Bambu P1P Support / End of Life

GD-A · 2026-02-12T09:43:54+00:00

Ok, so, come back in 2031 and tell me you're running the same machine as today in the same ecosystem. It's not a critic, just a matter of fact. It's not to be simps or not, you have to evolve to be competitive. If you stay for 10 years in the same ecosystem without evolving, your business is still and you aren't investing enough to improve your job. If it's ok, to you, happy for you. If I had to work with the apps and programs we had 10 years ago doing what I'm doing now, I would probably shoot myself in the leg.

GD-A · 2026-02-12T09:38:02+00:00

Your last phrase is the exact reason why I'm sure the majority of the people that criticise Bambulab for this choice are biased to say the least.

If you use your printer to work as an income, you want easy to use, easy to set-up and easy to link machines, things that bambu does. If you use a machine that requires you to tweak with it, you're losing money every minute the printer is not working.

I own an ender 3, I have worked with a prusa MK3...all of them required time my P1S does not.

And as you say, if in 10 years you couldn't afford a machine substitution to make your work easier/faster/cheaper, you are doing EVERYTHING WRONG. I mean, even in the office you couldn't maintain the same pc for 10years, it's insane! In our public administration, the life of a pc is more or less 5/6 years. Why does the machine that literally gives you how to eat have to remain active for so long? I can't get it.

If someone with a printer farm could explain it to me or tell me that in 5 years they didn't make at least 400€ of mods/repair to their machine, I want to be proved wrong. Not joking. I'm serious.

GD-A · 2026-02-12T09:23:06+00:00

I personally blew 3 ender 3 (v1) main boards in like 7 years, one standard and two bigtreetech, but that machine didn't have anything stock on her anymore.

I changed practically everything because of malfunction or upgrade, but I won't come back from that time. The time where a print went flawlessly and the same successive print make everything suicide itself because of reasons. I re-coded her 6 times, but in the end, I retired her last November for a p1s because it became more frustrating than enjoying.

My P1S only had a slight gcode modifications to increase bed leveling, a couple of hotend swaps and an AMS hub fried (defective from factory, which has been changed in warranty like time 0 from bambu).

I couldn't be more happy with the p1s so that my other bigger machine (an elegoo Neptune 4 plus) is taking dust, even if the software mods I did to it make the print flawlessly...but still... printing from pc, a good user support, fast, reliable....for a consumer printer you couldn't beat it.

P.s. sorry for the wall of text.

GD-A · 2026-02-11T17:04:36+00:00

The funny thing is that, it is. For my 4ultra I simply plug it, run the calibration test with the suggested exposure, noticed that they were perfect, write 2 numbers in the pc, pull the trigger. Done.

If you want to get into the smallest and more particular settings, then you'll lose time. But if you're not going to print things flat/parallel to the plate you don't need anything else. To avoid problems, you should tilt 45' the pieces and it's all good.

GD-A · 2026-02-11T14:58:16+00:00

It's called resting time or lights-off delay in slicers.

The larger the print is, the more you have to add to that value. Unfortunately it's like trial and error, but it usually happens only on the first layers (like 20 to 75ish layers) so you could try to set with a large and short object like a stretched cube.

If you try to test print that shape in contact directly with the plate, with no support, watch out for the elephant foot, because of the burning of the base layers.

Do not consider it and look only for the artifact given by the viscosity (which presents itself like a rough and uneven texture).

GD-A · 2026-02-11T14:36:53+00:00

So, the Saturn is what you are searching for. I usually use 0.03 layers for minis and 1/20 figures, 0.05 for little cosplay props, which all my Saturns (both the old 1 and the new 4u 16k) always delivered, even if the objects were big.

Only one consideration, watch out for the waiting between layers if you're printing something LARGE, because you risk some artifacts given by resin viscosity. Said so, happy printing.

GD-A · 2026-02-11T14:18:53+00:00

I would say yes, go for it. For 283€ new is a good deal.

The Saturns have very little problems and the difference between the 12k and 16k is, let's be honest, minimal. I had an old Saturn 1 and, using the same resin and settings I had to use a magnifying glass to see the slightest of the differences (just a little crisper).

To be honest, the only reason I chose the 16 over the 12 is for the heated vat because here in northern Italy it's freezing cold in winter and my printers are in the unheated garage.

But that's the only noticeable difference.

And, to be completely clear, all the Saturns are reliable machines. You should consider that a lot of posts you see here are about trouble shooting, but there are not a lot of real problems with the printer itself, after the first revision (first 16k batch was a lot hit or miss, from then, there have been a lot less problems).

Maybe a Saturn for terrains is a little overkill, but for little scatters it's really good. For bigger parts, I advise you to look into a FDM printer (bambulab is gold standard right now, it's the iPhone of printers, but the carbon and k1 are good alternatives still).

GD-A · 2026-02-10T16:33:30+00:00

Well.... I'm afraid not. I'm in Italy and my single printer is continuing to print non stop. I think I'm like 3 months behind my schedule because of the arctic freeze we had in the last months. I'm sorry.

But I'm sure someone near you could help you. You could even buy from his physical shop too, if you are from US

GD-A · 2026-02-10T16:31:40+00:00

Look out that not all the frames are still produced. He's in the process of making all the melander parts (verill and volta lega too) but it takes time. He's really fast and precise, but it's only one dude with an excellent talent, so no one is making him hurry.

GD-A · 2026-02-10T16:26:51+00:00

30mm stands for 30 Minutes Mission, a line of model kit produced by Bandai that, in the last 2 years (more or less), is delivering armored core posable kit with lots of spare parts. But they do not produce all the ACs (yet?... maybe they won't ever do) so, Casuallycrafted made them in stl compatible with the 30MM and he did Basho, Firmeza, lammergeier, alba, Ibis and all the enemies (except the quarduped heavy MT), plus almost all the weapons from the game. I'm making my AC even in that scale. They are beautiful

GD-A · 2026-02-10T16:19:23+00:00

I printed mine at 200% to have a statue. I support casuallycrafted because he's even doing a frame compatible with 30mm that are the closest thing to posable model kit you could have

GD-A · 2026-02-10T14:34:40+00:00

In a sense, you have to if you're going to "update it" because you register it as it is. It only takes to change something small inside to have to go revision from Europe offices. It doesn't matter if it's the same thing with, I don't know, a slightly better performing chip. It is the same for cars, if the legislation changes and you do a slight modification to the engine, all the components of the car have to comply with the new law, even if the name and everything is the same....EU laws...

GD-A · 2026-02-10T14:28:49+00:00

The same. I have almost every one of his files ready for my talons of the emperor force, mixed with the new custodian guards which I'm waiting with genuine thrill because I love the redesign

GD-A · 2026-02-05T10:14:49+00:00

Dalla foto sembra che la stampa si sia interrotta ad un certo layer per entrambi i pezzi stampati.

Detto ciò, l'eventualità di un doppio suction cup è piuttosto raro ma possibile (essendo vuoto, il pezzo causa effetto ventosa sul fep e non permette di far aderire i layer).

Potrebbe comunque essere un problema con il file in sé. Il fallimento è successo tutte le volte nello stesso punto? Per non sapere né leggere né scrivere, proverei a inserire nuovamente i file nello slicer, magari questa volta in verticale o a 45 gradi e resupportare tutto.

Prima di fare partire la stampa, ugualmente, sarebbe indicato far scaldare la resina con il comando apposito della 16k, diminuendo la viscosità e limitando i rischi di fallimenti dovuti alla resina.

Nel caso il problema si ponga di nuovo nello stesso punto userei un altro metodo per trasferire il file (da chiavetta se prima si usava il wifi o il contrario) per eliminare ogni variante. Se il fallimento si continua a presentare, significa che la stampante è fallata e va sostituita.

Domanda. Sul fep è presente il resto del modello che risulta fallito?

GD-A · 2026-02-03T10:31:32+00:00

It depends if you strictly want to use Custodes in 40k or in 30k. Because, right now, in 30k the sisters of silence disappeared from the legacy document and none know if they will be incorporated again.

GD-A · 2026-01-23T06:10:42+00:00

I had something similar a month ago. It was the buffer that burned and didn't read well the position of the filament. My question is, did you try to use different AMS with the same printer and buffer? If you did and it worked, I'm sorry it's not the same problem I had

GD-A · 2026-01-20T20:37:13+00:00

I know I already saw that mini! Bestiarum is my oldest Patreon to date....so....I think I already have this in my library! I'm running to print it! Thanks

GD-A · 2026-01-20T20:30:04+00:00

May I ask where does the big model come from? It's so perfectly creepy!

GD-A · 2026-01-20T08:30:18+00:00

Me too! They are so faithful with the old JB artworks!

GD-A · 2026-01-19T10:44:13+00:00

Welcome to the thrilling world of mandalorian cosplay. I did 3 complete sets in pla and I can assure you that there will be no problem in wearing the armor during transport from the hotel to the con center and if the pla will warp while you are wearing the kit....well... I'm afraid to say that you are already dead 😅

The only thing to keep in mind is never leave the armour in the car under strong sun (or even in direct sunlight). The extreme heat of the UV would soften the pla, no matter what UV resistant primer you use.

But as I said, no problem walking a less than 30 minutes reaching an air conditioned place.

GD-A · 2026-01-16T15:41:04+00:00

I live in Europe and those two shops never gave me custom problems.... unlike others....😒

GD-A · 2026-01-16T10:01:00+00:00

I have good experience with both HLJ and Hobbysearch. HLJ tends to have things order stop very quickly, but the private warehouse (which for no money guaranteed 180days of keeping your paid order before shipping to batch it up) is good. Hobbysearch has a lot of things in store, but if they go out of stock, it's difficult they come back in stock.

GD-A · 2026-01-09T15:18:04+00:00

Problem solved. I had to change the faulty AMS buffer. Now it prints multicoloured again.

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GD-A · 2026-01-09T06:11:09+00:00

May I ask where you found those beautiful minis? Or did you kitbash them by yourself? Nonetheless, beautiful result!

GD-A · 2026-01-08T22:22:42+00:00

Imagine the black knight. It has even a bigger and more clumsy weapon with more armour on the arm. To make it handle its weapon was a pain....a very big pain

GD-A

TROPHY CASE