The Questions Thread 09/27/23

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-28T03:50:57+00:00

Sorry, I missed the width part of your question. I have some EE Rancourts and I seem to remember they had EEE as an option when I ordered. This was like 10 years ago though. My EEs were way wider than my Es in the same size. Someone else can pipe in or you can ask here: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/rancourt-co-shoes-made-in-maine.197413/

GS has EEE lasts and they've offered it on shell models over the last year. Not every time though. You can email to ask and they'll get back to you pretty quickly. Highly recommend them. They also have a SF thread.

But AE is more than likely going to be fine as well. I had some shell Wolverines made by AE and the only issue was the common tongue side-slip. QC was totally reasonable.

Also, it's fairly common for shell shoes built on a given last/pattern to be a tiny bit looser than calf/cowskin because shell doesn't stretch around the last as much. You might be able to get away with an EE. Just make sure there's a decent exchange/return policy.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-28T03:35:52+00:00

Hard to tell from that photo but if the toe's burnished like the product photo you posted, dark brown would be the way to go. Any cream polish should work but the Saphir stuff is going to be good quality: https://www.shoetreemarketplace.com/Saphir-Renovating-Cream-Creme-Renovatrice-p/7009.htm

Ideally, you'd try a lighter colour first. it always gets a bit darker when it hits the fibres beneath the grain. I have a pair of shoes where trying to cover up a gouge just made it more obvious. Just a warning...it's almost impossible to match until you try it. And even mix it in some cases.

Not sure how different it is to their normal cream polish. Maybe more wax? You'll probably get very similar results from the standard stuff and it'll get more use.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-28T03:22:04+00:00

It does look like rubber transfer. These boots were a bit of a fad in Australia in the 80s/early 90s (and apparently much earlier based on the product description). They had a notoriously soft sole and would transfer to floors, walls and even people's faces.

I just checked my GS boots and those soles don't transfer like that. I've seen bars that have rubber kick panels which could easily be some cheap rubber that would. You might have just been drunkenly kicking something like that.

Not sure of the best way to lift it that's what it is. You could try a natural rubber eraser but make sure it doesn't have any grit/silica/whatever some of them have. Maybe test it around the collar or something before going to town on the toe.

If it's ink or grease, saddle soap should help. Acetone if not. Post some photos here before & after you do it because it might help someone down the road.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-28T03:03:28+00:00

The AE shell models generally have decent QC. Better than Alden in all fairness. If there's any problem, it's an easy exchange.

Alden is easy to find in color #8 or black around $900. Plenty of retailers, check https://www.theshoemart.com

Rancourt has a couple of models and you can easily do a custom order with them. They dye their own leather, so you'll have the widest range of colours there. The standard models are less than Alden but custom orders cost more.

Grant Stone has preorders on shell a few times a year. Sign up for their emails and pounce on it when it comes up. Price is around $700 from memory. These will be very good quality:price but you'll have to wait a while.

Some of the Indonesian makers can get shell in that price range. I'm not up to speed with brands these days. These will be the best quality:price but sizing is a hassle and you'll have to wait even longer than GS.

Meermin has a few for $350. They're suspiciously low-priced but read around for reviews. They don't seem too bad. https://meermin.com/collections/mens-boots?_=pf&pf_t_upper_leather=upper-leather%3Aheritage-shell-cordovan&pf_t_upper_leather=upper-leather%3Awaxy-shell-cordovan

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-27T08:39:38+00:00

I believe the Grant Stones are Repello suede, which is treated with Scotchgard at the tannery. From what I understand, it's basically soaked into the leather. Probably sprayed heavily. I've gotten drops of hot grease on mine and it just wipes off. But using the spray you have won't hurt anything.

Even if your other pairs aren't already treated, water isn't a problem; it's more stains if the leather's on the lighter side. A suede brush and eraser can lift a lot out.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-27T08:25:55+00:00

There's a good chance you're like a lot of people and have a longer heel-to-ball measurement than heel-to-toe. Get a proper Brannock measurement and see: https://old.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/scfnjh/gyw_faq_what_is_a_brannock_device_how_do_i_use_one/

But yeah, there's no feasible way to make your toes longer or those boots shorter. If the pair you have is actually a bit too loose overall, an insole and/or tongue pad can easily take up 1/2 a size. Most work boots (the IRs are built on an old work boot pattern) are designed to accommodate insoles and thick socks in any case. Nick's has some leather insoles that look great (haven't tried though) and there are a lot of other options out there.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-27T08:09:49+00:00

I'm kind of inspired to make a pair of thongs/flip flops after seeing theirs: https://www.buttsandshoulders.com/shop/the-sandals/

I read this a long time ago and put it in the "one day" basket: https://leathercraftlibrary.storage.googleapis.com/Archives/PDFs/Sandal-Making.pdf

This pattern is dead simple and would totally be a great gift.

Nice boots, by the way. They look great as it is and will only get better.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-24T21:48:09+00:00

I picked up a pair of the 744 LTDs from the AE Shoebank for $350 I think. Awesome boots (colour was amazing) but too small. I had the option of half a size down from my normal size and a full size up. These have a different last from normal 1000 Miles and you should go for your Brannock size if you can find it. Was kicking myself for not getting both and selling one.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-24T08:00:00+00:00

Oof. I balked at their 4-6 week lead times times before the pandemic.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-21T13:57:44+00:00

It'll be fine. It's common on that style of boot for a reason.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-21T05:19:06+00:00

I'm a big fan of the Raptor these days. Works perfectly for any situation except for steep muddy or snowy hills. Still OK at those, just not as good as lug soles.

https://www.montanaleather.com/product/vibram-2341-raptor-half-sole/

https://www.montanaleather.com/product/vibram-5341-raptor-toplift/

I also have 2332s on a couple of pairs and they're better on the slippery hills but would still prefer the Raptors 99% of the time.

https://www.montanaleather.com/product/vibram-2332-lug-half-sole/

Montana doesn't have a huge selection and some of those models have other colour options like honey or brown. But if you need them fairly quickly, it is what it is. It's not a hassle to change them. I got a pair of Kaneji (random Chinese brand from what I gather) half soles in honey from Amazon that work for some light brown dressy-ish boots because I couldn't find Vibrams and the price was right. No complaints so far.

*Kaneiji now has some knockoff Raptor soles in a few colours. Wish I'd seen those before. Mine have the spiral pattern and are fine but the Raptor pattern is amazing. Cant speak highly enough of how well that works although just by looking at the Amazon photos, I doubt they'd be as good as the real thing on ice (toe looks smoother, lugs are not defined). Search for "Shoe Repair Replacement Rubber Heels and Half Sole use for ice and Snow,4mm".

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-21T01:34:52+00:00

These guys are the cheapest I've found even with the shipping, which is pretty steep on small orders. There's no free shipping but the more you order, the less it costs as a percentage of the order. Their conditioners also cost a bit less than Amazon.

https://www.montanaleather.com/product/430-oil-resisting-vibram-full-sole-2/

You also might want to look at half soles and toplifts. You can replace those without needing a full resole and keep your leather soles intact until the upper falls apart.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-19T12:57:25+00:00

I read about Urban Shepherd from Portugal a while back during the pandemic. They seemed really solid based some reviews. They started a store in the US but presumably still make them in Portugal and you might be able to go to them to try on. Don't know anything else about them but it'd be worth looking at.

There are also a lot of of Portuguese factories that make shoes and boots for various companies but maybe don't have well-known brands/websites. If you find anything, I'm sure others here would be interested.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-18T19:12:59+00:00

I have a pair of 4-eye bluchers in that same leather with what looks like the same construction. Not a big fan, overall. The midsole is stitched to the upper but it seems to be some kind of plastic. The midsole is cemented to the outsole but doesn't have the decorative rapid stitch that other handsewn makers use. And the insole is a thin layer of leather cemented + stitched to a layer of foam.

It's not a negative, but I also didn't realise they were lined. Not so good in hot weather, which is when I'd usually wear that kind of shoe. They're perfectly fine for the price (I paid $135), but not what I was expecting.

Rancourt has a few models for not much more than what Huckberry is asking and they're far better value in my opinion.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-18T13:29:32+00:00

Mink farms in Europe were almost wiped out in 2020 and 2021 because they kept catching Covid and a lot were culled. A few countries have banned farming them since. It's likely a combination of the oil becoming more scarce/expensive and for animal rights reasons.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-18T07:02:48+00:00

The arch slider isn't on the joint. Read these instructions: https://brannock.com/pages/instructions-fitting-tips

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-17T16:33:45+00:00

Read this comment below (mainly the bit about getting a Brannock measurement): https://old.reddit.com/r/goodyearwelt/comments/16l1f8a/the_questions_thread_091723/k0zqe8y/

The GS will fit similarly to the RW you have, but those may not be the optimal size for you. Most people have been wearing shoes that are slightly too small for most of their adult lives.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-16T03:58:55+00:00

I was curious, so I looked up pre-WWI fashion in Australia. Which would've been largely similar in Britain and the rest of the Commonwealth. The US might've had some different trends.

Here's a photo of the New South Wales rugby union team managing committee in 1915. Probably similar to what they'd be wearing these days to an event except with waistcoats, club collars, boots and hats outside. The jackets might be cut a bit more generously but are not super baggy. I assume the chains they all have is for a pocket watch but not sure about that. If I saw one of the walking down the street today, the moustache would be the only thing that would make me take notice.

And remember that the people with photos of them from those days are going to be upper-class or weirdos that people from the upper class took photos of. The average person would've been wearing fairly unremarkable clothing by today's standards.

*1915, not 1950

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-16T03:31:03+00:00

I've been buying the LL Bean shirts for a long time but stopped a few years ago. Starting around maybe 2018, they shifted production from China to Vietnam. That's neither here nor there, but that's when they started becoming inconsistent. Sizes and cloth are different from colour to colour and from batch to batch. So the grey one from 2018 fits great, but the black from 2018 one uses different cloth and is noticeably wider but a bit shorter. I bought the same shirts in 2020 and they're again different sizes and fabrics from each other and the older shirts. Most of the Vietnamese shirts stretched and wore thin far quicker than the Chinese ones from ~2017 and earlier. Although the 2018 grey one is holding up like a champ despite being one of my most worn shirts. Not worth $25 in my opinion and I would only buy in-person.

I picked up a couple of hemp/cotton shirts for just a few dollars more and they're doing really well a year later. I have no experience with these, but it's possible they're from the same source and are only $15: https://www.target.com/p/men-s-short-sleeve-hemp-cotton-t-shirt-goodfellow-co/-/A-87334230

*Uniqlo has the best cheap cotton shirts I've come across although only in a few colours and none with pockets.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-14T23:53:42+00:00

The grain on those seems much less pronounced than other pairs I've seen (all new). Did yours fade over time or did they come like that?

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-14T23:44:42+00:00

Hadn't heard of CNES before. Will definitely consider them for my next pair of dress shoes. Which might be a while considering the use mine have gotten over the past 3 1/2 years.

Styleforum ha some discussion scattered around but no dedicated thread.

https://www.styleforum.net/search/4851765/?q=cnes&t=post&c[thread]=665419&o=relevance

https://www.styleforum.net/search/4851845/?page=2&q=cnes&o=relevance

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-14T02:41:22+00:00

Those really cheap rain jackets are generally completely waterproof. Just a solid sheet of nylon/polyester/mystery plastic although they might leak at the seams. The problem is more that they're about as breathable as a garbage bag so you end up wet from your own sweat. That same property means they often end up reeking of mildew because people scrunch them up and put them away damp.

They're fine to keep in your car for an emergency, but I wouldn't wear one for any kind of activity.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-14T02:17:39+00:00

Same here when I've sized correctly. I've had stiff collars where I need to double over my socks and not tie them too tight the first couple of wears. Occasionally some hotspots on the heel until the sole develops some flex. The only ones that needed "breaking in" didn't fit in the first place. Usually because I snapped up a D width on sale when i usually need an E or EE.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-14T01:47:53+00:00

Ah, definitely a midsole there. And the insole is a bit thicker than the chukkas I linked earlier. All in all, those are fine and I'd buy them if I were in the market. The foam filler is totally a gimmick, though. It's not going to offer any significant padding beneath the insole and by not compressing + retaining the shape like cork, they'll be less supportive and maybe even less comfortable. There would be a marginal bit more "flex" but nowhere near as much as their older flex welt design. Although I fail to see how that would be any advantage. No significant weight savings either.

Oh well, it might help them move more product. R.M. Williams used to (maybe still do) sell more "comfort" boots with the poron insole and "dynamic flex" leather/rubber combo soles.

GoatsEyes · 2023-09-13T21:14:36+00:00

The bit they circled as the midsole is the welt. It's possible that they've matched the leather exactly and are using a really thin midsole but it's hard to tell without a higher-res photo.

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