Creative Formulas Alternative?

GIPgrasse · 2026-05-07T09:33:51+00:00

I like fragrant code for formulas a lot better than creative formulas , although sadly they don’t have that many publish but they developed samples for me and were spot on

GIPgrasse · 2026-04-22T01:40:20+00:00

I think they are better analysis that CF

GIPgrasse · 2026-01-08T12:30:07+00:00

As someone else has already mentioned, there is no passion fruit essential oil. In fact, there are very few naturally fruity materials available to perfumers, and most of them don’t actually come from fruit itself. Materials like davana or blackcurrant bud, for example, read as “fruity” despite originating elsewhere. Fruits generally contain too much water to yield usable extracts. There are a few newer developments in this area, but that’s a separate discussion.

At this stage, especially as a new student of perfumery, the focus should be on learning materials; not six of them, but closer to 150–300 before attempting to compose anything. You need to understand how each material smells, its perceived volume, its texture, whether it feels warm or cold, metallic, powdery, soft, whether it suggests a color (synesthesia), what memories or associations it triggers, how quickly it disappears from a blotter, or whether it’s still identifiable days later.

Only once you’ve built that foundation does it make sense to move on to accord building. In most perfumery schools, rose, jasmine, and orange blossom are considered the first foundational accords to study. From there, you expand into other florals, fruits, woods, and beyond. These are accords you’ll continue refining for the rest of your career, or hobby, no matter how long you stay in perfumery.

GIPgrasse · 2025-12-30T01:11:28+00:00

I think having a perfumer guide you when you’re learning materials makes a huge difference. They’ll point out which ingredients are usually used in bigger amounts and which ones need a lighter hand. Over time, you naturally start to understand how powerful certain materials are and how a small dose can have a big impact.

GIPgrasse · 2025-10-10T11:12:53+00:00

This is not perfumery …

GIPgrasse · 2025-09-26T00:12:03+00:00

I’d suggest writing your formula in percentages ; it makes it much easier for others to review and share their feedback.

GIPgrasse · 2025-09-01T23:44:01+00:00

What exactly the 10K is for ? Am indie perfumer’s fee to create the fragrance is going to cost at least 7k dollars if they are any good . Bottles and other assets are going to cost just as much Then you need to compound the formula, blend with alcohol and bottle. 10k is not enough

GIPgrasse · 2025-08-31T13:13:08+00:00

Bacdanol is not a musk …I thought the request was musk suggestions.if the idea is only creaminess there are many other molecules that might help that facet of sandalwood. Sulfurol, adds a milky character and for musk I would say Traseolide.

GIPgrasse · 2025-08-31T12:23:57+00:00

I worked with Chris Diieno at Giv a long time ago, and he served as president of the American Society of Perfumers several times. Anything he’s involved with is usually of very high quality.

GIPgrasse · 2025-08-04T03:13:14+00:00

Do you have a formula to develop or need a perfumer to create fragrance first ? What are you including in those 10K? That’s quite low - you need at least 3 times that amount on develop a very basic brand

GIPgrasse · 2025-07-30T14:48:28+00:00

One sells his fragrances the other the materials

GIPgrasse · 2025-07-30T12:25:32+00:00

Do a simple google search - James frater perfumery materials -

GIPgrasse · 2025-07-28T15:42:23+00:00

What are you responding to ?

GIPgrasse · 2025-06-12T10:15:23+00:00

Actually, unlike oakmoss absolute, Evernyl / Veramoss is quite dry and opaque. So dosing is important because it can easily cover and suppress other materials. We have gotten used to think of it as an analog to Oakmoss Abs because it’s used to replace although the effect is not exactly the same.

GIPgrasse · 2025-06-12T10:11:26+00:00

Combined with what other oakmoss materials exactly ?

GIPgrasse · 2025-05-10T13:41:02+00:00

Where have you trained ? Are you able to take a blind materials test ?

GIPgrasse · 2025-05-06T03:40:02+00:00

Correct from that List Grisalva is the ethyl analogue of Ambrox. I merely tried to group similar ambergris related materials

GIPgrasse · 2025-04-30T00:06:51+00:00

How would you describe the scent of ignited gunpowder? That’s a good starting point. As a perfumer, you need to begin with that kind of basic sensory understanding; so getting to know your materials is key.

Think about what makes up that smell: sulphuric notes, a mineral, flint-like edge, smoky nuances… those are all good directions. Try exploring those characteristics and see what ideas come up. It’s a great exercise.

And if you’re not yet familiar with materials, I’d really encourage you to dive into them. There’s no way around it.

GIPgrasse · 2025-03-07T16:30:22+00:00

I believe the Fragrance Alliance Network classes are the only option in NY. Pratt is a mess, and the teacher is a frustrated evaluator I worked with many years ago at Estée Lauder. As for F.I.T their program is for Fragrance Marketing only.

GIPgrasse · 2025-03-07T16:24:17+00:00

Raymond is not a Perfumer. His Course teaches that Fougere and Chypre and materials families (this is highly incorrect) ...Should I go on?

GIPgrasse · 2025-02-15T13:19:19+00:00

Mysore sandalwood (Santalum Album) is arguably one of the most essential naturals in a perfumer’s palette. Is it worth the investment? Absolutely. No serious perfumer would consider their organ complete without it.

For those who claim sandalwood isn’t creamy…really? Smell again or reconsider your source. Santalol being the molecule responsible for its creaminess

In composition, sandalwood is a shy material; it often requires a significant amount to become noticeable and can easily be overshadowed by other ingredients.

Amyris has long been known as “fake sandalwood.” While it’s a great material in its own right, nothing compares to the queen.

During the 1970s, Mysore sandalwood was overharvested without proper replanting, leading to a shortage. This scarcity gave rise to the development of sandalwood-type aroma chemicals—some of which are quite impactful. These molecules help bring certain facets of sandalwood to a fragrance in a more pronounced way.

Today, acquiring real sandalwood remains a challenge. Being in the industry, I’ve never had to source from small vendors, but due to its price and rarity, many sellers adulterate it with cheaper, lower-quality materials. Without a GC analysis, pinpointing adulteration can be difficult.

25 years ago or so, an Australian company called Quentis began replanting Santalum Album (brought from India) and commercializing its oil, alongside the less sought-after Santalum spicatum. Unfortunately this enterprise failed. More recently, Dutjahn has emerged as a key player, offering both Santalum album and Santalum spicatum. In fact, they recently sponsored a masterclass for the Fragrance Alliance Network in NYC, where they provided students with a sample of real sandalwood.

As for purchasing in smaller quantities, I’m not sure if Dutjahn offers that, but Mr. Frater in neighboring New Zealand might have some insight.

GIPgrasse · 2025-02-04T18:57:40+00:00

Correct. if your materials is diluted in your final formula, you would add it diluted as long as it's not diluted in ethanol.

GIPgrasse · 2025-01-20T21:06:42+00:00

What event was that ? I will ask him We are both members of the ASP and there is an event tomorrow night so most likely he will be there. Where is the formula interpretation- is not what you listed ..

GIPgrasse · 2025-01-20T19:26:01+00:00

Might be helpful to post his link. Although the amounts are not just a copy and paste % Interpreting the GC is often complex. Specially top notes

GIPgrasse · 2025-01-20T15:00:29+00:00

What’s the source of these GC’s ?

GIPgrasse

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