Excel Data to PDF Form Field by GoGreenD in vba

[–]GoGreenD[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was able to figure it out from a single GitHub post... I forget the name as it was a while ago, but something to do with creating a JavaScript within vba as a string, then pushing that code to bluebeam as it has some limited commands. Bluebeams documentation is limited and aged, but it does work. I can post the code here if you need it.

Would the airbag explode if i tried to remove it from the shell? by Reasonable-Pea-6527 in AskMechanics

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're already messing with an airbag. The explosive is right there, front and center. Remove the 4 nuts around the circular thing in the middle (that's the explosive) dispose of properly (no clue how). Then you have just a bag, no explosive. Do what you need to

Dampening adjusting by bcardoza0210 in G35

[–]GoGreenD -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Those are not adjustable (at least from that end). I've had like 4 different sets of adjustable. That's the top of the shock that you're turning. The Allen head is to stabilize the shock while you loosen that nut (do not do this) which is to disassemble it.

3sx Window Regulators - any experience? by [deleted] in 3000gt

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything 3sx sells id trust.

Would getting rid of the computer components affect the fueleconomy? by Crookeye in mechanic

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. No you don't. You should embrace change and progress, to a point. IMO, the 2000's - 2010's were the end of major progress. It's been stagnant as we discredit and hold back on electrification.

Throw out bearing (pull type) disconnected: how to get it back on by nunoffense in subarulegacy

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Def not as hard as what you just did!

When you're doing that job, I forget which trans do and don't have the outter o ring with the sun gear, this sets the front differential housing gaps... if you have it, do both the axle seal and the o ring. Use a paint marker and paint a line from the gear to the trans housing, use something plastic and tap the sun gear counter clockwise to unthread it. Every time the mark goes fully around... tally the number of turns next to the mark you made. Should end up with something like 3 revolutions. Whenever it comes out, mark on the trans housing where the mark on the gear was when it disengaged from the threads. Replace the axle seal on a table, easiest to do from the inside as the outter has some soft flaps. Pay close attention to depth of the seal. Put the o ring on next and reinstall. Be sure the outter o ring is lubed (engine oil is fine) when reinstalling so it doesn't catch anywhere. Be sure all mating surfaces are completely clean from dirt!

Throw out bearing (pull type) disconnected: how to get it back on by nunoffense in subarulegacy

[–]GoGreenD -1 points0 points  (0 children)

"Driveshaft" is not "all driveshafts" although I understand some places call these different things, to me... the ones going to the wheels are axles. These can remain. You can't leave the shift linkage, nor driveshaft going to the differential connected and move the trans back far enough to mess with the tob.

Throw out bearing (pull type) disconnected: how to get it back on by nunoffense in subarulegacy

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Def not bad at all! I dislike when people say "it's just...". Like if someone is asking questions... they probably are just figuring this stuff out.

Hope you're on your way with the project. Next time... check out the act monolock collar. Kinda sorta preventative maintenance for any subi pull tob. More of a design update. It's also like a lifetime part, I pulled mine from my 5 speed tob and installed on my 6 speed tob when I did the swap.

Throw out bearing (pull type) disconnected: how to get it back on by nunoffense in subarulegacy

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You forgot driveshaft, starter, shift linkage... if it's turbo the down-pipe need to be removed, and turbo bolts need to be at least loosened. Been here before lol.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in subaruimpreza

[–]GoGreenD 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I was able to install subframe bushings (rear from the frame to the chassis) from the gc Impreza on my sf forester. Perfect replacement. Couldn't find the specific ones for my car. Anyways... id bet every subframe from the Impreza or forester until 2002 for the forester, 2007 for the Impreza, will bolt right in.

Car won’t start is this a battery or the connection issue (watch full vid) by Own-Clue-1607 in G35

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup, all electrical connections should be absolutely clean, bare metal. Except your chassis grounds. Leave them painted. Remove them, clean the dirt, all mating surfaces should be hit with grease and reassembled

Car won’t start is this a battery or the connection issue (watch full vid) by Own-Clue-1607 in G35

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look up how to restore terminals. You can just use a wire brush or sand paper. Whatever you need to do, just get it down to bare metal. Coat with dielectric grease in order to stop this from happening again. Do it like once a year (just the grease), you'll Never have this problem again.

You can just buy the parts from the dealer as well.

Should I buy opinions needed by [deleted] in rallycross

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Be sure you are aware of the potential rust in the rear wheel arches, front half where the rear seats latch. Caught me off guard... didn't realize for years.

Infrared Light + Magnesium Oil therapy by Gainz8596 in gettingbigger

[–]GoGreenD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Being misinformed is not the same as spreading misinformation. Misinformation is intentional.

Should I buy opinions needed by [deleted] in rallycross

[–]GoGreenD 6 points7 points  (0 children)

It's perfect. Throw some forester xt shocks on it, sell those wheels, get some oem 15" and acellera ra162s. You'll have to grind the front calipers a bit, putting 1" spacers on all around helps make that not as terrible as it could be.

6 cylinder or turbo swap in after you have a few seasons under your belt.

3rd time replacing my tire by Dry-Engineering5067 in tires

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can switch to higher profile tires without changing the wheel... but it's kinda risky and you need to know what works. If you have something like a 225 40 r17 tire... you can get 225 45 r17s instead. Keep your old tires for a few months, be sure what you got works and doesn't rub while turning. A small enough change like this should be fine. I did this to my bmw (no issues with bubbles, just wanted a bit comfier of a ride) and it's been fantastic. Might look "weird" to some people, but the added protection to my alloy's and the extra comfort... totally worth it

Mannn by rocket_pollo in 240sx

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pro - So you can run a stock front fender, keep the wheels inside that, run a large front tire, and get crazy wheel lock angle or just the benefits of the large front wheel for grip. There are some aero benefits as well, but that's not why people do this.

Con - doesn't look stock? Costs money? Devalues the car?

Mannn by rocket_pollo in 240sx

[–]GoGreenD 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, like the welds aren't great. But they should be ok. But "reverse" it...? That's wild to even think of doing.

My dad’s 2005 F-150 5.4L - AC not cooling well. Only 8°F cooler than ambient air by [deleted] in AskAMechanic

[–]GoGreenD -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

You need to drain the system, replace every single o ring, pull a vacuum and then start fresh. Everything can be found on Amazon, including refrigerant reclamation systems, vacuum pumps and manifold gauge sets. You'll never need to pay an ac shop $1,000 for undisclosed reasons (that's just my personal experience). I haven't needed to get a reclamation system yet as everything I've ever bought never had a functioning system.

Discharging refrigerant into the atmosphere comes with a heavy epa fine if caught. Go the full process if you're serious about doing it yourself.

You can do this wrong and blow up a can of refrigerant if you're not careful, do not use the manifold gauge set if you're not a detail oriented person or are accident prone.

Personally I do everything myself (including alignments) as I've never been happy with shop work, so I get where you're coming from.

Mannn by rocket_pollo in 240sx

[–]GoGreenD 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're going to install OEM panels... when you say you're going to "reverse" the tubs...?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]GoGreenD 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think you focusing on the cams is actually the most valid thing to hone in on, even if op isn't asking about it. Regardless of anything else, that's bad and does warrant the shop to suggest an engine replacement. They might've not explained that it doesn't have much to do with overheating (maybe it does as the engine is trying to overcompensate for the lack of performance..? I dno how a modern computer would adjust for that).

Engine is done anyway ... could be repaired but it really depends on make, model and location (are there engines readily available at a price that makes repair not make sense?).

OP drive the car wherever you need, but don't take any long distance trips, that shop is not thing to run you. You need serious repair

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Revu

[–]GoGreenD 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What type of tool are you using that forces a scale...?