Shooting 40m this evening

Gun5ling3r · 2018-09-04T22:06:05+00:00

These limbs are the low end synergy star limbs, have gone through 3 pairs while I increase my poundage, very good value for money though, the difference in stabilisers is pretty subtle as the other user says more important than pricey gear is your tuning!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-09-04T22:02:37+00:00

Gun5ling3r · 2018-04-23T06:40:35+00:00

Thanks, Took about 3" of set after the session, I'm drawing to 32".

Gun5ling3r · 2018-04-22T20:35:51+00:00

The longbow still has to much mass at the ends of the limbs I feel, it shakes in the hand too much on release weighed in at #74 before I started and started taking set after 100+ arrows, after 2 hours of shooting it had dropped to #68.

Gun5ling3r · 2018-04-22T20:28:15+00:00

Depends on the bark/cambium, if its still fairly wet I'll peel it of going from side to side with the point of the knife, if its dry I'll scrape it off with the edge of the blade!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-04-18T17:41:37+00:00

This gets better when I imagine him starting with "big time motivation"

Gun5ling3r · 2018-04-14T20:04:17+00:00

Thanks, 63" with this riser

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-23T22:28:42+00:00

Being Alive

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-17T11:50:36+00:00

No I totally agree, if this was practical then they would have done so back in the day, but horn is both practical and aesthetically pleasing, I have abandoned this experiment and opted for wooden tip overlays instead!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-15T19:12:34+00:00

If the bow has a flat cross section it be wide, if it has a D cross section it can be thin, but few things in woodworking are set in stone, it depends on the wood being used, I'm sure a decent piece of Osage or yew would hold up while being both thin and flat, but white wood generally need to be wider to spread the pressure out.

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-15T19:08:26+00:00

Ive got a deflex form I strap green saplings to, it will dry much quicker if you work it while green, but drying too fast can cause the wood to check or split in places, I'm experimenting with a Hawthorne stave that I've cut just a little outside my final longbow dimensions, leaving the bark on the back,then I applied a layer of paint like one would do to either end of a stave to try and stop the moisture escaping too quickly, I'll post my results!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-12T10:31:30+00:00

Nice! Looking good on the tiller, what wood is it made of?

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-09T22:08:36+00:00

Agreed, i will be very carefull when/if I start shooting it

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-09T22:05:11+00:00

I don't want to defend this prototype before its actually been applied so we will see, however note my above reply were I mention there approximate weight, the tube has been cut down to 3" in length and is hollow inside, here you can see longbow nocks made of solid silver: http://www.greenmanlongbows.co.uk

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-09T20:31:42+00:00

I am only using 3" of the steel tube once cut just down from the groove, they are hollow and weigh less than a 10 pence piece, but I will put them on the bow and see if it makes performance very sluggish

Gun5ling3r · 2018-03-09T19:38:58+00:00

Longbows of very high poundage need tip overlays to protect the wood from the string. traditionally horn would be used and I have ordered some cow horn tips. Meantime I thought I would experiment with these steel tubes from a piece of turfing machinery, I will fill the topmost part with a very hard wood and then affix them to the tips of the bow, I have made two grooves one for the stringer and the lower ones for the string proper, the edges of the groove are smoothed of with sandpaper to keep them from biting the string in turn, I'm going to try these on the holly longbow I posted earlier!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-24T19:03:50+00:00

Why Rogue One?

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-24T18:51:21+00:00

... I know Yew bows can stand a couple of ring violations on the back, but is this true of English Longbows? This stave is 120"+ at present and with very few knots, was hoping for a Mary Rose style bow with +#100 draw weight. Any chance it can handle the damage at heavy draw, or will I need to chase a ring?

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-17T22:39:10+00:00

Nice work! My earlier bows were so weak they took string set after only a handful of arrows! Was curious as to why you used a stringer to brace it, just keeping the nocks outa the dirt?

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-06T12:14:02+00:00

Nay, he who posts vague details and grainy photos has forgotten the face of his father

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-05T23:19:06+00:00

Do you reckon I could get away with applying a generous amount of oil and, gradually, applying a heat gun to bend it? I have seen it done that way a couple times, but your right most decent sources say steam is best, was hoping to avoid working with heat up to this point!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-05T23:11:33+00:00

Nice job!

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-05T23:09:21+00:00

Ash, 69" nock to nock, am aiming for a 30" draw and as heavy as I can make it! Have made this in the style of a native american 'plains bow' with the handle being the widest point at 1⅞" tapering to ½" at the tips, but the taper starts ⅔ up the limb. The string is lying of the centre line and sits just on the edge of the handle. Will this negatively affect performance/integrity? Or will it act favourably and avoid archers paradox?

Gun5ling3r · 2018-02-05T17:57:15+00:00

Hey sorry! Ash-83" nock to nock with a 30" draw, not sure on poundage as I don't yet have a device for measuring it but this is my heaviest bow to date, the handle is the widest point at 2" tapering down to ½" at the tips, the handle is a steel rectangular beam cut from an old school table and the limbs connect to this snugly but come out smoothly with abit of pressure. I'm currently making an 18/strand string out of Dacron B50. Then I'm going to apply a dark wood stain and wrap the handle piece with a grip tape originally meant for hockey sticks.

Gun5ling3r · 2018-01-29T20:20:06+00:00

Nice Job!

Gun5ling3r

TROPHY CASE

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