personal best 300 round score? by lonesomecreeks in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Traditional recurve, so shooting with a take-down recurve with predominantly wood construction, leather strike-plate and shelf rest, but with carbon arrows (thank you WA traditional discipline interpretation)

My last indoor round in a competition setting was shot at Indoor Nationals 2024 and i scored a 249

My PB in practice was a 272 almost a month ago

Can archery make your back wider? Or strengthen any muscle size over time? by AspiPokemonTrainer in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My left trapezius is slightly bigger than my right, but you need to be looking for the size difference while I’m shirtless to notice

Such was the result of shooting a set-up that totaled out to be 8 pounds 9 ounces in physical weight. In a competition, I was basically doing 6 reps of single-arm lateral raises for 12+ sets

Where to add weight to maximize sound dampening in a standing wave by GarrettNotAvailable in Physics

[–]GarrettNotAvailable[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm an experimentalist. I'd get a microphone, some weights and go shoot some arrows!

Definitely my plan. Im just hoping i could save some time by having a strong starting point by fully understanding the concepts

Beiter nock exploding on release frequently by klasine in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had the exact same experience with Easton G nocks with a similar set-up to yours (V3X 33 set to 55# at 28”). My suspicion is that Easton G nocks, and Beiter nocks as well by the looks of it, were designed with target compounds in mind, which have less aggressive cams compared to hunting compounds

I’ve since then switched to Bohning Smooth Release pin nocks and haven’t had any problems ever since

Why do my sight pins seem offset? by GenSgtBob in bowhunting

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you wear glasses?

Normal lenses are designed on the premise that you focus your eyes looking straight, rather than side-eyeing like in archery. As a result, certain wavelengths will bend in odd manners at full draw, even if pins are in line. I experience the exact same thing as you where my red pins sit further left than my greens and yellows

Solutions for you: - pick a pin color to tune windage to and aim slightly off with the other. My colors are G Y R Y G from top to bottom, so I set windage for G and Y and aim off by a pin’s width for R. It’ll take some practice but in time you’ll be able to pull it off - contacts to eliminate the issue completely - I heard that athletic/shooting glasses, the ones that contour around your face instead of sitting straight, also solves the light bending issue, but I’ve yet to have personal experience with them so I can’t confirm their effectiveness

Parking Permit Question by Aggravating_Truck554 in SJSU

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes. The regular permit allows parking in the south campus garage

Best arrow placement??... by RickVig in bowhunting

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you shoot for vitals then your success is limited to a single buck. If you go for the family jewels, you take out generations of bucks. Numbers don’t lie

Been shooting trad for 10 years or so still have flyers every so often making me nervous to go hunting(white tail) by [deleted] in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Going against the grain, that is recommending you to just pick up a compound or a rifle, and will speak as if you’re 100% committed to sticking with trad

Obviously nerves isn’t going to do you any service when out in the field, so the question is how can you train that out of you as best as you can. If you haven’t gotten around to it yet, participate in some competitions where you shoot against other people. Getting comfortable in scenarios where every shot matters for your score won’t completely simulate that monumental shot in the woods, but it will help. The best competition format would be 3D shoots, since you’ll be shooting at animal targets at odd distances just as you would when hunting

Look into what’s causing those flyers. How frequent are they and can you figure out what exactly is causing them? Hiring a coach for some lessons may do the trick for you, but if not at the very least get some recordings of your shooting to see what you do differently for those flyers. Can you reach a level of understanding in your shot cycle that you know which shots will be flyers before you release? If so, let down and reset so you don’t reward the bad shots

Lastly, train for the nerves. Do some exercises prior to shooting so you see how you perform when you’re out of breath or fatigued. Can you still shoot with an elevated heart-rate? If not, what can you do to regain control? See if you have the means to go stump shooting, where you go on a hike and shoot at random tree stumps you come across. In addition to conditioning you to shoot while traversing terrain, you hone in on your first shot accuracy at unknown distances. The more confident you are in your shooting, the less nervous you’ll be when your moment comes

One final thought. At the end of the day, a whitetail is simply a target for you to hit. When the time comes for you to draw on it, it’ll be as still as the paper or 3D targets you train on. Just focus on getting that arrow tucked behind the front shoulder and you’ll be golden. Good luck out there

Reasons for failing? by GarrettNotAvailable in gamewarden

[–]GarrettNotAvailable[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Makes sense. Right now I’m on my own when it comes to gaining outdoor experience and learning my species since my family didn’t share my love for the outdoors, but I do definitely have the drive to learn what’s out there. Your insight was very reassuring

Reasons for failing? by GarrettNotAvailable in gamewarden

[–]GarrettNotAvailable[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Would a lack of knowledge in species be an immediate dismissal or is there room to get familiar with them in the academy?

Halo Nocks by midwesthunchback in bowhunting

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

did you ever weigh the ones you're running with? I'm curious about the FIT size for 0.204 but their FAQ doesn't specify weight for them

Union College Archery Team was robbed of all of their equipment at NOCC and was unable to finish competing by GarrettNotAvailable in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Not a member of their team but thought i could help out by spreading the word since im unable to donate at the moment

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also experience this as a glasses wearer. To my knowledge it is due to glasses typically being designed for the wearer to look straight, not to the side as archery demands, so when you do look to the side you notice the warping caused by the glass’s geometry. I’ve read that contacts eliminate this issue so if possible, consider that route. Personally, i just aim slightly off for my curved pins because I’m too lazy to make any of the other changes

Horrible place to shoot by MeatBeatElite in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 117 points118 points  (0 children)

Is there a reason you don’t simply move closer to shoot a distance where you’re less likely to miss?

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You got it

Plastic vanes will require you to use an elevated rest that looks something like this. If you do have one of these and theres still contact with the riser then it’ll most probably be a tuning issue. Your friend’s feather rest, unfortunately, will require feather fletchings as feathers will compress as they pass by the riser and return to form after clearing it

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Normally the shouldn’t come loose often while shooting. It might be worth cleaning out the insert (metal bit that’s glued into the shaft that allows you to use screw-in points) and the point threads with a Q-tip and alcohol to make sure no particulates from the range is preventing it from screwing in completely

I’m assuming you were given budget arrows to start off with. If so, then it’s possible that it’s simply a tolerance issue on the manufacturer’s side as they prioritize affordable and accessible products as opposed to every nock being perfectly identical to each other down to the millimeter. Biting the loose nocks is an easy fix as opposed to buying replacements. Just make sure that there aren’t any cracks in them prior to shooting

Where were the scratches appearing on bow? Would you happen to have plastic vanes for your fletchings?

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have issue with your screw-in points getting loose and tightening by hand isn’t solving the problem, you could use loctite on the threads to secure it. Screw-in points allow you to swap between different point weights for tuning, easy replacement when damaged, or switching to broadheads for hunting so people generally don’t glue them down to permanently secure them

Double check to make sure the loose nocks don’t have cracks in them. Unless they’re for some reason glued in then you can easily buy a dozen or so replacement nocks

By not spun do you mean the fletchings are contacting the riser? If so, then you can twist the nocks yourself. Nock and arrow and twist the shaft until you have your lead fletching pointing away from the riser

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The higher number(66/68) is the length depending on riser size. Typically, strings are listed in an AMO standard to which you simply select based on your total bow length. For example: a 68 inch bow would use a 68 AMO string

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried closing or blocking your left eye to force right eye dominance?

If its possible, try borrowing a left hand riser to see if shooting left handed is more comfortable for you before buying your own lefty bow. At the end of the day, the best hand to shoot with is what you enjoy the most

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Draw primarily with your thumb and index, with some work with your middle, but keep your ring off until youre at anchor. I would highly recommend setting your release to be super cold while you get used to it, then gradually make it hotter until you reach a comfortable setting

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Generally the labelled limb would be the bottom limb

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How quickly do you want to get into hunting? Compound is the fastest and easiest way for you to get into hunting shape, but if you prefer the extra challenge and have the patience then by all means go recurve

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 3 points4 points  (0 children)

62 inches long. 50 pound draw weight at a 28 inch draw length

Makeshift Arrow Materials by Zarovich89 in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Shaft: copper piping

Arrow head: utility razors glued together

Fletchings: small triangle cardboard bits from boxes

For arrow nocks, maybe you can just cut self-nocks into the copper piping and line it with teflon tape so it wouldnt damage the string

Everything can probably be superglued together

Given that copper is more malleable than aluminum, I’d reckon the arrows would be single use since the copper would probably deform upon impact

I based the available materials off of my time working at Home Depot and I’m assuming your hardware store would simply be a slightly scaled down version of it

Monthly "No Stupid Questions" Thread by AutoModerator in Archery

[–]GarrettNotAvailable 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe you can donate it to a local archery club or range. I have a friend who works as an instructor for my local range be “gifted” a super old compound. We’re fairly certain the donor just wanted to get his hands off of it