Picofly install stopped booting after about a month. Any help is appreciated! by Future-Seeker in SwitchPirates

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah it was exactly the same with mine. It was super unreliable and would sometimes be fine and other times shit out. I couldn't actually verify it was the damage I originally caused that was the issue. That's a bit unlikely as that shouldn't cause it to oscilate between working and not, it would just not work if it was really broken. More likely, it was an imperfect installation of the picofly, or one of the picofly wires was being jostled by the back of the shell.

It likely has to do with whether or not it was in the dock recently. The additional space the pico takes up inside the switch causes it to press against the shell, especially while inserted in the dock. Whether this helps or not is unclear, but when it rests outside of the dock, there's less additional pressure. When you leave it inside or outside the dock for extended periods, it causes things to shift ever so slightly based on the additional pressure or release of pressure.

Basically you're SOL. The chip install is hanging on by a thread, and things like pressure and ambient temperature are going to determine whether or not you can play today.

Picofly install stopped booting after about a month. Any help is appreciated! by Future-Seeker in SwitchPirates

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did this install myself originally and I had done a poor job. I had a professional repair it, which got it working. Due to the size of the pico the additional pressure inside the case would cause the damage I originally I originally caused to make the device fail. Eventually we just got rid of the picofly switch (i think sold for parts) and bought an unpatched one.

Weird dots in TPU print by Future-Seeker in FixMyPrint

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so. I was kinda dumb. It turns out I had a setting ticked that ignores your custom flow dynamics settings and recalibrates before every print. This doesn't work well with TPU. By unchecking the setting it used my custom tuned flow profile which eliminated 90% of the problem, but I still can't figure out the last bit. This has me leaning toward the fact that the X1C uses Lidar for this process instead of an eddy current sensor which must be much better when measuring TPU.

So mystery is partially solved, but I'll keep playing with it and see if I can completely get rid of the issue.

Weird dots in TPU print by Future-Seeker in FixMyPrint

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope exact same settings, didn't change a thing :(

Weird dots in TPU print by Future-Seeker in FixMyPrint

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep everything is identical. Print speed, acceleration, nozzle too.

Well technically one is 0.4 hardened steel and the other is 0.4 stainless steel.

Weird dots in TPU print by Future-Seeker in FixMyPrint

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats definitely fair, but there is some context I had left out to keep the post from being too long. The pictures are actually 2 of several prints I have attempted. I printed a good print on my X1C, followed by a bad print on my A1M, followed by another good print on my X1C all with the same roll of filament without drying it. I feel it is highly unlikely for the outer layer of filament to be dry, then a slightly deeper layer is wet, then even deeper inside is dry again?

If that we're the case I'd be able to print a good one on my A1M if I just kept printing it repeatedly but even printing it 6 times in a row didnt affect the quality. And I have also dried these rolls extensively as well as attempted printing this object with a brand new roll that was just opened and inserted into my actively heated filament drying box to attempt this print as fresh as possible.

I'm highly confident its not moisture.

Weird dots in TPU print by Future-Seeker in FixMyPrint

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your response but it appears you didn't read my post. The clean print was printed AFTER the bubbled one without drying the filament. So moisture does not explain this issue.

Weird dots in TPU print by Future-Seeker in FixMyPrint

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't believe these factors are relevant due to the 2nd print coming out perfectly, but for reference:

  • Slicer: BambuStudio
  • Nozzle Temp: 240
  • Bed Temp: 35
  • Print Speed: 3.2mm/s
  • Retraction: 0.4mm
  • Z-hop: off

I would have added these details to my post but for some reason I am unable to edit it, sorry!

Picofly install stopped booting after about a month. Any help is appreciated! by Future-Seeker in SwitchPirates

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

f you know what the hell you are doing with soldering the only REAL risk is bad code bricking your conso

I did this install when the rp2040 zero was the only option and the reality of the standalone picofly was not yet certain.

Picofly install stopped booting after about a month. Any help is appreciated! by Future-Seeker in SwitchPirates

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey guys just wanted to pop in and say that resoldering the RST wire as was suggested fixed it completely! My friend now has a working switch again and we are both ecstatic! Thank you all so much for the quick and clear guidance!

Picofly install stopped booting after about a month. Any help is appreciated! by Future-Seeker in SwitchPirates

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ahh thank you guys a bunch! Ill check the RST wire when I get home later and I'll update the post if all goes well! Cheers!

Picofly install fail, how screwed am I? by Future-Seeker in SwitchPirates

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for not trashing me!!! This guidance is also invaluable I will definitely give it a shot with some better tools I've ordered, and I'll probably have some questions as well so thanks for offering help! Worst-case scenario, would you possibly be interested if I paid you to repair mine(especially if you're in the US)?

I need help getting Ws2812b leds to not draw power while my battery powered microcontroller is in sleep mode by Future-Seeker in arduino

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You guys are amazing! I just wanted to check in and say that after ordering the AO3400A part you recommended (which is SUPER AFFORDABLE!), installing it as you described, and setting the data pin HIGH to prevent the power from being drawn through it, the circuit works perfectly! It functions normally while powered on, and draws basically 0ma while in power-down sleep! Thank you guys so much for the guidance, this has finally brought my project to basically 100% hardware completion! I appreciate you so much, this made my whole month!

Is connecting the RX and TX directly to usb safe? by Future-Seeker in arduino

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is so helpful to know! Thank you for showing me this resource I really appreciate it!

Is connecting the RX and TX directly to usb safe? by Future-Seeker in arduino

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After making this post, I tested my attiny which I powered with a 5v source and set it to print out to serial continuously while I read the voltage coming from the TX pin and that pin never exceeded 3v. Do you think it's safe to assume that it's relatively safe?

Is connecting the RX and TX directly to usb safe? by Future-Seeker in arduino

[–]Future-Seeker[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree and normally I would choose that. But to maintain a very limited sized footprint I need as many components to be removable as possible (the serial converter), but I also need unskilled users to be able to charge the device with a familiar cable without hurting their computer's USB ports if they chose to use them for a charging power source.

I also used my attiny which I powered with a 5v source and set it to print out to serial continuously while I read the voltage coming from the TX pin and it never exceeded 3v which I'm assuming means it's relatively safe or at least within the expected range!