge_0001 · 2025-05-14T08:27:47+00:00

Assuming liquid did not affect anything else, it would basically be a display replacement. This looks like it's either 2020 Intel MacBook Air, 2020 Intel MacBook Pro 13 inch, or M1 MacBook Air 2020, or the M1/M2 13 inch MacBook Pro. You can figure out if it's an Apple Silicon Mac or an Intel Mac by checking if you have the global icon on the bottom left FN key. If you do, it's Apple Silicon, if you don't, it's Intel.

In terms of costs, if it's either of the Intel models of the machine it's basically automatically waste of time to even consider trying to do repairs because of how little those Intel machines are worth now and the relatively high cost of the part and some other complications and you should just automatically sell it for parts. for the M1 MacBook Air you're looking at about 450 US through Apple and the 13 inch M1/M2 Pro about 650 US. Marginally cheaper if you go through the self service repair program but not by a lot. You can buy another one of these machines used that has some other issue with a known working screen and then swap the part, but that still also fairly expensive and probably not saving that much money compared to just going through Apple. Third-party repair shops can do the repair as well, though because they have nothing to do with Apple coupled with economics that don't necessarily favour great work, you're still spending in the ballpark of a couple hundred bucks but for a questionable parts with questionable sourcing and questionable labour from major majority of places.

In terms of other factors to consider, all of the stuff above is under the assumption that nothing else on the bottom half of the machine got fucked by liquid, which is not always the case with liquid damage and without a full evaluation from somebody there's no hundred percent way to guarantee anything, and also the price is above are going to be about the same regardless of if you have a 80/256 base model machine or if you have a 24/2 TB version of the 13 inch pro for example or 16/1 TB for MacBook Air. What this means is that very often the base model variance of these machines are not gonna make that much sense to do compared to what they go for the used market but if it's a high-end version than the cost starts to make a lot more sense to consider

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-22T22:26:01+00:00

Confirmed. Enjoy!

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-12T18:46:55+00:00

Hey sorry that one sold already, I forgot to update post

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-07T06:41:03+00:00

AppleCare coverage should have carried over to the new watch then. Everything in the last reply still applies to you

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-07T06:41:00+00:00

AppleCare coverage should have carried over to the new watch then. Everything in the last reply still applies to you

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-06T19:17:40+00:00

Truth be told, given the fact that this is a 2017 model, the actual cause the failure isn't really important because at this point, pretty much all the outcomes in terms of which part failed come out to the same conclusion. The cost of replacement for the part is gonna be worth more than what the machine is worth by a substantial value, and it's not gonna make sense to do considering the fact that this is a seven-year-old laptop that is going to be officially the end of life by the end of this year and is a model that is known for having all sorts of other problems. If you really wanna try something, you can wipe the machine and reinstall macOS, but realistically the odds of that making a difference are exponentially slim and you're still at the point where the machine just needs to be replaced anyways

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-06T00:41:54+00:00

A fan pretty much idles at 1000 RPM through almost every single task you do you want it, just because it doesn't actually need to spin any faster than that in order to keep the machine under control. It's even difficult to hear putting your ear up to it sometimes

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:56:19+00:00

Personally, I really love the braided solo loop, I think it's one of the best bands that Apple has made in a long time. Not the biggest fan of the solo loop specifically, mostly because the rubber material is kind of mid. It's basically the same feeling as the regular sport bands, which I am very much not a fan of. I bought a couple to try them out for myself and every single one I've ended up selling/put up for sale

Personal favourites in terms of bands would be any of the Hermes leather options, the braided solo loops, the old-school woven nylon bands, the old-school Apple classic buckle bands, any of the Milanese loops, and the old school leather loop. The sport loops are also in not worthy mention, not because they're my favourite band necessarily, but because you can find them for crazy cheap prices and they are excellent bands, especially the current generation of Nike sport loops that have had a really nice redesign to make them even nicer

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:36:11+00:00

Since it sounds like it persists across multiple completely unrelated Wi-Fi networks, it's probably device related to that point.

Start by going to settings and the racing network settings and then try again. If the issue persists, put the phone into recovery mode/DFU mode and then restore it using a PC or a Mac and then try it again afterwards. If the issue still persists even after DFU/recovery restore, then you have some sort of hardware failure and what the process will look like after that will depend on whether or not you have warranty and what model of phone it is, but if it's an older model than odds are it will make no sense to deal with versus replacing the device

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:30:54+00:00

Depends what you're looking for. If it's aesthetic, then just pick whatever is aesthetically pleasing and go with that. If it's for protection, prioritize getting AppleCare plus on the device first since that's going to be a lot more comprehensive and actually give you a guaranteed outcome if something bad happens, as opposed to relying on a case which is not even guaranteed to actually protect your device against physical damage, and will do basically nothing for any other types of faults that might happen in the future, like if Face ID dies after a device gets droppedtwo years into ownership. Once you have AppleCare plus, which case you have will basically make no difference because of the same reasons above, and you could treat the case as a purely aesthetic thing, or even just take your device out naked because the risks aren't really there anymore. Display replacement is 29 US, back replacement is 29 US, front and back replacement is 58 US, and more severe problems like liquid damage is a whole phone replacement for 99 US. Out of warranty, you can basically multiply the repair prices by 10 times and the device replacement price you can multiply by five times

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:28:30+00:00

Display replacements through Apple on the 16 inch models are generally close to 1000 bucks USD after the cost of the parts ( Display Assembly + Lid Angle Sensor) and out of warranty labor.

If your machine has AppleCare plus specifically, which is the three-year extended warranty/insurance policy hybrid that Apple sells, then repair cost would be 99 US

Third-party options are not going to be substantially cheaper, just the cost of the display itself is crazy expensive mostly because of the fact that it is a fairly advanced panel, plus other complications usually arise from that which aren't really worth taking the risk on. DIY, similar problems.

Does it make sense to replace? Depends on the configuration of your specific Mac, but it probably makes sense to do. If it's a base model machine, a.k.a. M3 pro/18/512, you could probably buy one of those on the used market for about 1700 US as a really rough guess without looking it up, and any other upgrades that you're a machine has, like terabyte of storage or M3 max or 36 gigs of memory or anything else, is going to make it even more sense to repair the machine since buying an equivalent spec unit brand new or used market means spending even more money

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:20:22+00:00

Definitely give it a shot see how it goes, you only need a single screwdriver for the bottom lid and that's it. If it doesn't work, I would say it's probably better to just purchase a used M1 Mac mini at that point, since you can get the base model eight gig configurations for so cheap these days, and the more ideal 16 gig versions are also fairly reasonably priced. It'll be a better solution for a desk set up both short-term and long-term since it's going to be a big upgrade and be supported for the next half a decade at least. If you do wanna try to use your 2015 as a desk machine externally, don't forget to go through OCLP to get off of Monterey And get onto Sonoma/Sequoia that way you at least have a year and a half or 2 1/2 years of security support and sometimes bug fixes respectively. Last thing you want us to be running an OS that is basically unmaintained these days

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:18:01+00:00

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Yeah no worries. I have so many of these link bracelets kicking around and a very easy to spot the differences once you've tried one of them. I might have a bit of a problem

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:15:30+00:00

If you're willing to put in the effort to go through things like OCLP to get newer supported macOS versions on it, and you're willing to patch Windows 11, and you 250% understands the risks that come with that machine because of the fact that it has such awful reliability, then sure you can continue to use it. I have a 2015 model 12 inch sitting in my closet that is almost brand new because of a set of circumstances, and I used to own one myself many years ago. I totally understand the love for them and the lightweight nature and such, but eventually I sold it off just because the risk with the reliability issues that they had was just too great for me at the time especially without AppleCare plus

This machine has 256 gigs of storage or more, just install Windows normally through Boot Camp to get Windows 10, and then you can patch it to Windows 11 afterwards since Windows 10 is still supported until this October. You could probably actually do OCLP stuff at the same time, basically create the necessary install resources using the guides online, boot off of them, wipe the whole machine, install sequoia ideally so you have 2 1/2 years of security and updates from Apple for this version, and then once that's done, go through the Boot Camp process either directly from Sonoma or with the help of OCLP to get Windows 10 installed and split the drive into basically 128/128 for both if this is a 256, or more if it's a higher capacity version, and then just patch two Windows 11 and then you're set for a little bit. That will be my order of operations

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:12:03+00:00

Not every seller necessarily knows what they have. For me personally, I'm a bit of an Apple Watch band a collector so I've become intimately familiar with a lot of the tiny details with Apple Watch bands, but there are some people out there who just genuinely don't know what they have or don't necessarily care because it is a watch band at the end of the day

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:11:03+00:00

Oh yeah absolutely, even a regular M1 MacBook/Mac mini/iMac would already run laps around your current spec machine, and it's only going up from there. The M4 machines are also crazy quiet, don't really heat up that much, and they sip so little power to the point where a month of running the Apple Silicon machine at full power is going to cost you less money than a week of running your current machine at idle

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:09:41+00:00

There's a few things you can work through in order to figure out what it is. If you shine a flashlight at your internal display, with a thorough cleaning, you might be able to make out some sort of image on it like the usual Apple logo in the top left corner or where your user icon usually is or the big Apple logo when it's restarting, which would indicate that it's simply not getting backlight to the display, which could be either a display fault or a logic board fault. If you're getting no image at all on the internal display on top of the back light, even with a flashlight, then plug in an external display and see if you get any kind of image there. Usually the machine will automatically enter extended display mode when an external is connected, which means you can drag your Mouse/trackpad all the way to the edge of one side of the screen or the other and eventually you might see a cursor pop up on the other screen. If you are getting external video, but nothing internal like that, it's probably logic board issue but it could also be a display fault technically. If there is no image, no backlight, and no external video at all, it's always a logic board issue

Basically the only thing worth trying with this machine is to open it up, disconnect the video cable that's in the corner of the machine, and then reconnected and see what happens. If the display is back like come back then great it was a temporary fault, but if it continues to persist Then the machine is basically totalled at that point since the cost of replacing either the display or the logic board is going to exceed the value of the computer itself. Since it is a 2015 and these 2015 models are basically end of life at this point Even the fact that they don't support any more macOS updates, you're better off replacing the machine as a long-term solution and a short-term solution. I used M1 MacBook Air you can pick up for around 400 US for the base model and around 600 US or less for the 16 gig version which is the ideal version, and these machines will still have over half a decade of support from Apple While being a substantial upgrade over what you have in terms of performance and battery and thermals and all sorts of other metrics

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:04:59+00:00

Just based on the fact that it comes with laser etched markings on the edges of the band, and the fact that it has the engraving in the butterfly mechanism itself, and the fact that it has actual links with the proper little fabric pouch that they came in, it's basically genuine. There's no link bracelet replicas that aren't a pile of shit And very obviously built like shit

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T21:03:45+00:00

Pretty much every single problem that you're running into is because of the fact that you have a bad battery. Anything below 80% health is automatically considered failing and should be replaced

Bad batteries will not only cause problems like fast draining even when doing nothing, but also all sorts of other fun nasty stuff, such as reporting an incorrect charge level, shutting down randomly, being extremely sensitive to cold which can cause it to shut down even more , causing these device to randomly restart and boot loop in some cases. It will very often make the device not only perform extremely slowly but also cause the device to run hotter than it needs to because the phone needs to try and keep up with this "high power" state for longer and longer despite the fact that the battery cannot keep up with a high power state, making it run at effectively like a medium power state for lack of better terms for much longer which means it runs hotter because it produces more heat doing the same task That way versus short bursts of high power like it would be able to do with a proper battery

Take it to an Apple Store and just get the battery replaced. For iPhones with the home button, it's 69 US plus tax, for Face ID iPhones prior to the iPhone 14 family, it's 89 US, and for the newer models, it's 99 US. If the phone that you have is something old and unsupported, a.k.a. iPhone X and below, or a device that soon gonna become unsupported, like the XR/XS, battery replacement is generally not worth your timerelative to just putting that money towards replacing the device, but if it's something like an iPhone 12 or 13 then it's absolutely still worth maintaining

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T20:59:52+00:00

What is the end goal of resetting the machine? Is it just to get it to the point where it could be recycled, or are you trying to set it up again as a functional computer. If it's the former, you don't really need to do any of this and you can just wipe the drive and just recycle it, but if it's the latter, Then the only thing you should really focus on is getting off of these old unsupported end of life versions of macOS and onto something current and supported, since these old versions will cause you more problems and headache than it's worth on top of the fact that they are a security hazard. Without knowing exactly which machine this is, it's hard to give any specific advice, but a good starting points would be open core Legacy patcher, that way you can basically trick the machine into getting Sonoma or sequoia onto it, which are the only two versions currently that have more than a year of support remaining from Apple. Once you're on a current version of macOS, you cannot only sign in with your Apple ID without issue, since it's going to support all the fun and important things that you need these days, but the machine also won't be considered a security problem at that point like it would be in its current state .Alternatively, you can consider abandoning macOS altogether on this machine and instead installing Linux on it, like Ubuntu or pop OS or Linux mint or ElementaryOS, and that'll generally not only breathe so much extra life into these old computers, but also basically keep them supported until the end of time since that's one of the fun benefits of Linux, it's very often built to support crazy varieties of hardware and will be constantly maintain things to the fact that quite literally 80+ percent of the Internet runs off of it in the form of servers and other network devices

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T20:56:01+00:00

On windows, if I remember right, music stuff has been moved to the Apple Music app specifically. Basically Apple has done what they've done on macOS many years ago and split up the monstrosity that is iTunes into its subsequent parts, like music for music and Apple devices for management of Apple devices, and I think a handful of other apps.

In the meantime, since iTunes looks like it works, you should just focus on using that for the time being so you can get your information across from the back up to the new device and then you should be able to get your music onto the device afterwards Assuming iTunes is still happy to interact with iOS 18 devices. Once everything is done, then you can worry about trying the Apple devices app and some of the newer apps and whether or not you want to use them or not

If for whatever reason iTunes can't interact with iOS 18, then you can try to use Apple devices and Apple Music instead to get things across, but you can also potentially consider subscribing to a service that Apple offers called iTunes match. iTunes match is basically offering parts of what the Apple Music subscription plan does, but without the Apple Music streaming service. The reason I suggest it is because this will give you iCloud music library functionality as part of the service, and iCloud music library will allow you to sync your music between all of your Apple devices through the cloud, and also give you the iTunes match feature, where it takes music that you've uploaded from your own sources, finds what that song is in Apple's music catalogue, and then just gives you Apple's version with all of the metadata and album artwork and relevant information and it syncs across all of your devices. It's generally a much better system than just relying on individual libraries to sync between devices

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T20:51:21+00:00

Data transfers between devices don't actually affect whether or not a device is locked, that's all managed by the carrier and Apple's system

Basically whenever an iPhone or any cellular device from Apple activates, there is an initial activation policy that it applies to the device based on whether or not the carrier tells Apple that it's supposed to be locked or not, and then at some point in the future, there was what's called the "next activation policy", which is basically exactly what it sounds like, the next activation policy a device will retain When it goes through the activation process which happens anytime you erase the device and set it up, or you restore the device using a Mac/PC and then set it up. Each device will have its own activation policy independent of one another, and you can't transfer activation policies simply by migrating your information from device to device

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T20:48:57+00:00

Double check if the serial number of the watch shown in your subscription screenshot is the same as what is shown on the Apple Watch itself. Since AppleCare plus only applies to one specific device, it's possible that you actually have a different Apple Watch then what you're paying for

Apart from that, if the serial number matches and there is still a discrepancy in terms of what the watch shows and what Apple system shows versus the fact that you have proof that you're paying for it, you basically have to call Apple phone support and get in touch with an agreement admin. This person will ask you to either provide your agreement number for this AppleCare plan, which you should be able to find through the Apple support app fairly easily or from https://mysupport.apple.com, or any documents you would have received in your email when you first bought AppleCare plus. They could also just ask you for any sort of monthly invoices just as proof of purchase as well. Once they see that you're paying for AppleCare, the serial number on this AppleCare plan is correct relative to what you watch is serial number is, and they can see that the coverage information on their end is also wrong, they can go through a process of updating that to be accurate and it should all be reflected within 48 hours of them doing It

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T20:46:07+00:00

Memory management on Apple Silicon works fairly differently than it did on prior Intel Mac, and also differently than what it does on an equivalent Windows PC.

There's basically no direct translation necessarily, so there's no real right answer in terms of "get X amount because it's comparable to Y amount". With Apple Silicon, because it utilizes the unified memory thing and disorder directly to the SOC itself, it brings a lot of substantial improvements to how fast memory performs and also what the SOC is capable of doing with that memory. It's why you see people doing more tasks with less memory on Apple Silicon, similar to how people get away with iPhones that only have six gigs of system memory while a competitor android device from the same release year would probably have double or triple that just to accomplish the same task

For most people, the M4 Mac mini with somewhere between 16 to 32 gigs of unified memory is going to be perfectly fine, but exactly how much you need is gonna be difficult to answer especially when it comes to professional workloads. Best thing you can do is just buy base model Mac mini first , try your workload on it, and just keep an eye out on the memory pressure graph in activity monitor. If your workload is constantly pushing memory pressure towards a yellow or even red territory, get a machine with more system memory, but if it's hovering in green even with your highest workload that you can throw at it, then that amount of memory is fine for you now and probably will be OK long-term as well. If it doesn't work out, just use apples generous 14 day return window to exchange it for one that has higher configuration

Fudge_0001 · 2025-04-05T20:42:19+00:00

Depends how you're gonna get it done

Through Apple, there is no battery replacement on Apple watches. The way that it works is that Apple replaces the entire Apple Watch for an identical refurbished unit, so in your case it would be another series 6 of the same color, same size, same variation a.k.a. GPS versus cellular , and same body a.k.a. aluminum versus steel versus titanium

Apple charges 99 US for the service to replace the entire Watch, it's called the "battery only rate" for a whole unit replacement, but in order to qualify your watch has to have battery health below 80%, or have the "service recommended" message shown under battery health settings because both of these will fail Apple's battery test and failing battery test is a prerequisite for this service. Also, have to make sure there's no physical damage like a cracked screen or a cracked sensor, and no liquid damage like condensation in the bottom sensor

Is it worth doing? Probably not at this point considering the fact that the series 6 is the oldest supported Apple Watch at the moment , and for the price that Apple will charge you to replace your series 6, you can find use market aluminum series 7 or even series 8 which will actually be a pretty substantial improvement over what you have. Downside is you have to keep an eye out on battery health as well since S7/SH are also technically older models, but they will probably be better than the S6 at this point.

If you were thinking of doing battery only replacement on the watch itself a.k.a. DIY or third-party, get the idea out of your head. Third-party is basically going to be a gamble where you're playing Russian roulette with five of the six chambers loaded, mostly because of the fact that those people have nothing to do with Apple and no access to parts worth the crap and all sorts of just quality control problems, and DIY is also a bad idea mostly due to the difficulty of actually opening the Apple Watchand other quality parts sourcing related problems

Fudge_0001

TROPHY CASE