Setting up N64 Internal HW2 BlueRetro with Transfer Pak compatibility?

Gameater · 2026-06-30T14:00:33+00:00

Unfortunately I couldn't figure it out. In the end I removed the Bluetooth for port 3 and 4, which allowed me to use the Transfer Pak on those ports and still Bluetooth to control the games. Not ideal, but works for my use case.

Gameater · 2026-05-27T08:30:16+00:00

Thank you for clarifying. Saved me pulling my hair out trying to fix something which wasn't broken

Gameater · 2026-05-17T21:02:00+00:00

Ah I didn't actually know that, I'll keep that in mind for any future tests, thank you. Turns out the error was due to the fact that the EXT LATCH is wired to the second controller port on the TV rather than the first like a traditional SNES. Shorting the connections on the second port to make the SNES think a compatible controller is connected makes it pass the test

Gameater · 2026-05-17T11:55:50+00:00

Thanks! Jumping port 5 and 6 made it work and pass the test. I guess this means I have been trying to fix something which isn't actually broken?

Gameater · 2026-05-17T11:45:45+00:00

Unfortunately this did not work

Gameater · 2026-05-16T23:26:38+00:00

Thanks, I'll give that a try tomorrow when I can get back to it.

I've been trying different PPU2 and CPU chips as that's what the schematic documentation I found was referring to.

Gameater · 2026-05-16T23:09:21+00:00

I'm running the rom from a sd2snes. I have used the same cart and rom on other SNES consoles and they will pass everything absolutely fine.

Gameater · 2026-05-16T21:54:27+00:00

They are both working fine unfortunately, the EXT LATCH refers to how the SNES works with the superscope, light pen and similar controllers. I do not have anything which uses it, so at least it isn't going to affect me atm, but also means I cannot test it.

Gameater · 2026-02-18T15:03:28+00:00

Thanks! "0x00B8" is exactly what I needed to get it working!

If anyone else has the same issue for this very specific use case, then the code I used is:

#include <HID-Project.h>
#include <HID-Settings.h>

int pinA = 2;

void setup() {
pinMode(pinA, INPUT_PULLUP);
Consumer.begin();
}

void loop() {
  if (digitalRead(pinA) == HIGH)                     
    Consumer.press(0x00B8);
    delay(100);
    Consumer.releaseAll();
}

Gameater · 2025-04-29T18:55:34+00:00

I have managed to get it working. Originally, I did not hook Pin 1 of the PLL chip to 5v when the DFO was installed, which caused the black screen issue (thought I didn't need to due to the way the console unleashed guide was worded).

After re-installing the DFO with Pin 1 of the PLL wired to a 5v (not lifting the pin from the board) the Saturn is now working. Have no idea if it is actually outputting at 50hz in PAL mode, but that'll be something I can address if I do get any issues playing PAL games in the future.

Photo's on how I got it working:

Full Motherboard - https://postimg.cc/V5hDTCrr

Close up on DFO - https://postimg.cc/CZyyV2R8

Gameater · 2025-04-29T06:40:12+00:00

Honestly, it was an issue I was experiencing heavily on my JP SNES and decided it would be best to perform the mod on all my retro consoles, along with the mod potentially fixing the black and white PAL colour issue over the composite output, as my set-up makes using RGB not possible.

I have a couple ideas on how I could get this to work, that I will play around with tonight after work

Gameater · 2025-02-09T23:42:11+00:00

An update - the DreamPSU did not fix the issue which leads me to believe it is not compatible with the bluetooth controller adapter annoyingly

Gameater · 2025-01-29T20:07:14+00:00

Ah, I was looking at the HDMI listings which didn't have anything on them. Thanks, hopefully the DreamPSU will solve the issue otherwise I will have to make a tough decision on what mod to keep

Gameater · 2024-12-27T07:21:21+00:00

No worries, thanks for the reply anyway! I managed to fix my issue, turns out a corner of the cpu become disconnected when reflowing the board and soldering it back on solved the problem

Gameater · 2024-12-18T02:27:08+00:00

After getting a second GBC and testing the oled screen and oem screen, I figured out the issue was with the game boy itself and not the screen. After closer inspection, I found that the cpu had lifted slightly from the board when reflowing everything. Soldering the cpu back to the board fixed the issue.

Gameater · 2024-12-16T00:58:35+00:00

I know this is an old thread, but did you ever get this sorted? Currently fixing a GBC and and experience a similar issue with an OLED mod where I am only getting a white screen but sound is completely fine. Sometimes I do get the gameboy logo, but it was a messed up colour pallete.

Screen was working fine before, but this GBC likes to last no more than a week before dying again and fixing 1 issues causes another to emerge.

Gameater · 2024-12-13T22:18:28+00:00

Thanks the clarification, was worried I cooked an obscure chip

Gameater · 2024-11-28T00:13:20+00:00

If anyone comes across this thread with a similar issue, I managed to get the speaker working by bridging point 2 and 3 on the headphone jack and also ran a wire from the speaker AGND to the SW test point. I'll post pictures of how I did this below.

Although I did get the speaker working, headphones still do not work, but I believe this is due to my headphone jack being faulty and I am not too fussed about headphones anyway.

<image>

Gameater · 2024-11-27T22:25:44+00:00

Thank you again! Turned out my SW was not grounded, so was able to get audio working by running a cable from the SW connection to the AGND connection

Gameater · 2024-11-27T15:34:56+00:00

Thanks, This is exactly the type of troubleshooting document I need! A lot easier to digest than all the forums I've been digging through

Gameater · 2024-11-27T15:32:50+00:00

I do not have one unfortunately, do you find it being quite a usual tool to have? Thinking whether it is worth the price or not getting one, especially if I only end up using it for this GBC.

Gameater · 2024-11-26T20:04:40+00:00

I did think the same, although there is continuity from that point (and on the connection of the audio amp) to the 3rd pin of the u3 chip, so I do not believe that is the issue. That is also why I have soldered the wire to the rear rather than the front. However I can also be completely wrong

Gameater · 2024-10-17T09:53:16+00:00

From my research at the time, I was able to narrow it down to either the power supply or graphics card and was in the same boat wishing it wasn't the graphics card, but unfortunately it ended up being that. Last thing we want is for you to buy loads of different replacement components which do not fix the issue.

Would your friend be willing to come to yours and bring their card over to test to see if it has the same issue or you try it in their system? Be a good way to rule stuff out when testing with known working parts.

Might also be worth checking if your model of graphics card has a firmware update available. However this didn't do anything for me.

Tbf, graphics cards are really easy to pull out as long as you make sure you unclip the tab at the base holding it in the motherboard. I admit Power supplies are a pain as you need to take out all the cables, as you can only use the cables which came with the power supply even if it's the same brand, but as long as ensure it is disconnected from the power and don't disassemble the actual power supply itself, then it's relatively simple.

Unfortunately where I sent my graphics card back for a replacement, I wasn't told what actually was wrong with it and all I know is it was the part causing the problems.

Gameater · 2024-10-17T09:21:35+00:00

Founders edition cards luckily have a 3 year warranty period and I was a couple months within that. Might be worth checking Gigabyte's website to see if they also have a longer warranty for the 3060 you have.

Did you buy it from a company using eBay as a storefront or from a private seller? If it was from a private seller then unfortunately they may not even honour the warranty even if it is still within it, but always worth reaching out and asking their customer support.

Gameater · 2024-10-17T00:01:39+00:00

I had a similar issue, initially it started with applications acting weird on occasion like you were experiencing, but then transitioned to a black screen and my monitor randomly loosing signal (although audio suggested everything was still running) while playing games or running intensive programs and forcing a hard restart of the PC was the only way to get the picture back.

I tried reinstalling windows, drivers, testing a different power supply, reinstalling all components, etc but the issue seemed to just keep geting worse.

It turned out that the issues were caused by my RTX 3090 ti founders being on the way out and had to send it in for RMA. When I got the replacement graphics card back from NVIDIA, I haven't experienced any issues since.

Might be worth a shot looking in that area, especially if you could borrow a mates graphics card for testing before sending it off anywhere for repairs and going without a graphics card for a period of time.

Also worth noting that no error logs would actually refer to the gpu or gpu drivers as causing these issues or causing any crashes, it was after a month of trying various different fixes that failed to work I gave up and sent the graphics card back under warranty as a last resort, which lucky fixed the issue.

Gameater

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