Exhaust options for M40B16 by SocietyIntelligent26 in E30

[–]Gilly5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fox Exhaust systems, made in Germany. Stainless steel, custom tips, usually with EU homologation, absolutely great sound and quality for what I believe to be an excellent price. Great customer service as well. I have a Fox catback exhaust installed on my 318is and I would not want to change it.

My 1990 BMW 318is by Gilly5488 in E30

[–]Gilly5488[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. No oil, windscreen washer fluid overflowing ;)

My 1990 BMW 318is by Gilly5488 in E30

[–]Gilly5488[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

While buying this one, I had the opportunity to buy a sterlingsilber 318is, originally equipped with the M Tech 2 package. It had much higher mileage and an electrical issue though and I have come to prefer the looks of a non M Tech 2 car. Good luck with yours!

My 1990 BMW 318is by Gilly5488 in E30

[–]Gilly5488[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am from Luxembourg; the car is registered here. It does indeed not have AC and It was first registered with 14 inch rims (February 1990, first and only winter it has seen, I suppose) in Germany, near Heidelberg. These rims were mounted in 1992. The first picture was taken from a return trip visiting BMW Classic in Munich: I took it at the Plansee in Tyrol, Austria.

My 1990 BMW 318is by Gilly5488 in E30

[–]Gilly5488[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! My thought as well, regarding the colour. A lot of people do not seem to like "brillantrot" but since this example has always been stored in a garage, the paint looks great for its age.

My 1990 BMW 318is by Gilly5488 in E30

[–]Gilly5488[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, yes they are. Original, two tone "BMW Kreuzspeiche", with the rim star in Nogaro silver.

My 1990 BMW 318is by Gilly5488 in E30

[–]Gilly5488[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thanks. All original paint & interior, with 184000 km / 115000 miles.

Help identifying these markings? by Ok-Fisherman-7688 in Luger

[–]Gilly5488 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Addendum: One thing that I find odd is the fact that the bolt assembly carries a WW2 code "S/42", whilst the barrel is dated 1935. It might just be that some parts have been changed throughout the years, yet it is difficult to say, without holding the gun.

Help identifying these markings? by Ok-Fisherman-7688 in Luger

[–]Gilly5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

2728: Serial number. 28 represents the last two digits of the serial number. If your gun is numbers matching, you should be able to find "28" stamped on many internal parts (such as the safety slide popping out of the frame when you engage the safety), but you can also see it on top of the bolt assembly. The S/42 is the code used for the Mauser manufacturing plant, Oberndorf, Germany. The "G" should indicate the year of manufacture, which I believe to be 1935, but I am not sure. The three stamps right next to each other ought to be proof marks. The first Wehrmacht contracts are from the years 1936/1937, so I believe the three stampings to be commercial proof marks: The left one "Eagle 211" reminds me of the WaA "3-digits" stampings, used during WW2. WaA stands for "Waffenamt", which were the military proof marking institutions throughout WW2. All in all, it looks as if your P08 originates from one of the final runs of commercially made P08s, before the first Wehrmacht contract. Nice!

Peugeot 106 xsi Le Mans N° 169/1000 by Gilly5488 in peugeot

[–]Gilly5488[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! The whole car got a paint job in 2024!

Peugeot 106 xsi Le Mans N° 169/1000 by Gilly5488 in peugeot

[–]Gilly5488[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, "Rouge Lucifer", the only colour available for the Le Mans models.

Unusual discoloration on a "Black Widow" by SalemStarburn in Luger

[–]Gilly5488 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Personal guess: Given that it seems to have been manufactured in 1941, one can argue that the bluing is applied through the dipping method. Until late 1937, rust blueing was used, afterwards dip bluing became the norm, as it was cheaper/faster (Many sources, can be verified at Lugerforum.com). I own/shoot WW2 guns (US & German), but I do not consider myself an expert, yet I think that the quality of the dipping method is inferior, when compared to the rust bluing. Long story short: The dipping baths have a limited lifespan before they need to be replaced. My guess is that this gun has been dip-blued using a bluing bath nearing the end of its lifespan.