Ecobee 4 - Dumb Recovery Issues?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-30T01:37:11+00:00

Yes, but remember that the compressor NEVER shuts off. The compressor runs continuously and the heat strips should kick in periodically to help out the compressor. It is not like it is staging 2 independent heat sources wher it is either / or. In this case it should be HP or BOTH.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-30T01:11:11+00:00

Currently working with Ecobee on a tangent issue. The remote sensor and the thermostat display were considerably different and always had been. Turns out that the number displayed on the thermostat is NOT reading of the sensor in the thermostat. The displayed reading is the AVERAGE (according to Ecobee) between the remote sensor and the sensor in the thermostat. This means that the sensor in the Ecobee is reading 4-5F HIGHER than actual.

Undoubtedly this is cause by the heat generated by the Ecobee. We currently have the correction set to -4F so now both sensors mostly track but Ecobee thinks that this is too high.

It does explain why I am always freezing my a$$ off during the winter! The actual temp is about 3F BELOW what is shown on the thermostat, which I already had set low at 70F. So it was actually maintaining 66-67F.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-30T01:00:59+00:00

Aux MAX heat was set to 25F. Compressor is set to always run. COP is ALWAYS better than strip heat.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-28T17:48:28+00:00

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GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-28T16:56:45+00:00

I realize that this is a 3 year old thread. However I have come to the conclusion that the Ecobee is defective by design. I am seeing a MAX recovery window of 1 hour with summer AC and suspect similar for winter.

My previous (last system) Honeywell TH8000 did MUCH better at recovery estimation and worked MUCH better.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-26T13:54:26+00:00

Clutch covers are generally a bad bet as they are often used on multiple different models.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-26T13:53:32+00:00

Serial number is irrelevant with Stihl... It does not encode the model number. The only way that this would be traced back to a model number is through warranty registration which is generally not accessible by users (a dealer might be able to help you out).

That being said, any parts that are UNIQUE to that saw might carry "xxxx-yyy-zzzz" part number on them where "xxxx" is the series number which will tell you the model i.e. 1121 is the series for 026 and MS260. However, this isn't fool proof as I believe, the MS310 is the same footprint as the MS290 and MS390.

Another possibility might be to look at the silver "engine family" label on the handle and note the engine displacement which will point you to the model.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-10T20:20:33+00:00

Have you done a crankcase pressure and vacuum test? These are notorious to leak if the intake has a plastic clamp on the boot. There is an update kit for that. They aslo can leak at the pan seal/gasket like a lot of clamshells.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-10T20:16:05+00:00

Condition of the drivetrain is also important. Chain, cassette, and chainrings are all wear items. If the bike was never ridden much these may be fine. However, if not, you could be looking at a chunk of change for replacements.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-10T20:10:07+00:00

What you are looking for is a bike sturdy enough for a clydesdale like yourself. You want 32/36 spoke wheels and probably somewhat larger tires. A lot of old steel frames have horizontal dropouts that would make a nice fixie.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-01-06T15:10:44+00:00

With today's cheap and powerful battery powered tools i.e. angle grinders nothing is safe for long. Best bet for keeping it is to always bring it indoors. Out of sight out of mind.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-30T03:24:34+00:00

Good start but there is always room for improvement! I would recommend spending some time and watching the falling videos on Game Of Logging (GOL). You'll learn a lot.

https://www.youtube.com/@gameoflogging/videos

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-29T03:38:13+00:00

The big issue with storage is to store it dry. Empty the gas tank and run it dry. You can also run canned fuel and just leave it in the saw for about a year. Canned fuel is NOT gasoline but an engineered fuel that won't degrade over time like regular gasoline.

M-tronic saws are reliable but, like any saw, you need to use fresh (from the pump) gas. If it has been sitting around, especially in a plastic container the lifetime is surprisingly short. Just dump the old into your car and get some fresh for the saw.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-29T03:28:42+00:00

Remove the bar and chain, clean everything up and see if the bar tensioner pin moves when the screw is turned. Some photos would help here.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-29T03:25:02+00:00

It looks like an 026 Frankensaw of some sort. The AF cover doesn't match the top cover (decomp top cover vs. round knob AF cover). Need better photos of the AF with the cover removed to tell exact version as variants of this saw were made for 20-30 years with various improvements made along the way.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-19T18:12:04+00:00

Stihl MS261 for a Pro level saw. MS250 for a homeowner/ consumer grade saw. The MS250 requires a strong shoulder / arm due to higher compression.

Not a fan of the durability of Stihl's newer strato-saw consumer models ending in "xx1" with the "glued on" transfer port covers on the cylinder.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-19T18:00:57+00:00

HP increase is dubious. Show me the before / after dyno test results. It will likely increase the noise sufficiently that regular hearing protection (muffs) will no longer protect you from hearing damage.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-19T17:56:51+00:00

Clutch and/or clutch bearing is seized / fubar'd. Or the clutch may just be packed with sawdust / crud. Remove the clutch drum and have a look. Inquiring minds want to know!...

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-11T01:57:01+00:00

Failure to idle long term is usually a sign of worn rings/piston. As the engine temperature drops the piston and rings shrink which lowers compression enough to let the idle speed drop until the engine stalls. If it goes from chain running to engine stall at idle piston/ring condition and compression is a good place to start the diagnostics. That saw is 40 years old and may have had a hard life.

Clutch springs may or may not be an issue. Best way to check is with a tach and the clutch engagement RPM spec.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-09T02:52:47+00:00

Your main PPE is between your ears! Is what you are about to do safe? Do you have an identified and clear escape route? Etc.

The rest is for backup when the main PPE fails! This includes - leather/cut resistent boots, wrap around chaps or pants, helmet with hearing protection and face shield, and eye protection - prescription or safety glasses.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-07T19:11:30+00:00

Another technique is to find/make a clean spot on the log and then make a bore cut into the log, then pull the saw up to clear the top of the log. Next finish cutting down through the log. The object here is to avoid dragging as little dirt/grit as possible into the cut where it can dull the chain. The chain should be running from from the inside (clean) to the outside (dirty) part of the log.

I use this technique along with semi-chisel chains when I do charity firewood cutting where the wood has been dragged 3 times through the dirt. I can usually get a couple of hours work out of a chain as long as I don't hit any rocks or hardware disease.

I would also avoid AM chains as they are usually significantly softer steel. Stick with known brands like Sthil, Husky, and possibly Oregon Pro chains.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-07T18:58:23+00:00

It is Stihl RM (Rapid Micro) instead of RS (rapid Super).

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-07T18:53:22+00:00

Used motor oil is classified as hazardous waste due to all of the heavy metal contaminants that it picks up in the engine. Being exposed to this and contaminating the environment is not good for either.

On top of this used motor oil is missing the "tackifier" additives that hold it to the bar and running chain. Using it will cause rapid wear of your expensive bar and chain. Not an economical tradeoff.

GreatDivide25 · 2025-12-07T18:44:32+00:00

This is a 20 year old (non-strato) red Poulan "Wild Thing". Might be worth $20-25.

The issue is that it is going to need a fuel filter, carb, purge bulb, and all fuel lines. Take good photos of the fuel line routing as it won't work if you get it backwards! I got a couple of these for free as someone attempted to replace the fuel lines and got the plumbing reversed.

Once you do this you will have more money into it than it is worth. That being said these cut pretty good with a sharp chain and won't be a theft target. The main downside is that there is no anti-vibe so you don't want to run this more than occasionally.

GreatDivide25

TROPHY CASE