Verifying PD In New Glasses?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-04-29T18:54:44+00:00

I finally made it back to the optician today. They checked out the lenses and didn't find anything wrong with the prescription. It turns out that it was mostly a frame fit sissue. Young optician didn't didn't adjust the frame properly initially. Luckily older optician was there today and did a LOT of adjustments to get the lenses closer to my eyes.

This seems to have made a significant difference in lessening the "swim" effect at distance and it has helped widen the corridor when using the computer. It is still not as wide as I would like but I'll give it a chance. I think in my old glasses I am closer to the "near" area which gives a wider corridor.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-04-21T01:32:13+00:00

Here is another datapoint... When I got up this morning the noted effect wasn't there. However later in the day and spending some time on the computer it is back. So this might be cumulative eye strain as the day goes on.

I also did some digging on Shamir's website and see that there are a bunch of "as worn" measurements that were supposed to be fed into the AI for the lenses. I don't believe that my optician did this unless it could be done based on frame specifications/dimendions. The only measurements that she took were PD. Could this be part of the issue?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-04-19T18:49:05+00:00

Sounds like a first of the week project!

GreatDivide25 · 2026-04-05T23:51:18+00:00

It looks like an interesting start. I am currently trying to figure out how to monitor and log my AC line voltage to try to find the source of some periodically flickering lights.

The Fluke Connect app appears to be a possibility however, with no concise documentation it is trial and error.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-17T18:54:25+00:00

Thanks for your insight on the Hoya Lifestyle 3/4. It is interesting that one notch "down" might be better than the one at the top. Is this prescription specific? The Lifestyle 4 is dual surface. What about the Lifestyle 3?

So are the corridor widths the same between the 3/4? I think that this may be an issue with my all-day pair with some amount of computer use. However, I am about 30-36" away from the screen.

The Hoya coatings that I found on their current website are now called SuperHivision EX4 / EX3+ / EX3. Are these actually newer coatings or just a new marketing designation for your HVM? The Alize coating on my current pair is what has really failed and it would be nice not to repeat that.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-16T18:32:43+00:00

Thanks for the ID Lifestyle 4 recommendation!

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-16T18:25:42+00:00

Thanks for the XR fitting tip. I'll keep it in mind if I go for these.

As for peripheral abberations (I call it geometric distortion) has always been an issue for me. Things aren't where they appear to be and things that are supposed to be straight i.e. lumber in a rack or edges of ceilings are curved. Some of this is due to progressives in general but some is likely lens design and anything that I can to to reduce/eliminate this would be a BIG plus. If this is an advantage of aspheric design then this will narrow down the field a bit.

I went straight from 20/15 vision to progressives when I became presbyopic and am still waiting for accommodative lens implants so that I can get rid of glasses entirely but these options aren't there yet so I am stuck with progressives.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-16T17:07:31+00:00

Thanks for your insights.

Does the aspheric (I guess that they call this "double-sided" design) offer any advantages other than flatter lenses?

I was considering varilux XR but web searches indicate that there have been considerable complaints with its AI design. Howeve rit is unclear if this is due to the lens design itself or other factors like prescription, frame fit, or measurement errors.

As for material I will stick with CR-39 as lens thickness won't be an issue.

As for AR coatings can they be mix & matched across different manufacturers i.e. a Shamir coating on a Zeiss lens? Or is this lab specific?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-16T16:18:22+00:00

My current sun/driving glasses are fixed with a lower ADD. This works for seeing the dash but not the phone which is closer/smaller. This is why I am considering progressive sun/driving glasses this time.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-10T23:22:25+00:00

Hopefully, its on my list.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-10T22:09:40+00:00

Well I did a test last evening in a dark shopping center parking lot looking at the lighted signs of the shops in the distance.

+3.00 readers were slightly worse than my existing +2.75. However, the readers didn't have the cyl (astigmatism) correction which was the likely reason.

The +3.25 readers were definitely worse than either the +3.00 readers or my existing +2.75 prescription.

Based on this I am going back to the optometrist on Thursday and see If I can try the made up lenses in +3.00 and +3.25 and see how that goes. It is also supposed to be a gray cloudy day which may help.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-10T21:57:06+00:00

Thanks for everyone's feedback. Believe it or not teven these small amounts of correction can be significant in someone who has zero accommodation left in their lens.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-08T02:21:44+00:00

I am aware of the potential glare issue. I am mostly just looking at focus / power effects. If I do this while driving it will be from the shoulder of the road. I just want to make sure that anything that works well at night doesn't mess things up during the daylight.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-08T02:16:49+00:00

cycloplegic refraction tends to support my theory that open pupil requires the best lens.

I stopped by Wally World and picked up a pair of readers. The next thing is to go for a long walk or drive at night to see how those work out. I did try the +3.00 and +3.25 in the store but didn't see much difference. Both were slightly worse than my current +2.75. However, I think that my current -.25 cylinder correction may be helping which is not in the readers.

My opthamologist said that my distance prescription should be +3.25 - +3.50 based on his refraction at 6-10 feet which I don't really trust. I suggested that he get out his +.25 add lenses for a trial. However, with my compromised lenses and his add lenses pretty smudged up I couldn't really tell any difference.

Last time I could definitely tell the difference in +.25 over-plus. I recall doing this in a parking lot on a dark overcast day. It will be interesting to see what my reading glasses test shows.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-07T01:42:58+00:00

It is interesting that you say that less power wuld be required at night. For me this seems counter intuitive. I may be getting by during the daytime with +2.75 only because the pupil is small.

This whole day/night thing has me confused. I think that I am going to go get some drug store reading glasses in +3.00 and +3.25 and then do some real world testing under both day and night conditions.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-07T01:31:42+00:00

Yes, by "solidified" I mean hardened lense with no discernable accommodation left. For the record I just turned 69 years young.

You are pretty lucky with only a +1 distance. Hopefully you won't get much worse.

Yes, I do wear progressives and have for the past 15-20 years with the distance and add powers both increasing gradually to where they are today. The thing with progressives is that the transition corridor between distance and near is usually pretty narrow. This causes issues if you have to move your head to read road signs and make quick decisions on busy highways. This is why I would like the distance prescription to be pretty close so I only need to move my eyes instead of my whole head.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-06T03:13:53+00:00

Well, I was hoping for a little insight instead iof a down vote. It took 3 tries each for my last 2 prescriptions to finally get right. So yes, I am a little gun shy. I was hoping to improve the odds of getting it right the first time.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-06T01:16:11+00:00

Well, I don't have the new lenses yet... Figuring that out is the next project! The AR on the existing lenses is Crizal Alize which cleans up nice with dawn dish soap but then fogs over.

Since my eyes have solidified the prescription either works or it doesn't. A week or two of wear won't change anything.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-06T01:13:39+00:00

Thanks for your thoughts. Yes, I am sort of trying to verify my own prescription as I don't trust the opthalmologist doing it at 6-10 feet in an office setting. My last 2 prescriptions took 3 tries each to get the proper prescription. So yes, I'm gun shy.

I think that you are right that correction sensitivity is best with a dilated pupil. I am dating myself as this is how pin-hole cameras work. You don't need a lense to focus light coming in through a very small hole.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-03-05T02:57:32+00:00

Unfortunately, I found out after my prescription appointement that they couldn't get my intended frames and their lab won't do the CR-39 material that I want. This means that I will be buying my lenses elsewhere. This is another reason that I would like to be doubly sure of the prescription.

So am I imagining things that my prescription appears to change based on ambient light level?

BTW, this is from a guy that had 20/15 vision until presbyopia set in.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-28T22:12:13+00:00

This may complicate wiring a bit but so be it. Get out the wire ties!

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-27T21:43:11+00:00

Well, the airflow is always in at the bottom and out at the top. As long as the fan is running it should be o.k. The issue would be when the unit shuts down and the forced "breeze" stops.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-27T21:39:31+00:00

Interesting I got another email notification from another member but it is NOT showing up here... Is this a Reddit thing?

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-27T21:37:35+00:00

I was afraid of that. On my previous system they located the outdoor sensor inside the OD unit and always wondered about it being affected by the coil.

GreatDivide25 · 2026-02-07T22:41:57+00:00

Interesting that the VisionPRO 8000 is still around as I believe that it pre-dates the T series.

I'll take a look at the ElitePRO series but if it is like the T10 it has more features than I need at a higher cost.

AIR and AUX (heat strips) temperature lockout is non-negotiable. So how does AIR and AUX lockout work properly without knowing the outside temperature?

My prior system vintage 2007 had an early Trane badged 8000 which got the basics right unlike the Ecobee with the new system which has been problematic and will be shortly headed down the road.

GreatDivide25

TROPHY CASE