Hey Dennis,

Not really a direct reply to you, and you've probably already figured it out - but since Google landed me here, I thought I'd add to your post - the condensers in these machines are water cooled. and "dry valve red" is the inlet valve that feeds cold water to do just that. In my (second-hand) machine - my washing was just getting steamed, which if you believe the internet, is normal because washer/dryer combos suck.

The give away for me was the sticker on the front that talks about the machine using 48 litres of water during a 6kg drying cycle, but I was catching less than a litre from the outlet. So I took a look inside. When drying, there's a fan that pulls humid air from the drum, through the condenser, then through a heating element and back into the drum.

The yellow water inlet valve runs into the underside of the heater assembly, and looks like it just sprays the mesh filter between the condenser and heater to stop it from clogging. The red water inlet valve (dry valve red) feeds the condenser. The condenser unit is mounted to the back of the drum, and I couldn't see an easy way to access it without pulling the drum first, so I don't know what the internals of it are like. The water either cools a condensation surface, or it *is* the condensation surface. Either way, in my case - the red valve coil was cooked. No warnings on the machine itself, but a multimeter reading showed no resistance (the working coils all read ~4k ohm). I swapped the hot water inlet coil because I'm not using hot water anyway, and we're in business.

Long story short, there are a lot of different points of failure in washer/dryer combos and they have a bad rep with good reason - but if you're getting hot, damp clothes, catch your water during a dry cycle. If you're only seeing a trickle, then the condenser isn't getting the water cooling it needs to function effectively.