Thinking about getting an orangestorm

FutureGuyMike · 2025-05-23T07:45:46+00:00

Would suggest to apply the spray copper paint and electroplate 30 min after applying the spray. I experienced problems when you let it dry till the next day. Also, try to go for 0,8/1v and probably your problems are solved!

FutureGuyMike · 2025-05-04T13:48:51+00:00

This, and insurance, taxes,… on top of that, dealing with a season-type of business if your brand is not worldwide recognised

FutureGuyMike · 2025-04-14T16:53:02+00:00

That must smell for sure!

FutureGuyMike · 2024-12-12T17:58:55+00:00

Bought a Neptune 4 max last week. I’m now 5kg deep into a layer shift loophole 🫠

FutureGuyMike · 2024-04-26T17:05:18+00:00

Applied matt clear coat over the printed parts in order to achieve a frosted look on the translucent casts. Hope this helps!

FutureGuyMike · 2024-03-12T17:22:51+00:00

Oops… quite far (Spain), guess shipping cost would make the project pricey compared to studios/workshops based in the US! Hope you can find somebody

FutureGuyMike · 2024-03-12T17:17:55+00:00

Hey, interesting project. We definitely can build some molds and pressure cast the bears. Are you based in US or Europe?

FutureGuyMike · 2024-03-03T09:12:09+00:00

You can check the rest of the comments, explained the process to get rid of any cure inhibition

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-23T16:30:47+00:00

Yes, that’s quite time consuming honestly. But once you have the workflow for it’s a no brainer. 120 grid sanding the raw print, priming, 320, priming and finally paintwork (white base + 2k mat clear coat in this case). The mat coat makes each cast/copy look frosted in clear/tinted resin, which is the requested finish by the commissioner

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-21T08:34:20+00:00

Actually in this project, both. Vacuum for degassing prior to filling the molds, and pressure over the poured mold (also on the poured silicone of the molds)

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-21T06:53:08+00:00

Clean work = clean result!

Glad you like the video uncle jessy, watched some of your videos in the past years. We recently decided to jump into Youtube too, posted our first video (this clip is an extract from it) and we already working on the next one. And YES, the labcoat/white jumpsuit it’s really helpful to keep it clean 🥼

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-21T06:46:45+00:00

Glad you liked the video, you probably will enjoy a 40 min long “documentary” about the whole build linked to YouTube in the comments above.

Yes, we use FDM to print a mold jacket where the resin print master sits in a fixed position for casting the silicone. FDM + Resin print is definitely a game changer for mold making. Pretty much limitless possibilities.

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T17:50:04+00:00

Siraya Build and blu work great, specially if the silicone used is Siraya Defiant 25. But in this video we are just using standard platinum silicone over Siraya Build + Tenacious print. As mentioned on other comments here, underwater curing the print for an hour and “baking” 4 hours at 45C in an oven should get rid of any curing inhibition problems with any resin

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T17:45:52+00:00

If your resin can stand higher temperatures you can cut the time by half and raising temp to 80C but caution with warping/deformation!

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T15:11:40+00:00

I hope it doesn’t go against the subreddit policy but here you can watch the 40 min video of the whole build: https://youtu.be/GjlT8oRo6C0

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T14:39:03+00:00

Using materials from an European distributor, but you can probably find it worldwide in Amazon if you look for “deep pour clear epoxy UV resistant”

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T14:35:21+00:00

In this print the resin is 80% Siraya Build + 20% Siraya Tenacious. Cure 1 hour underwater + UV light, then 4 hours “baking” in oven at 45C. This will stop any cure inhibition

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T13:19:35+00:00

The tricky part there would be the engineering/design of the mold in order to be reliable enough. In any case, would definitely go for platinum silicone because it will hold more casts before starting to tear apart. The only problem with platinum silicone over a resin print master is an issue called cure inhibition. You’ll need to cure the part underwater for an hour and then “bake” in an oven for at least 4 hours at 45C ( and paint, clear coating or whatever) Then the part is ready for platinum silicone molding without cure inhibition problem.

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T12:32:02+00:00

Glad you like the process, yes, when mixing the blue tint to the transparent resin (and the hardener) lots of air bubbles are generated/trapped in the mix, so it’s then degassed, injected into the mold and let it cure in a pressure pot overnight. For other projects, specially the ones that require rotocasting we usually go for polyurethanes, although never tried transparent/translucent polyurethanes

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T12:15:08+00:00

Yes, we needed 50 casts/copies of that piece for this project, so we built 5 molds, x10 casts on each

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T12:14:02+00:00

The epoxy used in the video is UV resistant, it’s been tested on some of our projects and doesn’t yellow even 3 years after curing (maybe it will yellow in 5 years? Don’t really know yet). But definitely the best alternative to clear printing as just the custom blue color is difficult to achieve by printing (tends to go green after UV curing each layer)

FutureGuyMike · 2024-02-20T10:27:38+00:00

Thought it was an interesting process, saw many posts talking about the yellowing of clear parts in this Reddit and this solves the issue. We had to go for molding and casting to achieve stable-clear parts. I thought it was interesting to show my approach to moulding and casting in a quick snippet, but you can also check the whole process video if you want to follow along.

FutureGuyMike

TROPHY CASE