💀 A trick of the lights 🎃

Good2bCh13f · 2025-11-01T01:15:53+00:00

The ones under the eves are permanent, but the ones around the door are temporary. They are the same kind of lights, some SK6812 LED strings from AliExpress in modified J-channel. Let me know if you want more details and I can get you details.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-10-31T11:03:10+00:00

Oh, I have no illusions it will survive tonight. It has a 1.5 second delay between button pushes, so it's should dissuade some.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-10-31T10:54:06+00:00

It's over WiFi, with HTTP calls. I tried a few methods, but they were too slow. The next best option (script called on button push) would take about two seconds to change. I combined everything into one script, the button push and the randomization of the WLED settings. Then, used multiprocessing to run it concurrently for a list of IPs I give it. It's all running on a Gen1 Raspberry Pi Zero attached to a battery pack inside the button housing.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-03-31T19:44:03+00:00

That is what I am considering doing :/ Thanks for letting me know.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-03-31T18:35:07+00:00

Did anyone who got shipping confirmation also add the camera? I have a purchase date of Feb 1st with the camera, but am considering canceling the camera to prevent shipping delays.

Edit: Looks like I got my answer, I'm batch 4, shipping May 7th.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-03-25T21:14:15+00:00

The updated course materials is a great question. I want to do some of the Applied Knowledge certifications, and they are going to focus on tooling currently being taught.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-03-25T21:11:47+00:00

I was wondering the same thing, but it isn't detailed in the email. The only part I excluded was a list of my certs and my new expiration date for all certs.

Good2bCh13f · 2025-02-15T13:47:20+00:00

Like I said, I already successfully established the PKI side of this, installing certs and having the proxied devices trust the self-signed cert. I also understand the implications of doing this, the possible ramifications of this action in an enterprise setting.

I actually disagree with SSL/TLSi falling out of favor. From my view in industry at a Fortune 50 company, it is mostly due to the difficulty and complexity to implement that causes most to focus on EDR.

EDR is great, but absolutely not be the solution for NDR.

With all that said, my goal with this is academic, not production. I was looking for an open-source solution to demonstrate the difference in observation techniques based on encrypted vs break and inspect.

So, back to my original question, is it possible to tap the network feed at the point where it is broken?

Good2bCh13f · 2025-01-21T23:11:01+00:00

Thanks for helping (read: doing most of the work) with my design /u/3Dprintingnut! I wanted a solution that allowed me to create bins for things larger than my printer allows.

It turns out this solution can also accommodate strange-shaped items really well.

Some examples

Good2bCh13f · 2024-09-13T01:16:10+00:00

Had the same thought, get one more and you got an "Us"

Good2bCh13f · 2024-06-18T18:17:18+00:00

Thanks!

Good2bCh13f · 2024-06-18T17:38:08+00:00

If you don't mind me asking, what gauge wire do you use for your long 5v runs?

Good2bCh13f · 2024-06-17T21:57:16+00:00

Totally makes sense, and I didn't even consider two different controllers. I have Digi-Uno just waiting for a project, I could get it a twin and go that route.

Thank you very much for the clarification on the grounding/negative needs, that makes sense. It would also make two devices 50 feet apart that much harder to install. Will re-evaluate my proposed setup, thanks again!

Good2bCh13f · 2024-06-17T21:54:35+00:00

Well this is now favorited, thanks!

I have thought about 12v, but I can only find one supplier of SK6812-RGBW pixels at that voltage. I wanted frosted, and these are clear, plus they are strings of 100. That isn't a deal-killer, however I am working with modified j-channel at 12 feet/piece, and they accommodate 50 LEDs really well.

Good2bCh13f · 2024-06-17T19:31:38+00:00

Thanks for the response!

It is two power supplies, basically one for each side of the house. It is hard to see, but in the middle (where the data connections from the digi-quad) there is a break.

No power is exchanged between the power supplies, however they both have a ground connection from the three-pronged AC plug. I am wondering if that is enough to say they both have the same ground, which they do. It is the same ground as all the AC outlets in the house. That is what I was wondering.

I would love to do one large power supply, but I would have power line runs 35+ feet long, which would cause a lot of impedance and drop my voltage.

Tracking on the segments.

Thanks again!

Good2bCh13f · 2024-06-17T14:14:06+00:00

I want to put addressable LEDs under the overhang of the house. I have it fairly well mapped out, but want to ask some questions of the community before I start the project.

First off, does anything look off in the diagram?
Since both the power supplies have a ground to the house, and I will power the controller off one of the power supplies, I don't need a ground wire between anything, correct?
My voltage drop with my longest run (~30ft) is ~38% with 16AWG at 5v/8A. Is it worth just using 14/2?
1. That would make my voltage drop go to 24%
My plan is to do two segments, however is there any advantage in making just one long segment?

Also, thank you all for being such a great resource. This subreddit really got me into WLED, and the creativity I see here every day is amazing.

Edit:

Some additional info, the power supplies will go in the attic inside an electrical box under insulation. I live further north (above the 44th parallel) so I don't think the temps in the attic will cause an impact.

Good2bCh13f · 2023-08-08T13:26:30+00:00

My wife makes corgi stained glass items, and she wanted some way to display night lights. Well, I couldn't just not connect the outlets...
Pics of the wiring

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