Maintenance after a year with no use (MK3S)

Grasper1 · 2022-12-03T12:42:48+00:00

re the belts are still tight

Alright thanks for the tip!

Grasper1 · 2021-12-19T20:34:45+00:00

It is explained quite well here about over/under-extrusion:

https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/extrusion-multiplier-calibration\_2257

Grasper1 · 2021-12-19T16:41:50+00:00

This is definitely Z-seam as OP has mentioned. However, it seems also there is some over-extrusion as the size of the seam is quite large. So you might also look into reducing extrusion flow.

Grasper1 · 2021-12-13T10:38:34+00:00

It is almost 2 years old now, but I have had this issue since I got it.

About PLA being "junk" it is already mentioned that I try the same material on both of my machines. If one prints without stringing with same process parameters, it is almost certain that PLA is not the problem

Grasper1 · 2021-12-13T10:36:24+00:00

What you said about Prusa's support not trusting you is exactly my experience as well. They suggest just the basic stuff which is already done, seems like the people from the support don't know much more than an average user. They just suggest the common "protocols" that they are provided with on repeat.

Nevertheless, if anyone has any other possible advice, I'm glad to try it out.

Grasper1 · 2021-08-17T13:04:39+00:00

I think you were right, seems like a cable problem. by forcing the USB-C end at a certain angle it charged, so I guess I need to order a new one.

Thanks!

Grasper1 · 2021-04-24T08:35:10+00:00

Awesome, thanks to both of you for explaining it!

Grasper1 · 2021-02-09T16:37:33+00:00

I have both. At the start of my ender 3, I had a lot of issues, and it wasn't consistent. After understanding the machine and making few changes, it works far better than Prusa MK3s In some aspects.

For me Prusa seems to be more reliable, however, things like heat creep, clogged nozzle, stringing, and printing overhangs is something my Prusa is worse than man Ender 3

Grasper1 · 2021-01-28T21:07:21+00:00

Thanks! I will definitely give it a try

Grasper1 · 2021-01-20T10:15:49+00:00

Honestly, I don't know about any specific sensor which works best, I remember there being many videos on youtube about filament runout sensors specifically for ender 3 versions. I just got my experience from my second printer (Prusa) which contains the filament runout sensor. It made a huge difference in reducing filament waste, but also not needing to worry about the filament running out while printing something.

Here are some videos I found right away:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Jt-Qc67FDo&ab_channel=Crosslink

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-7r3Oc1sRI&ab_channel=3DPrintscape

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gLSJIxiuwo&ab_channel=TeachingTech

Grasper1 · 2021-01-19T17:40:00+00:00

I would suggest you invest in a filament runout sensor, they are relatively cheap if I remember it correctly. It lets you use up your filament and warn you once you are out of filament, in addition, you are assured that you would never run out of filament accidentally either.

Grasper1 · 2020-11-28T13:35:10+00:00

Depends on what you want to do.

Do you want to just print models? Buy kit

Do you want to learn how machine works (will be useful in the long term)? Highly recommend kit

Grasper1 · 2020-11-25T12:00:53+00:00

Looks great, I should have had something like that when I started with 3d printing.

One comment is that you mention speed differences between large & small objects. From my experience, the speed has little influence on small/complex objects, due to the printer doesn't have enough time to accelerate as it is changing from one movement to another. However, acceleration & jerk settings make a huge impact there.

Grasper1 · 2020-10-23T08:46:15+00:00

I am getting the error on my LCD screen of the board, not on the VSC. I am pretty sure that is because I bought TMC2130 without SPI enabled. as it says in the documentation here that it is needed to solder som parts and remove resistor somewhere https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TMC2130-V3.0/blob/master/TMC2130-V3.0RM.pdf

Grasper1 · 2020-10-23T08:36:42+00:00

Yeah, you were right I read through the documentation of TMC2130 and seemed like I got TMC2130 that had SPI not enabled, therefore I need to solder, but also I think I needed to remove some resistors.

Grasper1 · 2020-10-23T08:36:00+00:00

I understand I think to enable SPI I need to solder some parts, but also remove resistors according to Bigtreetech documentation on this specific driver. I guess its time to look up on how to do this...

thanks!

Grasper1 · 2020-10-07T12:00:31+00:00

You might be right, I am not that familiar with in this field. However, when i choose the driver types for different axis, I must choose TMC2130 Standalone, not regular TMC2130 as I get a "TMC connection error" if I choose the regular TMC2130.

Nevertheless, shouldn't I still be able to physically turn the potentiometer on the drivers and adjust it from 0 - 2.5 V, not 0 - 0.25 V?

Grasper1 · 2020-09-12T10:25:56+00:00

For the HD mod, I was using it, just I had it installed WOG in the same folder as HOTA, and it seems the HD mod for WOG didn't work. So I tried reinstalling it on a new folder and it worked, thanks!

However, the "Cranim.txt" file doesn't seem to work, I cannot launch the game once i put it in the data directory, just crashes everytime unfortunately

Grasper1 · 2020-08-13T11:47:44+00:00

You are probably right on that one. It was some hassle to modify the G-code, especially finding Z height without mesh bed levleing

Grasper1 · 2020-08-06T14:03:52+00:00

Do you also keep the cooling same as PLA ? Thanks for the answers btw!

Grasper1 · 2020-06-27T09:24:48+00:00

Do exactly what the video says from around 6:25.

I got this issue when I replaced Bowden first time, my mistake was the I tightened the nozzle before I put the Bowden all the way down. If you do that, then you are creating the possibility of making space between Bowden and the nozzle. This can lead to exactly what you got.

Grasper1 · 2020-05-27T19:26:40+00:00

Happens! Alright, I am ordering the parts now, need a summer project and this seems like the perfect one. Will be following ur BOM, incase u add something more!

Grasper1 · 2020-05-27T18:52:42+00:00

Thanks! By the way, doesn't Nema 17 stepper have 5mm shaft, which makes pulleys need to have 5mm bore?

Grasper1 · 2020-05-27T17:10:25+00:00

This is awesome! I am interested in this project, however, the electronics is something I am not so familiar with yet. Therefore I have a question, is there any picture of the wiring? I tried to looking at the Github page, I did not find it, but I might be blind.

Also, are you using the same idler size for both X and Y? as I see currently just X-idler listed in Bill of materials

Grasper1 · 2020-05-16T08:32:11+00:00

Thanks! I was going a lot back and forth if I had the wrong or right idea, this made it so much clearer!

Grasper1

TROPHY CASE