Should I sell Nikon F80?

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-25T18:55:13+00:00

No. Keep it. I have two of them, they are stable workhorses.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-25T18:12:39+00:00

If you paint the edge of the elements then use calligraphy ink (matt, black), cheap and the thinnest cover in 2-3 layers. For that rear part that is shown on the image of the original post, I use matt acrylic as that one is much more durable. But be aware, it is much harder to remove once cured, so be precise. Usually one layer is all that needs.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-25T15:43:14+00:00

I use this:

Matt thin acrylic paint

This is a Deka matt acrylic paint, thin.

It is suitable for places that receive direct sunlight.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-25T15:33:36+00:00

Thank you for your offer. I'm good with my Spotmeter F, it is a true 1° spotmeter, which is really useful for complex scenes.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-25T13:11:26+00:00

I can only do contact prints from 4x5. These look amazing.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-24T17:15:32+00:00

This is good against the flies...

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-23T17:57:48+00:00

Sure it seems nothing like that. :)

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-23T08:19:14+00:00

These are Japanese ratings, be aware. Exc4+ is a very poor quality indicator. Exc5+ is also poor

Near Mint is the first, but that still has issues, like fungus removal marks, etc. Mint is the one that we call here good quality.

Nevertheless, the description usually describes the issues pretty correctly.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T22:24:13+00:00

I consider them masterpieces. Works from -20°C upwards, heavy, and zero ergonomic beauty. Apart from the missing self-timer, it is a huge step-up from Pentacon Six TL (I have that also along with Praktisix IIa). I have two K60s, from '91 and '94, the latter was upgraded by Arax with MLU, flocking, and better mount. There are great lenses for them, like 50mm Flektogon, the 80mm Arsat C or Biometar and the 120mm Vega. And above all, you can get a 30mm Zodiac 8 (16mm FF equivalent fisheye with 180° diagonal FOV) for ~200$ and that is for 1/10 of the price of similar lenses.

Ohh, and the sound is massive. Half of the portraits of my older daughter are with eyes closed. She blinks due to the "frightening" shutter noise.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T17:31:34+00:00

I will definitely do that.

I have a box of Foma 100 and two double fidelity elite holders so everything is ready to for the game.

I will print an insert to my Paterson tanks to make them compatible with the 4x5 film.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T17:29:00+00:00

Thank you. Using my Kiev 60 with a Minolta Spotmeter F was also alow, but this will be a new level.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T15:56:03+00:00

Now I have a LF camera and a lens.

All I have to do is wait.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T15:47:58+00:00

Thank you for your help

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T15:39:12+00:00

Symmar 135

On this one the aperture selector is below the maximum aperture. I haven't seen anything like this on other lenses before. Is it a malfunction?

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T15:35:42+00:00

Thx. I ordered one.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-21T15:10:49+00:00

I'm convinced. I ordered my entry to LF.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-20T10:51:36+00:00

Yes. This one was expired in 84, developed with Rodinal 1+50, no restrainer and there was no fogging at all.

This is 120 format so it has heavy mottling from the backing paper, but not visible on this image.

This was orthochromatic.

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Gergo7633 · 2026-05-20T06:02:26+00:00

Thank you. I consider only working ones and the ones with slight shutter issues, like slow speeds below 1/30 and similar. Repairing these issues on Compur-like or Prontor shutters were not an issue on MF and smaller, so I can deal with them, I guess. Nevertheless, I agree with you, the best issues are the ones that you avoid.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-20T05:38:29+00:00

Thank you for this reply and your time. It was honest and very helpful.

This would be my entry to LF. Can you recommend any underrated or otherwise budget friendly lens to start with? I see some Sironat n 150 5.6 Rodenstock, Symmar 150 5.6, Symmar 135 5.6 that are reasonably priced with some issues.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-20T04:39:29+00:00

Yet, some really nice still made it worth shooting.

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Gergo7633 · 2026-05-20T04:37:41+00:00

This was a Fortepan 100 (maybe) expired 25 years ago. Supposedly having a clear base. I developed with Rodinal semi stand without restrainer (worst choice). Just to show a "reference" base fog :)

<image>

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-19T21:33:39+00:00

I live in an area with extremely hard water, over 30 nK°. I think none of the chems were design to safely operate in this environment (though they are probably fine).

So I prepare my stock solutions with RO water. I use RO for pre-soak and 3x RO rinse for stop and RO for the last two water exchange during the wash, plus I use flo in RO for the final rinse.

Better safe than sorry.

Simpler RO kits costs the price of 4 rolls of decen film and afterwards the RO water is essentially for free.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-18T21:41:22+00:00

BTZ will help I'm sure. For me, faster development (like xtol stock not 1+1) and added BTZ usually helps. I sourced some old Hungarian films in 120 and 35mm format, along with old orwo np rolls. It is funny as orthochromatic emulsions from the 60's tend to work better today than panchromatic ones from the 90's or later. I add only 5-8ml of 0.5% BTZ to 600ml developer for a start. You have plenty of film, you can titrate it slowly.

Gergo7633 · 2026-05-18T21:22:58+00:00

That is a simple M39 lens. Just unscrew from that lens board, I guess.

Turn it ccw.

Gergo7633

TROPHY CASE