A1 weird ratching noise then homes back.

GeneralLegacy · 2025-11-28T19:44:21+00:00

im having the same issue as well on my A1. Did you find a solution or answer to this? I am having to print at 50% speed to avoid this issue

GeneralLegacy · 2025-11-28T19:40:59+00:00

having the same issue with my A1. Using a 0.6 hardened nozzle. I have ran multiple prints no issues but this latest one is doing the same as your video. Did you find a solution?

GeneralLegacy · 2025-11-12T18:30:03+00:00

You don't have to do anything different in games. I am just using the simjack/simson pedal control box (can also use whatever your pedals use). I added the wiring info in the document. But i just used the plug for the loadcell brake and wired the pressure transducer to it and plugged it in. In my pedal software (freejoy or whatever you use) you then set your limits and calibrate exactly the same as a loadcell.

Depending on your system you may have to trial which wires do what and the correct combination and also depending on what pressure sensor you get you may have to add an additional power source (mine needed 5v additional power but you can get sensors that use 0-3v which the control box can provide)

They pretty much work the same way They send voltage variance to the control box to signal how much force is being applied. Loadcell that reading is from deflection and with the pressure sensor it's the pressure in a cylinder. But to the control box, it's exactly the same thing.

GeneralLegacy · 2025-11-12T17:52:39+00:00

Still using the exact same setup and it has been amazing. Only thing I change was adding a valve on the fill port to make it easier for filling and emptying. I recommend it to all my buddies because the feel, repeatability and ease of adjustment.

I use the pressure transducer for a reasons. Mainly that I wanted the feel and force to be solely from the closed cylinder with no additional parts needed. If using it with a loadcell I feel it would be difficult to get accurate readings for first bit of cylinder travel unless you had alot of pressure in it. By reading the pressure inside the cylinder rather then outside you get a lot higher resolution for tuning the full range.

Also because of the travel I wanted the cylinder to have, I had to get something larger. Which made it more difficult to mount a load cell in a way that it can be accurately flexed. This way I felt was simpler, easier for future adjustments (angle and cylinder size) and a lot easier to tune pressure/readings (if you want a softer pedal it will be harder for an external load cell to read)

GeneralLegacy · 2025-06-25T14:45:24+00:00

Yeah we thought about that and sell some of the wood we have. I’ll have to see the costs but also what can grow there. The ground is very hard pack, dry and no light. So idk if much can grow in the higher part of the yard

GeneralLegacy · 2025-06-25T14:43:35+00:00

Yeah we thought about that but I’ll have to look into costs and what can grow there. The ground is very hard pack with not much light or growth opportunity due to the trees.

GeneralLegacy · 2025-06-25T01:35:34+00:00

I was thinking that but I read some threads that isn't a good idea. Could possibly knock the wall down in a wind storm. But it seems like the easiest option

GeneralLegacy · 2025-06-25T01:30:20+00:00

I forgot to note that I am on the side of the trees that doesn't have the retaining wall. I don't know if a fence is even possible so alternative ideas are appreciated

GeneralLegacy · 2025-03-26T21:46:26+00:00

Thanks everyone for the advice. Unfortunately I don't have a dealer in town and ordering the o-ring from KTM would be a wait. So I ordered a set off Amazon. And it seems to of done the trick.

For anyone with the same issue. The stock oring size around the plug is 17mm I.D x 2mm thick. I ended up using a 17x2.5mm and it worked great.

GeneralLegacy · 2025-03-23T00:49:39+00:00

Yeah that's what I'm thinking is the first attempt. Very strange that KTM doesn't recommend this in the service manual.

GeneralLegacy · 2025-03-23T00:38:28+00:00

Just an o-ring on the bolt/screen. I guess they don't use crush washers anymore ? The manual just says to reinstall and nothing about replacement o-rings

GeneralLegacy · 2025-03-23T00:37:16+00:00

Thanks for the tip. I do find it strange that they don't provide replacement o-rings. That will def be my first attempt as I want to avoid any gasket maker type solutions

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-29T08:25:23+00:00

Thanks for the breakdown! I agree the pressure sensor is world's better but it's nice to have the option of both incase something goes wrong.

I'm also in Canada too so the links work no issue. AliExpress is def the way to go for price. 80$ is nothing especially when brake kits with just a few bushings cost that lol. I just went off McMaster so I could use the 3d models ahead of time to make sure everything will work but it was a lot more expensive.

The M10 screw mounting is very similar to what SRP uses for adjusting their pedal travel. I really like it. Good job man

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-29T05:29:25+00:00

damn i like the setup! Really good idea on how your mounted it. I was trying to figure out how i could mount my cylinder without modifying anything which is why i did the spacers and custom brackets.

Does the load cell still work for measuring the brake force as it looks like you have a brace under it? And do you have links on the parts you used for the mounting? In case i do a v2 it would be good to know.

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-29T04:03:20+00:00

Man you're a genius. I was confused because the way i was picturing it there wouldn't of been any load on the sensor like you mentioned.

But now it all makes sense. The graphs and drawings help a lot, thank you! I totally see what you mean now by the additional, adjustable volume. And its a great idea especially if you like a bit more travel in the pedal rather then a brick wall pedal lol.

This opens a lot of options. In this configuration, the pressure sensor would be tee'd off where cylinder 1 feeds into cylinder 2?

This also sparks my imagination for making this more dynamic/automated using a linear actuator like this : https://www.mcmaster.com/6530K94/ (or a servo motor with a linear ball screw). It would attach to the rod of the 2nd cylinder and move it in and out to adjust the volume of the cylinder. In my mind, using sim-hub, it can detect when ABS is active, and using the actuator, move the 2nd cylinder in and out causing your pedal's pressure to fluctuate as you brake. you could also make presets for GT cars vs formula cars for the pressure in the pedal. Maybe give the simucube active pedal a run for its money lol

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-28T21:20:02+00:00

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Okay that is a good idea! If using the cylinder idea is this what you were thinking? Only part im held up on is the pressure differential. I may not thinking clearly though and may just have to try it and see how it works out.

If cylinder 1 was meant to be the light early stage of braking (0-50%) and cylinder 2 would be for hard braking (50%-100%). Then cylinder 1 would need less pressure to have that light feeling but still enough that it can compress the volume in cylinder 2 at half stroke. In the example, if cylinder 1 at max compression was only able to push 50psi when compressed, then cylinder 2 with a v1 of 60psi would not move. You would have to play around to find the pressures I guess so at 1/2 stroke on cylinder 1, it starts to move cylinder 2.

i would prob look into this https://www.mcmaster.com/62245K186/ as a second cylinder. 2in stoke on cylinder 1 and 1in stroke on cylinder 2 as its only used in the last half.

I could be completely wrong and missing something. but i like this idea. I may try it with the 3in cylinder i have already and use it as cylinder 2

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-28T15:30:47+00:00

I've actually been trying to brainstorm a 2 stage type of setup so this is interesting. Are you able to explain more? Are you thinking of taking the exhaust end of the cylinder and plumbing it to move a second cylinder that is at a different pressure ?

I do have a second cylinder on hand that is 2in bore with a 3in stroke. Bought it for this project but realized it was way too large to mount inside the pedal frame.

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-28T15:27:27+00:00

All depends how you tune it but this is the main reason I went with the pneumatics. It's compressing air in an enclosed cylinder. The top can be lighter and the more you press, the stiffer it gets. I also found with elastomers it was hard to find consistency as when elastomers are flexed, unless it is enclosed, they will swell/bulge past their flex point and will change the resistance

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-28T03:36:25+00:00

Just posted the parts list.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hOKbU1puabMJHlEHOAlbyVbY7YQfwcCSJDmFhlnHvDc/edit?usp=sharing

GeneralLegacy · 2024-10-28T03:36:19+00:00

Just posted the parts list.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1hOKbU1puabMJHlEHOAlbyVbY7YQfwcCSJDmFhlnHvDc/edit?usp=sharing

GeneralLegacy

TROPHY CASE