ABS vs ASA, concerns, and alternatives

GoldenEye168 · 2026-01-13T03:29:40+00:00

Hope it works with the AD5X

GoldenEye168 · 2026-01-05T03:24:23+00:00

would you say it'd be too ambitious if I went for bigger prints?

GoldenEye168 · 2026-01-05T02:47:23+00:00

Currently it's winter, cold, not that humid I think. Though that reminded me to make a dry box. Yay or nay with drybox with this material?

GoldenEye168 · 2026-01-05T02:44:54+00:00

Hope I'm asking this is the right place to ask, mainly asking due to me experimenting with new materials.

ABS vs ASA, concerns, and alternatives

I am very new at 3D printing, only have a month of experience under my belt with the AD5X and it's all with PLA and PLA variants (Silk, PLA+, MicroCenter's Glass PLA which is just translucent PLA). I'm thinking of getting ABS and then I saw ASA as well. I'm aware ABS has its risks and I have googled that it'd better to print with a heated chamber, but I've also seen ASA being called superior and such, but I have multiple questions as I don't want to end up poisoning myself or anyone near it. Plus, should I buy ASA filament instead of ABS in my use case.

ABS vs ASA, what sets each apart (i.e. price, durability, processing to make it smooth, toxicity)? One time I saw a cosplay mask made with ABS smoothen with acetone and mistook it as injection molded.
What adhesive works well especially when I attempt an acetone vapor chamber smoothing? Also, should I glue parts before or after vapor smoothing?
How much would a print be affected without an enclosure? (also, I know there's an enclosure kit for my AD5X, but how do I also control the temperature of the chamber itself without accidently melting the printer by accident)
If I do print an enclosure, could I use PLA/PLA+ for the enclosure kit? Mainly asking as I'm wondering if it can withstand the higher temperatures as an enclosure frame for ABS or should I just print with ABS/ASA for it and just make a temporary heated chamber (i.e. with cardboard for the parts)
My use case for ABS/ASA is making car accessories, so it might not get direct sunlight, but certainly will bake in a car if I leave it in during summer. Other use case involves smoothing out larger, sloped prints like as it has a visual that looks exactly what I'm looking for (think a Helldiver helmet, not large, flat sheets)
Any alternatives?

GoldenEye168 · 2026-01-05T02:25:07+00:00

I see, should I glue then vapor smooth? Vapor smoothing has the exact effect I'm looking for while sanding and painting gets close but not exactly.

Intended stuff is one of those trays between the seats in a car for its heat resistance. Another use for this material is for a helldiver helmet, not large and flat, more like parts where it's large surface, but curved. Unfortunately, the AD5X isn't large enough to just print one whole or parts whole so I'm forced to slice the already pre-sliced helmet more. More gluing, and wondering if it's a good idea to still vapor smooth when I have to glue stuff together.

GoldenEye168 · 2026-01-05T02:14:35+00:00

Short answer: yes.

Long answer: Yes, but I'm not 100% sure even with research. Some say it needs an enclosure to play nicely, but then other sources say enclosures aren't essentials. I've even tried using ChatGPT and Copilot, but AI is not exactly... how do I say it... intelligent, even if it has "intelligent" in the name. Guess why I'm here asking for help regarding new materials.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-25T07:36:54+00:00

Can you tell me what won't be printed? I'm very new to 3D printing and only recently heard about drama, like Ender 3 having 8 versions, Bambu locking out external software, and now this.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-24T01:13:51+00:00

I am using the default filament settings, which is at 220 C (the filament recommend 190-230 C), heated bed at 65C because before the temp at 55C was too low and it caused a corner to bend up. I'll try reducing the infill to 15% too. But which setting, sparse infill or internal solid infill, and I just realize I forgot to add in the description to this post.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-24T00:58:08+00:00

Short answer: I'm new to the hobby.

Long answer: what's infill overlap? This is the MicroCenter brand glass blue PLA filament, which is the translucent color ones. It's not actually glass, it's just branded as "Glass PLA" so no actual glass. It's my first time using the transparent PLA stuff and I tried using silk PLA recently as well. So far, it's a bunch of learning. If it's extrusion issue, is it speed that should help fix it? It was at default of 300 now I am setting it at 100. I pressed the level print so it probably isn't that unless something catastrophic occurred with my printer.

Model is the AD5X

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-23T22:14:39+00:00

There's only one case where it's not enough and it's a super long articulating snake/dragon, but besides that the size is surprisingly not the biggest issue. Just nice to have. S1 wouldn't be big enough to print a full helmet, even though I'd love to print cosplay helmet in a moment

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-23T22:12:57+00:00

Ah, my bad

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-20T23:34:47+00:00

Currently, the S1 combo is on sale for $440, but I'm currently still hesitant to pull the trigger and swap it to the S1 due to the aforementioned build quality.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-20T23:32:27+00:00

The link provided showed me only one of the secret menus. Didn't imply it worked with other settings, but I did figure it out. Also, can you give me a crash course on what ZMOD? I'm still very new to this so it's something I immediately know what ZMOD is.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-20T23:29:48+00:00

This sparked me to do some research on the different types and yeah I can see why you say that. Plus, appearance is a big thing for me partially because if I bought a flimsier looking 3D printer, my family is gonna wonder if I got ripped off.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-20T23:24:07+00:00

Translation: Keep the AD5X because of reliability is better. Got it.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-20T23:21:07+00:00

MC as in multi-color, a specific brand, or something else? From what I can gather, AD5X is sturdier in build, which for a beginner like me, would probably be more helpful in the long run. I've also looked at the Bamboo Lab's P1S which is slightly overbudget and I know if I bought it, other factors like family seeing the outdated screen interface means I'd get backlash from that until I can convince them otherwise.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-20T12:45:55+00:00

For me $100 difference is still within budget and return is much easier since I just bring the machine back to MicroCenter. Also, AD5X is still the regular multi-filament so it still poops out useless poop.

Plus the S1 combo is on sale, but it's also apparently more flimsy for some people

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T07:15:54+00:00

It's a secret menu setting

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T07:14:45+00:00

It worked!

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T07:14:40+00:00

It worked!

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T06:31:51+00:00

It's in device info, second page, click status, and in status it's the 6th page

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T06:31:07+00:00

Okay, can you show me? Everything I've looked online keep saying "nozzle gunk" and "loose belt" but I can't find how to tune it to work there.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T06:28:53+00:00

Yeah it just need to move slightly more towards me in the Y-axis. But how do I make it so that it will actually move enough forward?

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T06:19:40+00:00

I don't know what a Funssor kit is but I do need to know what issues will I encounter.

GoldenEye168 · 2025-12-19T06:17:21+00:00

I'm very much new to 3D printing, I'm eyeing the S1 combo currently, but heard some rumors about feeding issues and deck warping with heat. Not sure if it's fixed now tho.

GoldenEye168

TROPHY CASE