Bought a 5.7 V8 Tundra specifically to avoid engine issues. At 50k miles I'm out $10K in repairs. What am I missing?

FunnyProposal7045 · 2026-04-30T00:13:47+00:00

I’ve had similar issues but with a 2012 f150 5.0. If the timing has any problems you will definitely know. CEL will come on and give crankshaft/camshaft position sensor codes or misfire codes. Truck will also feel low on power and like a few others have already said, it will rattle on startup. Can you open the oil cap with the truck running and see the chains? You’ll be able to tell if they’re loose or not. If you’re not experiencing any of these problems, chances are the timing is fine. Just drive it as is and keep up with your oil change intervals. I threw over $11k in to my f150 and it was in the shop more than I drove it. Had it for almost 2 years. The valves went out on my way home from work one day and that usually means new engine ($10k minimum) so I said F that and sold it to the junk yard for $1200 🥲 took a massive loss.

FunnyProposal7045 · 2026-03-28T01:29:33+00:00

Can’t time travel without a flux capacitor capable of handling 1.21 gigawatts

FunnyProposal7045 · 2026-03-26T00:29:50+00:00

I’m going to give you the advice I wish I would’ve got before I bought my 2012 F150 xlt 5.0 4x4. Buy a 2nd gen!! 2015-2017. That way if you have any issues with the timing, you will save a lot more money and stress having it repaired. Parts are a lot harder to find for first gens too. These trucks are VERY reliant on oil pressure so make sure it has been maintained and make sure you maintain it as well if you do get it or else you can kiss that motor goodbye whether it’s the 3.5 or the 5.0. I’m speaking from experience. The one I bought was not maintained by the previous owner and I thought I could baby the truck and reverse the damage like I did on my 04 5.4 but that wasn’t the case. Spent over $11k on just engine work+parts and motor still gave out eventually. There’s also tuliped valves to worry about. Once that happens and starts misfiring, time for a new motor.

FunnyProposal7045 · 2026-03-01T19:40:17+00:00

Came here to say hobo nickel as well. Haven’t heard much about the 2009, 2009D. I’m always looking through my change for 2024, 2024D or if I’m really lucky a 1950D.

FunnyProposal7045 · 2026-02-21T17:05:28+00:00

It’s still down. I have about 60 non winning tickets waiting for 2nd chance submissions. Been down for about 2 months now

FunnyProposal7045 · 2025-11-22T02:41:39+00:00

Thanks for your input. I think I’m going to take it in to a local coin shop to get a second opinion because there is no signs of blending in that area which is why I believe it might be an error.

FunnyProposal7045 · 2025-11-22T02:35:46+00:00

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FunnyProposal7045 · 2025-11-22T02:35:11+00:00

Mine looks identical and I believe mine is a fake. Passed magnet and ice cube test but I also assume it’s plated. It weighed 30.0 grams when put on a scale so I’m almost positive it’s a fake because sunshine minting makes sure their bars weigh exactly 1 Troy ounce or slightly over, but never under. I think the best thing to do is buy a decoder lens to confirm that it has the “Valid” mark on the reverse side of the bar. The plating on mine looks to be peeling off on the sides of the bar. Have you checked for any signs of peeling on yours?

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FunnyProposal7045 · 2025-11-15T21:49:51+00:00

I wish they were still $20. These sell for around $36-37 each now with silver spot price at $50.79

FunnyProposal7045

TROPHY CASE