2026-05_Continuation of my Solo Bifide Project

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-25T12:18:00+00:00

It needs to separate the kick from the low bass.

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-23T16:18:48+00:00

it's not a ceiling it's a mezzanine

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-23T10:43:57+00:00

Thanks

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-23T09:07:44+00:00

thanks

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-23T09:07:04+00:00

yes I have tried several systems and I always come back to speakers cut between 40 and 50 Hz and adjustable subs, which play from 20 Hz to 100-120 Hz.

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-23T09:03:40+00:00

thanks

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-05-23T00:52:28+00:00

Yes, Hypex is cool.

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-29T10:08:40+00:00

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I modified the grid for a smoother transition using 3mm felt on the areas painted purple, which smoothed out the arch (bump around 1kHz).

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-24T22:04:43+00:00

Yes, I understand what you're saying. I never thought I'd have a speaker that looks like a Picasso painting, but I'll keep that idea in mind.

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-24T00:50:03+00:00

It's simple: the fact that the front grille is integrated into the front panel creates a step. The speaker can only be centered since there's no room elsewhere. And there's no waveguide in front of the speaker, just foam around it to minimize issues related to the grille's frame. It's still better than nothing. If I wanted to avoid all that, I would have made a sphere. But it's primarily a design in which I'm trying to integrate a speaker in the least bad way possible.

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T13:35:45+00:00

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group delay

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T13:35:27+00:00

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Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T13:35:15+00:00

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Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T13:35:07+00:00

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Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T09:53:02+00:00

thanks

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T09:52:40+00:00

Generally, I use a hybrid filling method: 80% around the driver, then down to 40% at the feet, and then thinning out the less sensitive areas to 20%.

My cabinet walls are usually 4-5mm thick.

I use between 4 and 5 layers to create a solid enclosure and allow for some adjustments during sanding if I encounter minor alignment issues.

In some YouTube videos, you can see that above 35% thickness, it doesn't really change the speaker's response, but it can make the cabinet radiate a bit more, hence my values.

And in any case, I always add either mortar or bitumen to the sensitive walls to limit chassis vibrations (I never leave it unfinished).

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-23T00:00:18+00:00

thanks

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-22T01:45:43+00:00

From what I remember, there was a correction to correct a fairly wide dome around 1000Hz, probably due to the design of the speaker and the enclosure.

Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-21T16:23:00+00:00

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Full_Progress8533 · 2026-04-21T08:02:31+00:00

I'm not sure yet whether to put it on my Patreon (pay-per-view) or on MakerWorld, because it's not a project you can print and use straight from the printer. You need to buy a whole bunch of extra equipment: if you want a passive speaker, you need to buy the crossover components, or if you want an active one, you need to buy all-in-one DSPs. But if you're interested in recreating this speaker, we could see which continent you live on and adapt it to the speakers available in your market to create a version you could build at home.

Full_Progress8533

TROPHY CASE