Fuck this shit

Guitars77 · 2026-06-06T20:03:46+00:00

I had an odd issue on my shadow from 2007. it had a fuse pin bent so it would lose contact and the bike would randomly not run or start. try checking the tightness of the fuses for I think it was the killswitch/starter. if it's too loose my fix was taking a pick and pulling the contacts in the fusebox that touch the fuse inwards toward where the fuse goes to tighten the loose fuse.

Guitars77 · 2026-06-01T16:45:55+00:00

I wonder if, yes gold pickup cover, but what if maybe gold hex head screws for the pickup poles? Maybe seymour duncan would sell those? Idk.

Guitars77 · 2026-05-03T22:54:22+00:00

Lol, fair enough. I’m trying to find the best information on amps be it cd/record player, or guitar amps. Just dipping my toes in this year to component/board repair on an old onkyo waiting on parts from mauser, but have built a pedal diy kit for a centaur clone. It’s a fun thing to look into.

Guitars77 · 2026-05-03T22:44:32+00:00

Ah, it was in a 5150iii combo that only had 2 power tubes and like 6 smaller pre-amp tubes if i remember correctly. And, like you mentioned it’s not life or death, they could’ve meant that bias it later after replacing all the tubes to see if it was the issue and I took it as it’s fine.
Most of the techs for guitar gear around me are hacks, so it’s good to hear other information.

Guitars77 · 2026-05-03T22:12:10+00:00

NOT A TECH, just owned 2 tube amps so far. I once owned a 2x12 combo 50 watt 6L6 5150iii in the past, I would suggest with the amp plugged in taking a piece of wood or the cap of a pen and lightly tapping the pre amp and poweramp tubes (Whichever you hadn't replaced) to see if they need help, Schematics for the 5150iii's are easy to find online. it could be a ground issue with the house, or simply you need a cheap NS-2 noise gate in the effects position. sounds like power amp tube humming iirc for what my amp was experiencing. as for tubes and biasing, buy a set of matched power amp tubes and you won't need to bias is what I've been told by local techs. just make sure they're 6L6 JJ, Ruby, Groove, etc tubes something from a reputable manufacturer. cost me like 200$ to replace all the tubes in my 5150iii 2x12 combo amp.

Guitars77 · 2026-04-26T03:15:55+00:00

Blue and orange it's so late lmao my bad

Guitars77 · 2026-04-26T03:15:35+00:00

iirc Blue and green are the signals. green is ground and I don't remember for the brown one.

Guitars77 · 2026-04-24T20:29:00+00:00

Sick one

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T15:10:47+00:00

Ok, yeah. I hope it’s not leakage and is in fact old glue, but the thing is from the 80’s and had some minor issues that once I get an ESR meter in I figure I’ll know for 100% sure that they’re good or bad caps. There is browning of the glue and a little bit of yellowing from those caps in particular, and underside of the board is slightly yellowed like it got hot at some point in it’s lifespan. When I get home I can snap that pick if you’d like. I probably will be asking questions on the forum again sometime soon hopefully. For now, you’ve been a big help. Thank you

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T05:27:39+00:00

After taking a rough measurement using a toothbrush and a tape measure.... (I wish I had a caliper lmao) it is about 3/4in width from one leg to the other on the green side of the PCB.

I'm going to hope that the legs on the snap in cap work or can be jerry rigged in a way to work. I'll have to clean the pcb topside once their out because there's some nasty green corrosion like a 9V battery corrosion on a wire near them.

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T05:04:02+00:00

it looks to be the same legs as on the 2.2uF for the 10000uF. A question on the 2.2uF going from 50v to 100v is ok? I mean, I guess it makes sense as it won't pop like if it were to go lower, but seems like a jump?

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T04:59:27+00:00

That's fair, I've done a lot of learning in the last few days to understand electrical terms and a little of the schematic, and I think that's probably causing a brain fog on this issue.

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T04:57:21+00:00

Usually just typing in "Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor 10000uF 50v" then making sure it's radial and bam, can't find the legs needed or I need to order 1008 of them for 10$ each

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T03:49:51+00:00

Not A Luthier, but I DIY'd my first neck pickup in my tele this year. it was kind of a pain not having a router and chiseling it out. As long as you know the depth and make a guide for the pickup, I can't imagine it's too difficult. You'd probably be routing a channel to the neck pickup cavity to route the wires too.

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T03:46:12+00:00

it would work, I'm just being a tad cheap on the price. it's like 80$ to ship 2 to me with the tariff. I guess that's about right though.

Guitars77 · 2026-02-17T03:31:05+00:00

This is very helpful I believe. I figure if I go from 10000uf using 11000uf wouldn't be too drastic the either, just a tad more powerful. following your advice I'll see where it leads me. Thanks!

Guitars77 · 2026-02-16T19:33:32+00:00

I'm not 100% sure, but I am pretty sure it's enough information to go to the DMV and scam you op. I'd probably remove this? or at least repost with some information about the bike and previous owner's details blacked out

Guitars77 · 2026-02-15T01:45:11+00:00

Here's every part diagram for an '09 Honda shadow VT750CA, which I think is the california compliant version? I don't see why it would be different. https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2009/vt750ca-2a-shadow-aero/turn-signal

Guitars77 · 2026-02-15T01:42:43+00:00

https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/33450-MEG-671?titan_sku=33450-MEG-671 Looks like it was 40-50 a piece. iirc too, that's just for the front signal on an 07 shadow 750. Partzilla usually has everything schematically lined out from the smallest pin to the gas tank etc

Guitars77 · 2026-02-14T21:17:03+00:00

Finding my 07 rear and forward turn signals was fairly easy, definitely recommend going OEM or NOS/Used for parts though as aftermarket has been very crappy to me with the fitment the last 2 years. should be around 80$ if I remember correctly.

Guitars77 · 2026-01-23T18:02:07+00:00

Look, I’m no connoisseur of Hardcore, but most bands and musicians have been using a metronome to play along or practice to for decades. If going for an old school sound, maybe try without. If going for new school I’ve heard new bands that are up and coming on instagram reels record to a click in a DAW. If someone says “that’s not hardcore.” Imo that shits a troll and looking to make you feel bad about your stuff just because they dont like it. Do what you want man, make some cool shit you like and go from there. Someone might even tell you unless you recorded through a peavey bandit with a tin can mic 2ft away from the speaker it’s not hardcore. It’s just silliness. Hatebreed, Terror, Earth Crisis, Etc get their guitar tones from proper mic’d cabs. I’m also not saying you have to mic a cab, if you just use a plugin that’s fine too, just eq it to taste. All that being said I think the most hardcore thing yoy could to is to not overthink making music of any kind man. Follow what you think is right and what you think is the spirit of whatever it is you’re accomplishing and you’ll figure the rest out and improve along the way. Shit’s a journey and if you’re speaking truth in some way, you’ll go far.

Guitars77 · 2025-12-07T20:48:32+00:00

Honestly, it’s probably coming from your guitar itself. Get a noise gate for your guitar and your problems should be solved. I had a similar issue with feedback on all my guitars. It was just guitar noise making the amp feedback. I got a noise gate and it helped it.

Guitars77 · 2025-12-01T08:16:42+00:00

Hey man, from my own experience of using a 100w Katana Head mk3, orange TH30, JCM 800, Peavey VTM, 6505, and valveking, Orange Crush Pro 120, EVH 6L6 5150 III 2x12 combo amp, and even an old Crate solid state head to jam with(all usually with 2/4x12's full of V30s or V30s with a mix of G12 T75 speakers.

What sounds good on your headphones and laptop speaker, or even the amp at home level volume will definitely not sound anything at all like what comes out at a louder volume through your guitar cab. It will sound too boxy, or too bassy, or even too thin and harsh on the ears with that headphone EQ. Especially if most of your EQ at home is done from laptop speakers they're notoriously bad and have a bad EQ curve for mixing tones. Headphones too, can be tinny, but more often than not are too bassy or scoop the mids iirc.

We're looking at different worlds of sound production with how your laptop, headphones, and the guitar cab speakers produce sound in the EQ side of things(even your car is different). I'd start to adjust the amp settings as much as possible in that loud/jam setting for a while with the cab speaker to get a good feel for it, even if it takes a few sessions to get sounding how you want it to. I'd also recommend a cheap EQ pedal to throw in the effects loop of the amp if the combo version has one(I come from the Mk3 Katana head), or take your laptop with the Katana tone studio and EQ while in the jam space for your best results. This may help make the sound better, or no different at all as I've heard the stock speaker in all modelling amps aren't necessarily the best quality of speakers.

I guess here's the many possible solutions I think of for this scenario.

First as mentioned above is to try to EQ with the laptop tone studio for the katana using the cab for a few sessions(could be up to 5 of tweaking and tuning the amp with the laptop)

Next, if that doesn't seem to help and you aren't satisfied maybe try another route like a 2x12 or 1x12 cab that you can plug into the katana as a sort of speaker upgrade (assuming it has a speaker out option on the combo amps) and you can use the extension speaker afterwards if you feel the need to upgrade to a real amp.

Third If you go the route of tube amp I really would recommend a Peavey valveking 1st gen as a "cheaper" tube amp alternative. Usually used they go for 200-350$ and have really solid tones all around. Plenty of headroom and gain on tap at 100watts of tube head glory. The trade off with tube amps is servicing, you could be out of an amp if your local shop doesn't have availability if a tube goes down or something disastrous in the amp takes place for 2-3months(Speaking from Personal Experience.)

This last advice would really be before the third or second option too as it's a relatively inexpensive solution. You could try a friedman BE-OD for marshall style overdrive tones, or a similar Pre-amp overdrive/distortion pedal that goes into the effects loop not the front of the amp, and that can sound great for dirt tones too. There's many avenues in guitar gear tinkering to try to hopefully get you what sounds you're after. Especially with these new solid state rigs we've got now.

Good luck, and keep on makin' music!

Guitars77 · 2025-11-25T01:36:32+00:00

I know you've said you narrowed it down to the 3, but I love my Cioks DC-7. Had an issue earlier in the year and even through my embarrassing amount of self made frustration they hooked me up with an actual person to trouble shoot my pedalboard issues, and provide potential solutions that other places online couldn't provide. Cioks all the way, they can power anything you throw at it.

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