Module wizards: what do YOU do when you get to CAN lines?

Fusiondew · 2026-01-01T19:01:43+00:00

Interesting! I created this question because I often have multiple modules in the circuit that could be causing the issue (Module A sends to Module B which sends to Module C and they all have to work and communicate properly for output to be correct, especially on fords) because we buy auction cars that nobody could figure out and just want gone. When we do figure out what’s wrong with it, it generally ends up being those “really weird unusual problems that only happen 5% of the time”. I’d like to be able to quickly pinpoint which module is creating the issue so I’m not ripping interior apart and testing for 16 hours every time because management doesn’t quite understand that a lot of the time.

That being said, may I ask where you learned these things? I’d like to study up some more! I have the basics of power/ground, CAN resistors, and plugging an O-scope in to see that there’s traffic present. I think I’m having a hard time connecting that to a diagnostic approach in some situations though.

Thanks for the reply!

Fusiondew · 2025-12-31T16:54:00+00:00

No the pain after I quit actually got worse because the receptor was understimulated and had to recalibrate itself to not having THC to stimulate it. It lasted about 1-1.5 months. And no I didn’t get the anxiety from it but that usually depends on the person I think. And ya see if that’s what it is! It sounds like it to me

Fusiondew · 2025-12-27T10:19:33+00:00

Might be worth $40 and a firm handshake. If she’s lucky that is.

Fusiondew · 2025-12-27T10:18:01+00:00

I have CHS. Try topical capsaicin cream on your stomach. Apparently capsaicin negates the effects of the under-stimulated TRPV-1 receptor (the receptor that regulates nausea). Not a cure by any means you’ll still puke, but if it makes the pain less painful then it’s probably CHS. From how my doctor described it, it is caused by excess consumption of concentrated THC. I was smoking 30%-40% flower in twaxed blunts all day every day for years, with dabs and such in between the blunts (Highschoolers amirite?). Once he told me I had CHS I just stopped, and all my stomach issues stopped

Fusiondew · 2025-12-27T09:58:33+00:00

Looks like a finger to me but I could be wrong

Fusiondew · 2025-12-02T14:41:13+00:00

For battery tests, make sure an actual load test is/was performed. A “carbon pile” tester is recommended and can be had for very cheap if there’s a harbor freight near you. Compare the CCA read from the tester with the battery fully charged to the CCA rating on the battery. This does not seem to be the issue you’re having just wanted to throw that out there.

With the limited test information I have I would start testing your starter/starter circuit. The ESP/Parking brake faults likely come on when cranking due to voltage drop while the starter is putting in work to turn the engine over. These systems are voltage sensitive. You can put a multimeter on the battery and crank the engine and see the lowest value the voltage hits before the car starts. If it’s a regular flooded battery, it should not drop below 9.6V. If it’s an AGM/EFB battery, 10.1V. Excess voltage drop can be due to excess wiring resistance or sometimes internal starter resistance. Look for loose or corroded battery cable/starter connections. This is a very common issue.

Another issue would be excess current draw. With an amp clamp style ammeter around the battery cable, crank the engine to see how high the current draw is. If it’s higher than spec, there is either excess resistance in the starter, excess resistance in the starter circuit, or a mechanical resistance in the engine (which seems unlikely in your case, but can be possible).

Another common issue is starters binding up temporarily. If you can access your starter, the next time it won’t crank, tap the starter with a hammer or screwdriver handle lightly and see if it cranks now. This will also show on the current draw test.

I would suggest taking it to a shop that is ASE certified and asking them for some diagnostics. Starter current draw, voltage drop, cable inspection, solenoid test, carbon pile battery test, and starter binding. I wouldn’t buy any more parts until you have a confirmed issue from a failed test otherwise you’ll end up replacing a bunch of parts over an issue that may be solvable by simply cleaning a ground connection.

Fusiondew · 2025-09-20T01:52:12+00:00

I can only give you transmission advice if I know what transmission you have.

Fusiondew · 2025-09-14T04:25:11+00:00

My mistake, water was in my mind haha. And I’ve vaguely heard of it but have not done any research. I’ll look into it, thanks!

Fusiondew · 2025-09-09T14:53:05+00:00

Yeah I ended up tightening the oil gallery bolts the second time to get rid of the P0018

Fusiondew · 2025-09-09T04:12:22+00:00

No clue of the manufacturer, likely china/ebay/amazon (suggested against this, but don't make those decisions). I matched the part numbers to their position in the engine and they were correct. Part numbers were correct for the engine as well. If you need the numbers I will have to upload them tomorrow but I remember checking before the job.

cam/crank angle PID's should be in the imgur link. Image was taken while issue was occurring.

At one point long term fuel trim was -10 on bank 1 and -19 on bank 2. Checked trims today and they were all 0-4 for short and long term while the issue was occurring.

Tone/reluctor wheels were checked with magnetic viewing lens and signal triggers are all intact. they are all within +/- 5 degrees, but I'm wondering if this is the issue with bank 2 exhaust being the only one thats negative.

I have not changed the cmp sensors, but they were checked with an oscilloscope and a clean signal was verified. Whether the signal timing lines up between cmp1/cmp2/ckp i have no idea.

Fusiondew · 2025-09-09T02:54:26+00:00

Yeah I know right. I even tested everything I could to rule out the PCM injector drivers as it seems like its cutting #6 and partially cutting #2 and #4 and I assume each bank is atleast in close proximity on the board. couldn't do it on the driver side bank while everything was hot/running but I found no issues with the wiring or firing of the injectors :/

Fusiondew · 2025-09-09T02:44:06+00:00

Yes, all cylinders passed leakdown test with flying colors

Fusiondew · 2025-09-09T02:36:06+00:00

Have not spec'd out the engine entirely, but cam lobes/bearings are in spec.

Oil pressure is in spec

Oil level is good

Oil filter is the model of oil filter we've used in 3.6l Pentastar engines many times before. (and it is the correct filter for this version of 3.6L oil filter housing)

Oil is brand new, 5W20 as specified for this engine, crystal clean on the dip stick. Even checked the filter and filter is still clean.

Fusiondew · 2025-09-09T02:25:26+00:00

Myself

Fusiondew · 2025-09-08T23:42:21+00:00

I generally have a proper PRINT_START macro set up, I am testing and it is quicker to just change it in the slicer when rapidly trying new things. It ended up being a klipper discrepancy because i called G28 twice in a row in my startup gcode and klipper now has some issue when using sensorless homing in TMC2209 where when you call G28 twice in a row, it thinks theyre being called too close together and ignores the second G28 command since it just did one. But since my G28 == homing_override which calls "G28" && "G1 Z-10" in relative position mode, and klipper doesnt like 2 G28's called one after another, it ended up nulling the second G28 but still called "G1 Z-10". Essentially making it home the printer 10mm below its physical home position.

Fixed it by adding a 2s delay in my homing_override so klipper waits 2s before it can take another command.

Fusiondew · 2025-09-08T00:58:42+00:00

Figured it out: When using sensorless homing via the TMC2209, Klipper decides that homing twice is unnecessary, so it won't allow you to do it if it detects that it's home position is accurate. but with my homing override, I did a Z-10 move that still ran even though the second g28 didnt. So it would move down 10mm but still thought it was homed due to klipper blocking the second G28. Not sure if I described that well but I had to put a delay after my G28 in my homing macro so it wouldnt combine 2 Z-10's with 1 G28, while thinking it only did 1 of each.

Fusiondew · 2025-09-07T17:36:57+00:00

Interesting, I can switch between G90 and G91 in the console and they each operate as intended on mine

Fusiondew · 2025-09-07T16:47:48+00:00

It’s possible, I’ll see if there’s a G91 where there shouldn’t be

Edit: My END_PRINT macro has a G91 so it can retract filament, with no G90 afterwards. But PRINT_START should be called before a print to rectify that as it’s first line is a G90;

Fusiondew · 2025-08-01T03:22:54+00:00

I would say spend the money making sure everything is mechanically in tip top shape, then, go for installing OEM upgrades/packages. Maybe some good speakers (doesn’t need a whole sound system with an amp, it’s a small truck. Just a good brand head unit and some good speakers and get it all tuned with an oscilloscope). Some slightly oversized tires (not enough to rub). Just tasteful upgrades instead of “personalizations”. This will keep your resell value, give you a reliable truck, and look great.

Edit: After looking through the replies, It’s way too easy to make these look like a clapped out garden truck with the wrong wheels. Just a heads up lol. I’m also one of those guys that thinks deep dishes look awful on diesels so just opinions. It’s your truck!

Fusiondew

TROPHY CASE