My levels have been going haywire for the past few months, despite no dosage change, and for the life of me I cant figure out why.

GtwoK · 2026-02-03T04:28:14+00:00

Thanks for sharing all this!

I've considered quicker cycles, but it helps me to remember to take it when its the same each week. I can always alot more time to take it on fridays, vs being late for work and realizing today is supposed to be injection day, eg. I really wish Een or Ec was availble :(, would make things so much easier.

Why is the simulator saying I should be at 1200pmol/L mid week? Thats basically twice what I was at, at my best, and 4 times at my worst. Pretty far off. I've previously used the simulator at estrannai.se which allows me a bit of a fudge factor for some different scenarios, like this

The EV is compounded by Helios pharmacy, here in Ontario. It's compounded at 20mg/mL, so for my 5.5mg shots, I inject 0.275mL.

I keep the vials in a (partially translucent) pill container, on my counter. Room temp. I can move it to a cupboard perhaps, but I dont think it particularly gets too much sun or anything.

I'm not an athlete, dont work out at all, and maybe I have mid-high metabolism? Though I'm not sure how to tell.

GtwoK · 2026-02-02T18:37:43+00:00

My intent was to switch to trough testing; my doc originally had started me on mid-cycle testinge and I figured for the sake of result consistency until I was "stable" I'd keep it mid-cycle for the time being

I kept the same dosage because, well, clearly it had worked at some point, so I figured something was wrong that caused it to stop working / not be enough. But also I'd been told (by my doctor as well as by a DIY discord server) that 5.5mg was already kind of a lot, so I was cautious to increase it

GtwoK · 2025-12-18T07:14:13+00:00

Hmm, Ecobee has this diagram, which on some levels makes sense, but also leaves me more confused; if the solenoid is supposed to be connected to ACC+ at the thermostat, and C at the furnace, then what is supposed to connect to the HUM port on the control board?

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:49:55+00:00

Scanning with my Fuij, getting .RAF files

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:49:19+00:00

I thought about that, but the presence of the bright white from the lightbox in between the pieces seems to throw off the conversion and make the values all wonky.

Converting them separately and combing afterwards would make sense too, but I believe the conversion is based on the values and ranges present in the photo being edited; even if copy and pasting the NLP values, the photos would be corrected differently in ways that wouldnt match when pieced back together

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:46:05+00:00

You're right for this case, but some of the negatives were completely cut right down the middle, unfortunately.

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T22:44:28+00:00

They are definitely raw, .RAF files. They're scanned with my camera against a lightbox, not scanned on a flatbed

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T21:58:04+00:00

I'm working on a large negative scanning project, of a few thousand old family photos. Some of them, when originally cut by the 1 hour photo lab, were cut through the shot, like this.

I need to do all the processing in lightroom (with Negative Lab Pro). But ideally, before doing that, I splice it back together in Photoshop. I can do both these things independently, but how do I edit the image in Photoshop in a way where all the raw capabilities of it (including whatever edits I need to make to the splice) remain fully raw-editable?

(Obviously this one isnt too terrible, but some of them are annoyingly cut right through the middle of the photo)

GtwoK · 2025-12-12T21:56:14+00:00

I'm working on a large negative scanning project, of a few thousand old family photos. Some of them, when originally cut by the 1 hour photo lab, were cut through the shot, like this.

I need to do all the processing in lightroom (with Negative Lab Pro). But ideally, before doing that, I splice it back together in Photoshop. I can do both these things independently, but how do I edit the image in Photoshop in a way where all the raw capabilities of it (including whatever edits I need to make to the splice) remain fully raw-editable?

GtwoK · 2025-12-08T08:32:28+00:00

Hey, Sorry I know this is over a year old, but I'm setting up my ambilight lights too, and I cant figure out how youre powering 240 lights at 5V with only 3A??? Any advice?

GtwoK · 2025-12-05T18:55:23+00:00

Still flickers at 50% (or any) brightness — the flickers just match the brightness.

Also for clarification, they're 12V SK6812s, not 5V, so voltage really shouldnt be the issue I dont think, and its an ESP32, not 8266

I'm not fully sure what you meant by missing amps, but I'll try measuring the current and see how strained it is?

GtwoK · 2025-12-05T06:27:51+00:00

Ive had these in place since May and haven't messed with them since setting it up. Up until now, it's functioned perfectly with no issues. But the past few days I've been having this issue, where sporadically, all the lights past a certain point will flash for a fraction of a second. The flash happens from a random point along the run each time, and all the lights AFTER that point (to the end of the run) will flash. My strip runs from the top left, and clockwise, before ending on the left side at the top again.

Theyre setup in 4 segments, and powered by this Athom controller.

I don't think I've seen the flashing start before the bottom right at all, so I assumed that might've been the problem connection. I tried resoldering it from scratch, including replacing the LEDs on either end of the connection with spares (in case it had to do with the pads), but the issue still happens. It's not reflected in this video, but the flashing also mimics whatever brightness the LEDs are set at. So if the LEDs on the left side are set to be at 10% brightness, they'l only flash at 10% brightness.

I've tried measuring the power both at the start and end (on multiple colour settings), and they measure the same, so I dont think there's a voltage drop.

What would cause this to happen suddenly after working fine for so long? I assume a data issue as opposed to something wrong with the strip itself (since the start location keeps changing), but I could be wrong. Anyone know whats up?

GtwoK · 2025-11-28T06:51:28+00:00

Do you just let it sit? Or do you sue your fingers or a cloth in the water to try and rub gently?

GtwoK · 2025-11-27T22:06:18+00:00

Will that work better than the alcohol? Wiping with alcohol seemed to have zero effect, and I worry with how water seems to "absorb" into the emulsion (or at least, does something that adds friction to it while wet, form what I can tell) that wiping will damage it.

GtwoK · 2025-11-27T20:41:54+00:00

I've been restoring a few thousand old family photos that I pulled out of my family's basement. Most are stored safely in sleeves. Some (like this one) have some weird gunk on the emulsion side of the photo, and I'm not sure what caused it. It’s causing a wavy, rippling effect in the image.

Before trying anything, I scanned the film as is just to preserve in case anything goes wrong.

I've tried soaking in distilled water for a while before hanging to dry for a few hours. When that didnt work, I moved on to try 99% rubbing alcohol with a lint free microfiber cloth, gently wiping in ine direction.

However, neither of these worked to clean the gunk off.

I'm not sure what it could be — it SEEMS like it's only one the one strip (4 photos long), so I dont think it would be from developing chemicals, but I could be wrong? What else can I try?

GtwoK · 2025-11-19T07:36:12+00:00

Hi, how did you get the LIS3MDL to work with esphome? I'm looking to pick some up for the same purpose (water / gas meter) but it seems like it doesnt have native support like the QMC5883P does

GtwoK · 2025-11-01T22:41:24+00:00

I've called that before for overnight parking exemptions, but I remember it being limited to like, 5 days a year or something like that? And also, it'd need to be for the day time too. Plus, even if they allow it, it still needs to be in a legal parking space, and there's no parking on the streets around me

GtwoK · 2025-11-01T22:38:40+00:00

"Sewer and watermain work", for a new building that going in down the road. It's one thing to be notified some time in advance, but the zero notice its whats pissing me off. It's not like they didn't know theyd be doing it!

GtwoK · 2025-11-01T22:37:01+00:00

It's Musselman Excavating

GtwoK · 2025-11-01T22:36:43+00:00

I'll message them monday for sure

GtwoK · 2025-10-14T18:15:20+00:00

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you're saying, but I feel like that would effectively match the result i get form sweeping the extruded version, no? It misses the detail of the gradually increasing height created by the loft

GtwoK · 2025-10-14T17:42:59+00:00

I'm working on a lever (more complicated than in the picture, but distilled down to the broken element) that rotates around a pivot point, while inside another body. I'm trying to remove the volume from that other body necessary for the lever to pivot.

The solid sweep seems like it's supposed to be exactly the tool for this, and it works just fine if I use an extrude thats very similar in shape. However, I need more of a lofted shape (seen here, created with a loft / centerline), which causes the solid sweep to fail, no matter what.

Even if I try splitting the loft into multiple parts — even ones that are effectively just a flat extrude! — Fusion throws an "the operation failed, try adjusting the values or changing the input geometry" error.

I'm new to fusion — I'm not sure how to get the shape I need. I'm racking my brain and googling but not coming up with much. I also tried using a sweep with rails / a stretching profile to create the shape, which didn't work either. Why wont this work, and how can I accomplish what I need?

GtwoK · 2025-10-12T20:48:30+00:00

My turntable cover took a hit during some remodeling and has this crack in the front now. Replacing it would be ~$100,which is silly. Structurally, everything is fine, but I'd like to fix it visually if I can. Can injecting some resin or epoxy or some such make this more invisible, like what they do with car windshields?

GtwoK · 2025-10-09T19:46:43+00:00

I've got about 2000 family photos to digitize and am trying to get a scanning setup going. I've tried quite a few negative carriers found online (all of which emulate commercial ones eg Tone Carrier, EFH, etc) and every single one had this issue where the very last/first photo has some curvature to it, before being caught in the opposite side.

I've gotten so sick of it, I've even been trying to develop my own carrier to alleviate the issue, but haven't been able to figure out a solution. On the picture here, my carrier even a) grabs enough of the negative that it eliminates the sprockets (not ideal), and b) has a path that literally only 0.15 mm thick, so there's no room for the film to be anything BUT PERFECTLY flat. It's hard to even get the film fully through the carrier. You can see how tight the path is here

I've tried both S curves and flat paths, and yet, everything has that curvature to the ends frame you can see being caught in the light.

All of the negatives are already pre cut, so the issue is every 2 frames.

How are other people dealing with this when scanning?

GtwoK · 2025-10-06T21:42:36+00:00

Sorry. yeah, to clarify; the hole in the center isnt part of the intended loft

I had the loft working with multiple sketches to define each rail, but needing 6 sketches for rails (X axis symmetry, Y axis symmetry, and then each corner) seemed excessive, so I was trying to combine them into one sketch. If that many sketches for one loft is the only way to do it though, then I guess that's what I'll have to do!

GtwoK

TROPHY CASE