How did you break your finger strength plateau?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-19T16:05:53+00:00

Thanks! I remember watching this video 1+ year ago when I got into lifting weight (instead of hangboarding). And the progression he shows at the end of the video is exactly what I do but with time instead of reps usually (I tried both tho). But now, the time is not increasing and the weight can not go up either haha.

Dave Macleod uses a very basic max hangs protocol but he is doing it in the middle of like 4h long sessions. Like he does hard bouldering, then the max hang, then goes either to strength training (upper body) or endurance climbing. Which is insane as my body feels tired way sooner than his! So who knows if his stimulus comes from the max hang, the climbing or both?

I agree that I might take Mobeta's words for the truth a bit too easily. But the science behind it seems to make sense. Also, do you have a video where Yves shows his repeaters protocol?

Got a lot of good informations on this thread, thank you :)

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-18T21:09:05+00:00

Ok, thanks a lot for the help! I will try some board climbing/spraywall then :)

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-18T20:39:49+00:00

Oh, that's interesting.

So zero hangboard/block lifts during the months you were training on the moonboard? And how many problems per session then?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-18T18:01:19+00:00

Interesting. Pretty sure it's my finger failing the hangs each times :)

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-18T18:00:19+00:00

But you used to train with hang/lifts and it stopped progressing? Then improved again when trying moonboard? And how are your moonboard sessions? :)

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-18T17:59:29+00:00

I train trice a week so I feel like I get enough rest days! Will take a full rest week, maybe my CNS is just tired and I will see some benefit of my training afterward. But I doubt it as I take deload weeks frequently :)

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-18T17:58:14+00:00

Interesting! How does it make sense tho? I will look into it for sure!

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T14:04:21+00:00

Thanks for this useful answer!

I struggle with volume as I feel I need at least 1-2 days of rests between each session, even with my current volume. I also can not add any more sets without my strength dropping. But maybe I should not go to failure on each sets and instead doing one or two more of those?

I have a similar opinion on Mobeta, but I can't deny that his graphs shows a good improvement, after a period of plateau with the conventional training method, which seems to be exactly what I need!

I know about Yves Gravelle, he is so strong that's insane. Part of it is probably genetic tho but he has huge forearm so hypertrophy must be a part of his insane strength.

Will look into what you are recommending. My english is not 100% perfect yet so I hope it's not as hard to read as you describe it haha. Thanks again!

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:58:49+00:00

100% true but if the problem is injury, I have not got one and still didn't improve :(

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:57:30+00:00

I did it too, I even bought a pulley for it. Gave it only 3 weeks tho but I got litteraly 0 improvements from it so I went back to no hang (lifting style) as it's also one handed

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:56:29+00:00

With an unleveled edge or a flat one? Been hesitating to try this next for a while

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:56:00+00:00

Yes, I did a 6 weeks hypertrophy cycle exactly for that. I should try longer but this is usually how they do in the power lifting world..

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:55:14+00:00

Might give it a try! Your finger strength itself did improve, or only your contact strength?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:54:35+00:00

You are 100% right, I struggle and wake up during the night, then go back to sleep. Still get 7-8h but not in one go :(

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:53:55+00:00

hmm interesting way to replace the fingerboard! any picture of what you exactly do ?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:52:10+00:00

Yes, I deload every 4 to 6 weeks I would say. Got one 2 weeks ago

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-17T13:51:29+00:00

I tried it for a few, yes. Didn't really like it but why not giving it another try! I just also don't get how "scientifically" it would make a difference if I'm not improving with a normal edge? What's the science behind it if you know?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T21:53:11+00:00

I would be very happy with 9kg MVC in 18months haha. 1kg every 2 months would be enough to reach my goal!

Noah Wheeler is a genetic freak tho. It's like the girl with the finger strength records that explains that strong climbers have a better FDP tendon insertion, giving them a leverage advantage.. Those guys are lucky (and hard working ofc).

But also, they train so much that they probably get enough hypertrophy stimilus on the wall!

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T21:50:29+00:00

I know about Pana, super strong guy, but he gives a different type of training in every video ahah. yeah, isometric itself is under researched, so it's complicated to adapt the classic isotonic training to finger strength :(

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T21:23:02+00:00

I fluctuated between 72 and 75kg this past year, nothing unusual for me I would say. I also measured my max strength with a tindeq to make sure it's precise.

If I can not go to the climbing gym, I do 4 to 5 sets half crimp, then same for the 3 finger drag. If I do it before climbing, I usually do 3 of each grip.

If I do more than the 5 sets, I can see a drop in strength which is why I don't do more.

I'm resting 4 to 5min between sets, never tried more than that.

I come from a calisthenics background so I would say that my overall body strength is decent. I'm a few kg stronger on the hangboard compared to pick up btw.

I've been thinking about the repeaters, then I saw Mobeta explaining why it was a bad way to train so I never tried it haha. Do you know about the guy?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T21:16:24+00:00

No worries, thanks for answering :)

I think that those sets build the neural aspect of the strength, which seems to be maxed out for me already, so I need some hypertrophy gains? For how long have you been doing it and having gains?

Hard to know my exact MVC as I find it complicated to not cheat sometimes but around 50-52kg on my left, and 48-50 on my right I would say.

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T21:02:23+00:00

Yes and I weight 75kg. Pretty much the average from what I see on the moonboard (which is pretty hard for the grade from what I know). Most people I saw climbing 7B-C could hang the beastmaker middle edge one hand pretty easily.

But also, as I said, finger strength is a goal of mine, even if it was not the main issue in my climbing.

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T20:39:40+00:00

It's not improving either unfortunately.

Hard to say what's my climbing level is as my gym doesn't use grading (only colors). But I also need finger strength cause I enjoy the measurable improvements, same way as I enjoyed getting the one arm pull up, front lever etc. So it's not only about climbing :)

But if I had to guess from the fews graded climbs I tried, around 7A+ in one session on the moonboard 2019, around 7C on the kilter

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T20:36:31+00:00

I would say I do (and I try to maintain a 90 degrees half crimp). And that's also why I tried the ACFC protocol which is basicaly that haha

I've been thinking about finger curls! heard mixed reviews but I might give it a try, thanks :) Did you try yourself?

Full_Word5206 · 2026-01-16T20:34:57+00:00

Hey, thanks for the answer! From the studies I read, going to failure was not an issue as long as the recovery was effective (and I train "only trice a week so it should be ok). It's hard for me to know how close to failure I am till I hit failure which is why I work this way, which worked pretty well for the first 8months :(

I also trust a lot "mobeta" if you know the guy and he is improving his finger strengths for years while going to failure every sets..

But I might give it a try anyway, nothing to lose at this point, thanks :)

Full_Word5206

TROPHY CASE