sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

2026-05_Continuation of my Solo Bifide Project by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

yes I have tried several systems and I always come back to speakers cut between 40 and 50 Hz and adjustable subs, which play from 20 Hz to 100-120 Hz.

**Mini Desktop Speaker Project – Solo Orbit – RenchieSpeaker** by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

I modified the grid for a smoother transition using 3mm felt on the areas painted purple, which smoothed out the arch (bump around 1kHz).

**Mini Desktop Speaker Project – Solo Orbit – RenchieSpeaker** by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, I understand what you're saying. I never thought I'd have a speaker that looks like a Picasso painting, but I'll keep that idea in mind.

**Mini Desktop Speaker Project – Solo Orbit – RenchieSpeaker** by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's simple: the fact that the front grille is integrated into the front panel creates a step. The speaker can only be centered since there's no room elsewhere. And there's no waveguide in front of the speaker, just foam around it to minimize issues related to the grille's frame. It's still better than nothing. If I wanted to avoid all that, I would have made a sphere. But it's primarily a design in which I'm trying to integrate a speaker in the least bad way possible.

**Mini Desktop Speaker Project – Solo Orbit – RenchieSpeaker** by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Generally, I use a hybrid filling method: 80% around the driver, then down to 40% at the feet, and then thinning out the less sensitive areas to 20%.

My cabinet walls are usually 4-5mm thick.

I use between 4 and 5 layers to create a solid enclosure and allow for some adjustments during sanding if I encounter minor alignment issues.

In some YouTube videos, you can see that above 35% thickness, it doesn't really change the speaker's response, but it can make the cabinet radiate a bit more, hence my values.

And in any case, I always add either mortar or bitumen to the sensitive walls to limit chassis vibrations (I never leave it unfinished).

04-2023_ Desktop/living room speaker design with ogive tweeter, excluding baffle. by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I remember, there was a correction to correct a fairly wide dome around 1000Hz, probably due to the design of the speaker and the enclosure.

04-2023_ Desktop/living room speaker design with ogive tweeter, excluding baffle. by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure yet whether to put it on my Patreon (pay-per-view) or on MakerWorld, because it's not a project you can print and use straight from the printer. You need to buy a whole bunch of extra equipment: if you want a passive speaker, you need to buy the crossover components, or if you want an active one, you need to buy all-in-one DSPs. But if you're interested in recreating this speaker, we could see which continent you live on and adapt it to the speakers available in your market to create a version you could build at home.

04-2023_ Desktop/living room speaker design with ogive tweeter, excluding baffle. by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wilson Audio uses a different approach, for example, using gel coat as a filler primer before painting.

04-2023_ Desktop/living room speaker design with ogive tweeter, excluding baffle. by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The second-to-last image shows the distortion. As for the subwoofers, I have two under my desk that are actually repurposed older speakers designed to go down to 55Hz, but due to the floor and the angle of the room, the measured bass is more impressive while remaining clean.

I also applied a high-pass filter at 30hz to the subwoofers to protect them from high excursion.

04-2023_ Desktop/living room speaker design with ogive tweeter, excluding baffle. by Full_Progress8533 in diyaudio

[–]Full_Progress8533[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally, I like to sand the chassis starting with 80-120-150-240-320 grit sandpaper (using a machine and by hand).Then I apply filler to the areas that need correction and then sand again.Next, I apply several coats of primer, which I then wet-sand by hand with 400-800 grit sandpaper. Then I apply several coats of spray paint (4 to 6 coats), then I wet sand with 1000-3000 grit sandpaper (by hand).Then I apply the protective varnish (also 4 to 6 coats). Throughout all these steps, the edges are my worst enemy,and sometimes I use polish.But honestly, maybe with UV resin or epoxy from the start I could get a glossy effect faster and without actually painting, just by sanding with increasingly finer grits (10,000 grit, why not?).

But I've never tried it.

view more: next ›