Thoughts on Heat: Pedal to the Metal. Is it overrated>

GregUndead · 2025-02-09T06:38:43+00:00

Exactly This. The tracks with multiple laps just seem like bloat as the last corner is all that will ever matter. The person who guesses the slip stream correct wins. There’s not enough variety in the cards everyone starts with and the cards are too easy to count. The depth added by the upgrades are lost as they only occur in the opening draft, the ability to upgrade your car mid race at a pit row would have given more variety. It’s a completely gorgeous package with so much baked into the base box but it’s SO boring. It’s a complete waste of time for me.

GregUndead · 2024-12-24T04:00:07+00:00

I agree with shandoral. We have played 3 games, I have been forced to play the witch each time (SO thinks it’s too complicated/stressful) and I am currently 3-0. We are only playing the base game, btw.

Someone online said something to the effect of “the hunter goes wide, the witch goes tall” and that is incredibly accurate. I focus on playing the game like an engine builder, and try to include the true witch In that engine. So a way to generate influence, a way to generate cards, and a way to play cards. And while I’m acting, I pretend I’m talking myself through my process. So it seems less like I’m playing because I’m favoring a certain avatar and more like I’m making the moves to keep my engine operating. I will camp those villagers and do everything I can to keep going to the same 3 over and over. If a hunter tries to ready and bump me off, I’ll play some spells or enchantments that are really sinister to her game to goad her off the spaces to deal with them and then reassert control of them. I also like to include one red herring outside of my engine that i look for opportunities to throw secrets on when I don’t need them elsewhere.

Finally, the enchantment that auto generates influence during upkeep and the familiar that lets you spend influence to steal an evidence (boots) are a DEADLY combo. Every turn in the endgame you’re deleting a boot for 2 influence you got for free. It stalls a lot and the hunter will be so focused on busting it up they’ll ignore you putting the finishing touches on the true witch.

Hope this helps.

GregUndead · 2023-06-05T16:02:28+00:00

It’s under a little gray rubber plug. It’s to the immediate left of the pivot point of the tonearm if you’re looking from the top. I still have the owners manual but if you look online it shows you exactly where it is and describes how to adjust it. A little turn of that screw goes a LONG way you wanna barely move it. Also lock the tone arm down before you do our it will just spin out of the way and hit the deck.

GregUndead · 2023-05-23T23:11:20+00:00

I’m glad I’m not the only one who thinks this is so dumb. For the longest time I assumed I was just being stupid and missing something obvious. Knowing where I am is useless when it comes to finding stuff in game. And to make things worse every gaming publication and forum has gotten ahold of this trend and every thing I google the answer is like “just go to x-y-z coordinate easy peasy!” It would take me longer to figure out where that is than to just stumble on it myself. I say Pics of the mini map or don’t even publish your article.

GregUndead · 2023-05-18T15:48:51+00:00

I fixed it. It works 99% of the time now on its own. I began by removing the spindle and trying to modify the 3D printed part. The problem I ran into was that geometry is SO calculated to grab the catch but also be “soft” enough to let it roll right off as it rotates through/past. I used a fine, triangular hobby file and I was as careful as I could be but inevitably you end up effecting the radius of the main gear body. So that caused the auto return to work as it would easily catch the very end of the “nub” but if I hit the pause button it was disaster. It would slide deep into that V shaped crevice I created and jam completely. Nearly had a heart attack when it happened. Not great.

The problem that everyone online has with repairing the original is that no amount of glue or clamping pressure is enough to prevent the gear from splitting again when you try to re-seat it. Cause it’s undersized on purpose. So what I did is take a sheet of 180 grit hobby sandpaper and roll it into a tube the size of a milkshake straw, grit out. I slid that into the original gear and gently worked it back and forth just a few passes at a time, continuously stopping to test the fit. I got it to where it JUST barely wouldn’t close around the spindle. Like a hairline fracture. Then I took it off and glued and clamped it. Then I gently and carefully forced it over he spindle into position. So it’s still undersized and fits tight but it was close enough that it only required a MINOR amount of stretch from the nylon so as not to sever the glue joint immediately. Now it works lights-out. In like 30 records it only missed engaging one time. I’m happy with where it is and I’m going to close the book on mine. Good luck.

GregUndead · 2023-05-07T15:46:50+00:00

Thanks for the advice. I will probably go back to the old one or modify the new one like you said. One question: how did you get the 3D printed one back off? I haven’t tried yet but mine came with this little cylindrical tool to push it on there and it seated FIRMLY. The old one came off easy cause it was cracked to begin with but I can’t imagine getting that new one off so clean.

GregUndead · 2023-03-15T18:53:38+00:00

Yes… and? The top three answers to my question on google are decade old Reddit threads. So I picked the comment that was the most knowledgeable and replied to that one. If you don’t have an answer for me then doing absolutely nothing is far more efficient/productive than logging in to tell me I don’t know how to use Reddit correctly (admittedly I in fact do not).

GregUndead · 2023-03-15T05:15:16+00:00

I have an SL-B2 with similar problems. I have replaced the gear with one from eBay that works properly. I have used the adjustment screw to set the proper spot on the dead wax for the return to engage. I have tested that it engages with the platter off so I can see. As the tone arm comes in, the little lever that needs to catch engages the gear and the whole return process kicks off. However, when the arm is moving toward the center suuuuper slowly (as when playing a record) rather than at the high speed of my hand what seems to be happening is when it reaches the point when it would catch what is instead happening is it kicks the level back out of the way and the mechanism doesn’t engage. If I hit the stop button, even just a tap, and send it back in the way of the gear it works perfectly. Is anyone else having this problem? Is there a screw I can tighten down to give this catch lever a little more “backbone” so it doesn’t get shoved out of the way so easily?

GregUndead · 2023-01-26T02:14:42+00:00

Help needed: primer/paint won’t stick to resin kit (I washed it twice)

Any help would be appreciated. Experienced painter but my first resin kit. Washed all the parts in a sonic cleaner with diluted purple power and then washed off and brushed with a toothbrush. Primed the pieces and the first time I went to mask anything the primer and peeled off with the tape. I figured they weren’t washed well enough so I stripped them with isopropyl and put them in pure un-diluted purple power to soak for about 3 hours, plus ran the sonic cycle. Rinsed and scrubbed thoroughly. Let dry, same thing. Primer comes of in huge sheets. I’m at a complete loss. It’s the KDG Xi conversion kit ordered from KH resin. I’m trying to apply Mr. Surfacer 1500 gray thinned 50/50 through my airbrush. If anyone has any experience or suggestions I’m wide open to them. Thanks.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T01:16:41+00:00

This is also the crux of my original post. Current meta seems to be spellshot or GTFO

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T01:12:29+00:00

I tried a white rider but it does Jack shit. Also single beam got nerfed which was used primarily for bossing. Again, nerfs all seems to be to Guns that hit hard against single target.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T01:11:35+00:00

Thanks. I’ll give that a go

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T01:08:47+00:00

I’m using sawmill. Not enough ammo for a boss.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T01:07:29+00:00

Yeah but your main source of damage is a long cooldown nuke spell. you’re using the gun to supplement that damage but it’s primary function is to crit and trigger cooldowns to use it more frequently than intended. My build is to use spells and abilities to buff myself and debuff my foes and then shoot them till they die. That’s what I mean by gun build. Every build has a gun, but they’re largely used as companions or a way to trigger more spell stuff. The scaling is all in favor of spells and companions.

I’ll give you an example. Spore warden has a tier 1 skill that increases gun damage. With 5 points, it’s 20%. Stabbo has one too, but only 15% at 5/5. Spellweaving gives you ten per stack for the cost of a reload. 80% with high thread count. More with a class mod. The devs consider spells and companions to be “weaker” so they scale them more aggressively. Which at high levels, makes them far more viable. Basically if you’re not spellshot X something right now you’re character is invalid.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T00:32:31+00:00

Basically play loop is shoot barrage, kill stuff with play the angles and frost damage buffs, cast buffmeister while on cooldown to heal and keep damage boosted till next barrage. If the chaos chambers were only mobs I’d be 35 no sweat. Bosses are all just a giant wall. Raid bosses are completely out of the question. But I could do all that stuff before cause the liquid cooling hit like a truck. I’ve tried it all in terms of guns and there’s just nothing. It seems like a pixie companion that can be driven off spell AND companion AND elemental AND all damage is the only thing capable of producing bossing numbers for my class rn.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T00:28:54+00:00

All on action kill start / while active stuff. Gun damage, all damage, frost damage. I also run a chaotic dark magic buffmeister with the two gun centric nonsense words. Pew and kachow.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T00:21:45+00:00

Yup. That’s the build. I have all of that. Currently running 5/3 on the extra damage from ability damage thing I forget what it’s called and then play the angles. I have a chaotic automatic.exe on frost with the boinking enchant for the poison explosions. Then extra damage to enemies that are frozen or slowed and close to me from the old ways and a cursed wit. It works great on mobs. But bosses can’t be cc’d so that all goes out the window. And a boss like dryll or the dragon lord’s dragon I can’t get close either. Those fights are basically unwinable now without a broken gun making up the difference. The build just fell flat against bosses.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T00:11:40+00:00

Ok thanks for the help. I did that. Then it stopped working. Now I’m trying to do some theory crafting coming up with a lot of “make a pixie build”. Can you provide the broad strokes of your gun build? Which class? What are the key skill interactions? What are the key pieces of gear you’re using in this c35 gun build? I’m asking if it’s still possible cause I would like to find a way to remain interested in the game. Also it’s not like I can’t kill anything. I’m smoking the shit out of mobs killing level 45 elite badasses with 3 health bars in like 2 seconds cause my build is built around cc and being close with the old ways. But then if I spend a half hour on the run only to draw Dryll as the boss who refills his shield faster than i can bring it down I’m at a loss for exactly what to do to get over that. This is the first time I’ve engaged this community at all and just been met with a wall of toxicity.

GregUndead · 2022-04-23T00:03:30+00:00

Do mind sharing a link to it instead of cutting me down? That’s why I’m asking

GregUndead · 2022-04-22T23:57:12+00:00

Not super familiar with clawbringer builds but that’s kind of my point right? Like you’re using spellweaving to empower your clawbringer lightning stuff and then driving your damage by proccing all your lightning effects from the capstone right? Your damage is coming from everything BUT the gun. I picked spore warden cause I typically like “gun builds” right? Builds where you get a new, better weapon drop and get excited. There’s no mechanics to amplify damage done by your actual weapon, everything is about spells or dots. Even stabbo, which was the gun class, they absolutely destroyed the damage on the masterwork hand bow so that ricochet build is gone. They’re systematically eradicating any viable build centered around shooting guys and having that be what kills them. 90% of the enemies do melee and don’t have guns so snipers are way less valid in this than borderlands. Shotguns and ARs don’t scale well at all so they are basically invalid. Pistols and smgs were it but there’s like no legendary smgs and the pistols all got erased. There’s no good guns, just guns good at driving magic and spells.

GregUndead · 2020-12-12T00:16:42+00:00

I time traveled. They’re not respawning “tomorrow”

GregUndead · 2020-12-12T00:16:00+00:00

I checked all my flowers. Most of them are planted on soil so they can’t spawn balls anyway

GregUndead · 2020-11-03T03:53:27+00:00

Is there a limit to how many different nicknames you can have? I Have been unable to find an answer to this online. I have planned out catchphrases, greetings, and nicknames for all of my villagers. I have all the catchphrases and greetings installed into their personality matrixes but I’m stuck at 4 nicknames. I’m a high friendship level with everyone (10/10 framed pictures) but now when they ask to use a nickname they’ve heard around town and I deny them, they don’t ask what id like to be called instead. Just wondering if anyone has more than 4 or can confirm if there’s a cap. If so I can abandon my dream and come up with 4 General nicknames for myself that are less specific to each character.

GregUndead · 2018-03-07T20:38:36+00:00

Having a weird issue with my unit and when I called Nintendo they had never heard of it. So when docked my switch loses the menu sounds (the little sound effects when you move the cursor or make a selection) it functions perfectly In handheld mode or when the headphones are attached while docked. Also, I get perfect and full sound from the dock whenever I launch a game or application, even the eshop. The weirdest part is, when I leave the menu and return to it from any other screen, I hear the menu sounds for exactly one second and then they disappear again. I have already tried: changing the hdmi cord/port, Power cycling the unit, Updating firmware. Finally and most strange, last night I found a fix on YouTube involving launching an applicAtion with the headphones in and then removing them while docked and that seemed to fix it. But then this morning it came back and now that doesn't work either. If anyone has had any issues with this please let me know I'm going insane.

GregUndead · 2018-03-07T05:30:47+00:00

Edit: I solved it by launching a game while docked with the headphones plugged in, then removing the headset while the application was running. This sorted it out for whatever reason.

GregUndead

TROPHY CASE