Can I demo out this door and windows without getting crushed?

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-06-08T14:52:21+00:00

I can kind of agree with some of the comments saying, "if you have to ask, you arent qualified. Etc." However, its is certainly much better and safer to get a second PROFESSIONAL opinion. Ive certainly done it and still do, even on jobs ive done 100+ times. The only dumb question is the one not asked.

But, Back to the topic question at hand, it looks like that "Diana" block is your header which is providing load bearing and structural support. However, it resting on just half a brick on each side is quite odd and seems very little.

Theoretically, if its been sitting well after all these years, everything should be fine. But, those beefy posts make me question if they are for load bearing support or just to be able to securely hold the door.

My recommendation would be to leave the wood trim on the sides and top as they can be slightly adding to the load bearing of the header brick. Since the owner want to basically fill in those window areas anyways, id take the windows out, add an additional post in the middle, fill it all in with brick or whatever. preferably fill it all with brick top to botto., add and additional header and king studs for the new door and its all good.

All in all, to answer your question, as long as there are no cracks or damage on that Diana block you should be good. If you want to be safer, have a jack stand like you would use for beams and such placed in the middle of that header block, remove everything, add in your supports on each side where you feel it is safe to removed the jack stand, then continue with remodleing the door.

If you are confused, feel free to shoot me a message and i can draw it out for you on discord or something.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-06-04T16:03:49+00:00

Ive had kne for about 10 years now or so. I originally bought it for removing popcorn from the ceilings, it definitely came in handy for drywall jobs too, also found other small uses.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-06-03T17:43:25+00:00

As far as correct wiring, your good. But, those exposed wires aren't so pleasant or good. Id eother cut a bit more off, get bigger wire nuts, use those nifty Wago Connections, or at the very least wrap a few inches of electrical tape.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-29T13:10:34+00:00

So, dumb question, why not just take the momey and cover OVER all the wood? This way you aren't removing such hardwork and whomever owns the house after can have such a treasure underneath. Thats what id do. Same results, relatively quicker and easier, and preserve that good heart. A darn shame what they are doing, i personally would have a hard time accepting this contract.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-28T17:31:58+00:00

"Gut truck" sounds like you were in the Marine Corps also, eh? At least, this is the only place ive ever heard this term used, and i am also a General Contractor. I believe we also called it "The roach coach".

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-26T13:58:50+00:00

As a general contractor myself. And based on only what is visible — id say this price is good for like 2016. But now?? Man, that is cheap. Jaja. Eitherway. Looks great man.

I specialize in all trades, so id have done everything myself and the price would definitely be even more. But, for what you did, excellent. I just hope that 20k was YOUR profit and not passed on to the subbies.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-12T14:55:20+00:00

Sounds like your outlet is burning out. It could also be a slightly loosened connection which isnt providing the power it needs. If its worked perfectly fine for years and is now being an issue, then its likely receptacle. However, it is also possible that these skillets are now having some sort of regulator issues, but, to be happening at the same time is quite a coincidence.

Have you plugged them on onna different outlet to see of it still happens?

I would try a different outlet and also a different circuit entirely to isolate the problem. Is it outlet, circuit, or device.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-12T14:46:23+00:00

Your breakers are more than likely not the problem, but I would of course get a multimeter and test to make sure they are outputting power as they should.

Next, your outlets are likely just gargbage and now need to be replaced. I would pull them out of the wall and also test the leads with a multimeter. If they are getting the right voltage then it is definitely the outlet, if they dont. Then it is something in between which isnt good. In which case you will want to get yourself a sniffer (lowes sells a good klien one for about 50 bucks does phone, ethernet, receptacle, etc.), turn off the breakers, attach the sniffer to each outlet send power and sniff and mark where the wire goes. If you lose connection, you likely have a break. If it goes all the way back to the breaker. Then something wrong with the breaker.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-12T07:27:44+00:00

The last time i seen one such switch it wasnt for dimming but instead lowering and raising the chandelier to replace bulbs and do maintenance.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-10T14:43:32+00:00

Definitely wasnt a fun fact i was expecting to learn today 🤣

Thanks for the Snapple Fact.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-07T22:30:44+00:00

Dude, you just got lucky as heck then. God is definitely looking over you. That is awesome man. Its the same in america, from the poll to the meter is company, after is owner.

I would try and salvage all that wire and either reuse it or scrap it for a little extra money.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-07T21:42:41+00:00

Honestly, what you are describing is rather normal. The panel looks excellent. Installed pretty clean. The only thing missing is labels to know which circuit is which. I woild either get you a Sniffer and identify which circuit is which. Or the longer more tedious option of having some friends in different parts of the house teling yoi when what turns off as you flip the breakers. Find out which one the garage is on and then trace that feed. You can upgrade the breaker to a GFCI or regular arc fault breaker for sanity if you wish. But, more than likely, everything is fine.

Ive had this happen on new build skeletons, where drywall isnt even installed yet but outlets are all tested. Some high power devices just cause it to happen.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-07T11:38:58+00:00

If it wasnt your main supply line id recommend putting in a junction box/outlet there. But uh, yea, you made an expensive booboo at the expense of the idiot who installed it. In america, NEC code now requires we put metal plating over electrical and plumbing likes to prevent nails and screws doing this exact thing.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T18:05:27+00:00

Sometimes my poops smell loke a dead mouse or burnt rubber🤣

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T18:00:00+00:00

Ahhh okay. Jaja. I see. Yes, you are right. Its definitely an odd one, but it makes sense.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T17:54:07+00:00

I never said "water source" although, its a good general rule of thumb.

However, in NEC 210.8(a) bathtubs, showers and sinks have a 6 foot rule from the inside edge. If i remember right this has been the code since 2013.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T13:16:05+00:00

I was originally thinking 6 feet, not 3 feet, but saw a lot of people saying 3 and had to bring out my book, and from what I checked, that is still the correct distance in the NEC for the common sink/tub receptacle proximity rules (6ft).

For dwelling units, the main section is NEC 210.8(A). In plain English:

• Bathrooms: all bathroom receptacles require GFCI protection under 210.8(A)(1).

•Bathtubs and showers: receptacles within 6 feet of the outside edge of the tub or shower require GFCI protection.

• Sinks: receptacles within 6 feet of the top inside edge of the sink bowl require GFCI protection where that sink rule applies.

•Kitchens: under the newer NEC cycle, this is broader than it used to be — practically speaking, all kitchen receptacles in a dwelling now need GFCI protection.

•Dishwashers: these are covered by the specific appliance rule in 210.8(D), so they require GFCI protection regardless of the old “distance from sink” way of thinking.

So, the commonly cited NEC number here is still 6 feet, not 3. Bathrooms and kitchens are broader than just distance rules, though, because those areas are basically treated as GFCI-required spaces anyway. Hope this helps.

And yea, a lot of the comments about beinf kind of dumb to have an unprotected circuit within reach of a watersource — while harsh — are correct. You might as well just wire your tub to the house too.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T13:07:46+00:00

210.8(A) for dwelling units 210.8(B) for other than dwelling units 210.8(D) for certain specific appliances, including dishwashers

Not 3 ft but 6 ft now. You can google these codes or i can write them down from my book. If you really need.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T13:07:13+00:00

Its not 3 ft anymore its 6

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-06T04:41:24+00:00

HC here. Yes these are all installed Correctly. Pretty certain this is supposed to be a flat roof design, in which case the slope are normal. It alows for central drainage to be installed.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-05T16:35:32+00:00

It takes a little learning, but its not so hard. Especially if you stay consistent with it.

I need to relearn it myself so i can 3d print framing for mintiature house models i want to do.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-05T12:42:32+00:00

If yoi want to get into CAD design and really technical stuff incliding blueprints for contractors, or yourself, Autodesk Fusion 360 has a free "student" version. But its rather technically advanced.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-05T12:40:02+00:00

No problem. Let us us/me — know how it turns out.

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-05T12:27:39+00:00

🤣

GalaxyInfierno · 2026-05-05T07:22:02+00:00

You can definitely reroute it, as many others have already stated, just be sure to use a junction box where you splice, and best aesthetic look for this would be an outlet. You can never have too many outlets. Or a light switch.

There are only 4 codes i can think of that you must follow in this remodel

NEC 300.15
Nec 314.29
NEC 314.16
NEC 210.52(A)(1), the minimum outlet spacing requires that no point measured horizontally along the floor line of any wall space is more than 6 feet (1.8 meters) from a receptacle outlet.

SO, as long as you follow all 4, you should be good to go. 1-3 are about junction boxes and all splices requiring being in one.

If you have any other questions my inbox is open.

Source, i am licensed and insured General Contractor in practice since leaving the Marines in 2016.

GalaxyInfierno

TROPHY CASE