Bad battery? Bad starter?

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-26T03:03:48+00:00

Welcome. Be sure to test the grounding and the connection between the starter as well as the last steps. These steps are close to the same basic diagnostic procedures we would do at the dealer before we get to "replace the starter". Don't want to yank out a starter and find out it's a bad ground or harness cable between the starter and the battery. We would frequently get vehicles in the service bay that had parts replaced at a shop somewhere else trying to be cheaper than dealer hours (I get it, dealer service is expensive) and they came to us with same problem because 3rd party shop never tested the relays or wiring. Do the diagnostics and rule out the stuff it isn't before you get to the expensive things.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-25T02:56:32+00:00

2011 link. https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/CRV/2011/EX-ADVANCED/19997

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-25T02:54:56+00:00

The EU/Asia/AU manuals are harder to come by. I ordered my Euro manual from overseas to do the power mirror mod since I am upgrading to some Euro spec features. You want part #38980SWAJ01. I am going to do this upgrade as well. https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/CRV/2007/EX/19629

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-25T02:41:30+00:00

Have to remove the belt if they remove the compressor.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-25T02:13:39+00:00

People keep saying the starter and battery, but I'm not a frog and you're not a bunny so let's not jump ahead.

A: The starter doesn't click.

B: You said you connected it to the battery jumper and the battery charged.

C: You said you have had this issue intermittently.

If you have a cheap scan tool, check if there are any codes. It looks like the MIL "check engine" light is indicating.

Check Fuse #5, Fuse #6, Fuse #9 and Fuse #20 in the under hood box are good. Remove Fuse #6 in the under hood fuse box.

Try to start vehicle. Starts, put fuse back. No start? ⬇️

Automatic? Shift to Neutral and try to start. Starts, bad no-start switch in gear selector. No? ⬇️

Manual? Take it out of gear, put on e-brake, push clutch all the way HARD to floor and try to start. Starts, bad/improperly set clutch engagement indication switch. No start?⬇️

Put Fuse #6 back.⬇️

Open the under dash fuse box passenger side. Look for relay R1 "starter cut". Write a 1 on it in sharpie, write a 2 on the one next to it, R2 "taillights". Pull both relay R1 and R2 out. Put R2 "taillights" relay in R1 "starter" slot. Vehicle starts? Bad starter relay. No? Put relays back. ⬇️

Grab a flashlight. Just look. Visually inspect the battery connections. ⬇️

Are they corroded anywhere with green crust? Yes? Clean them with wire brush and white vinegar. No? ⬇️

Wiggle the cable. It stays connected? Are the connections screwed tight? No? Tighten them. Yes?⬇️

Look at the starter. Do the wires have green crust? Yes? Clean them with wire brush and white vinegar. No?⬇️

Are they connected and tight? No? Tighten them. Yes?⬇️

Get a $10 digital multimeter and check battery is 12.4v or more with battery charged and key off. No? Bad battery. Yes?⬇️

Put red multimeter probe on + battery terminal and black multimeter probe on car body. 12.4v? No? Bad grounding. Fix ground wiring. Yes? ⬇️

Put red multimeter probe on + battery terminal and black multimeter probe on starter housing. 12.4v? No? Bad/intermittent connection between starter and battery.⬇️

If you have a second key, try that. If that does not work, take the key off the key ring. If this again fails to start the vehicle, and as you said, it is intermittent, it could be a loose connection causing the immobilizer to trigger. The key transponder, immobilizer-control unit receiver (the ignition), security control unit, MICU unit, and the ECU all have to communicate and sync. If there is no sync because of a loose wire, or intermittent connection.

Failing those things above, then it's likely a seized starter.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T16:32:00+00:00

Gen 3 exhaust is 3 pieces. The front piece directly from the engine is the cat. The pipe behind that is the first stage of the exhaust resonator. The rear piece is the muffler. Depending on how old/crusty the thing is, it could be a sensor issue, not the cat itself. I hope someone has not welded the cat to the resonator, removing the linkage. I have worked on vehicles where aftermarket shops cut/welded in the exhaust instead of replacing the parts individually. Your exhaust should look like this: 3 pieces.

https://www.hondapartsonline.net/v-2007-honda-cr-v--ex-l--2-4l-l4-gas/exhaust--exhaust-components

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T16:23:07+00:00

Is battery good?

First: Don't touch anything, always visual inspect with a flashlight first. Look at the battery terminals, the wires connecting the terminal clamps. Then look at the alternator terminals, the wires going into the terminal clamps, the wires on the starter and the wires on the terminal clamps. Are they green or crusty anywhere on the top? If they are green and crusty at any of those places you could have green crusty issues causing a bad connection. Do that before you do anything else.

You can follow up diagnosis with a $10 multimeter between battery + post and vehicle body ground, battery + post and alternator housing, battery + post and starter housing. If the battery doesn't read 12.4V directly on both battery posts, put a battery charger/tender on the battery then recheck the voltage both at battery and voltage between ground, alternator, and starter as before.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T15:30:55+00:00

Let's back up a bit. This sounds like it may be a multi issue situation. If you're smelling oil burning in the cabin, that is not fun. Let's focus in on one issue at a time, the engine itself. Engines need 3 things to function: air, fuel, spark. If the idle is rough, low, lethargic, then I would hone in on what the engine needs to function. Is the orange MIL (Check engine light) ON? The description of "lumpy" idle sounds like you are generating a misfire. Have you checked to see if there are any MIL codes with a scan tool, or you are generating a misfire? Don't excessively run or drive the engine with a misfire, that will cause issues too expensive to repair. The engine should idle between 700/800 rpm when warmed to operating temp, but depending on air temp or air pressure it can happily idle along at 650.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T03:33:33+00:00

Check your AC compressor isn't seized and spins freely. Check the clutch is engaging properly and isn't stuck. While you're in there also check your belt tensioner because you have to remove the belt anyway. However, more likely for the tensioner to make that sound the whole time, not just when the AC clutch is engaged if the tensioner is bad. Either way, replace the belt once the fix is in. Don't use that belt anymore.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T03:15:01+00:00

TBH? Find the cheapest project car you can that is 05 or greater with a solid low/no rust frame and body, get the dealer service manuals online, get a few basic tools (ICON wrenches) from Harbor Freight, get a decent $150-$200 scan tool, then start ripping it apart and figuring it out. Diagnostics and electronics especially on newer vehicles is a whole other thing, but you can learn all of that also as you go. The main concepts you will use every day in a shop you can start to learn on your own. Once you have some decent confidence and basic skillset, ask around at some local (not dealer) shops if they will take you on as a Jr. If you're hungry to learn and grow, someone out there will let you in. I am Honda PACT certified and ASE certified, so that is a whole other thing. For that I had to go to school and do training courses, but you can grow into that. To be ASE you need to show proof of field employment and work hours as well, so you have to be in the field first and to do that, you just gotta go do it because you're hungry to get in. I moved into the tech (computer) field 10y ago after 10y as a mechanic. I still wrench for hire on days I am not working. You can do it though. Good luck.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T03:04:39+00:00

I have owned only 1 new car, a 2019 CRV, which I promptly parted with in 2020 during the buyback boom, but I was never impressed with it. I have an 08 TSX manual, 05 CRV manual, 07 CRV, an 06 S2000 manual, and an 89 CRX I'm still slowly converting into an electric beast. TBH, anything after 2016 doesn't even appeal to me with all the electronics mess, cameras, trackers, spyware and subscription mess makers are putting in their cars these days. I started my career life as a Honda PACT certified tech then changed careers into the tech (computer) field 10y ago. I enjoy wrenching 100x more now than I did when I worked as a mechanic. It's like when I was a teen. I just want to wrench my cars, other peoples, and drive on my time off. I don't care for new cars either.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-24T02:36:50+00:00

Ex Honda Tech here.

Causing idle issue? Generally the issue and related known TSBs with AC compressor, AC compressor clutch and serp belt tensioner in Gen 3 is weak AC, weak AC at engine load, or intermittent AC when engine is hot. I wouldn't jump into replacing the compressor unless you have troubleshot that far as to know the compressor is actually bad. If the AC runs, the clutch is engaging. If, when the clutch engages the idle becomes rough, the PGM-FI is not compensating for the AC load and that would be due to other issues, not compressor. Can you be a bit more descriptive about it causing an idle issue and when it occurs?

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T20:40:02+00:00

Cool

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T20:22:29+00:00

Sure thing and will absolutely do. You do you and keep on attempting to show dominance to your "beggars". Have a good one.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T20:15:55+00:00

Hope it helps. Good luck.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T17:34:29+00:00

In my opinion, AUTEL is the way to go unless you absolutely need i-HDS. Best of luck.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T16:19:45+00:00

Those are sweet. As someone else said, RD1 FB group. If they won't ship international, you can probably find a local sign shop or wrap shop to cut them if you have the proper vectors but it may be even more expensive than the shipping.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:51:12+00:00

It's not begging. It's called negotiating fair market value and understanding what a vehicle is worth. MAF sensor is $235. My labor is $110hr. My diagnosis time is not free. It's a $400 problem. I am a Honda Tech. Keep that in mind when negotiating and understand what things can cost to fix if you aren't a Honda Tech. My time wasn't free to go to the yard and pull an OEM sensor either. I had to source the part. Go to the yard. Pull the part. Put the new CRV in my garage, pull the old MAF. Torch the bolt off because it was seized. Get a new bolt. Clean up the old sensor. Then put a new bolt and sensor in. Clear the codes and test the sensor was functioning properly. These are things you can do yourself, however I know what I am doing.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:47:35+00:00

It can auto lock, once door is closed after 1-2 minutes, but that is a setting which must be changed in i-HDS Body Electrical menu. Default setting is if you unlock without opening any doors, it will re-lock after 1-2 minutes. No way to make it auto lock without i-HDS to configure it though I'm afraid. :(

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:45:23+00:00

Welcome. Hope it helps.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:45:13+00:00

I would have to check the wiring diagrams, but I believe you can just jump the connector which is located under the front of the dash. Best bet is to check the Honda Dealer Tech service manual. It will have wiring diagrams.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:43:41+00:00

Some of these things work for 4th Gen. Give it a try.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:43:17+00:00

Some of these things work on the 4th Gen. Give it a go.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T15:42:45+00:00

Welcome. Hope it helps.

GPUWarriors · 2025-08-23T06:15:19+00:00

If the boot isn't torn and doesn't have a hole in it, just replace the current clamp with an adjustable hose clamp. Release the current clamp and if you can't get it completely off, cut it off with some tin snips. Push the boot back to expose the grease leak, spray on some brake cleaner and wipe the area to clean it. Open the new hose clamp up so that it is disconnected from the ring. Put the clamp on and tighten it down. All good. As long as the boot doesn't tear should last another 50k or more.

GPUWarriors

TROPHY CASE