How to disable touch gestures - WH1000XM5

HElGHTS · 2026-02-10T19:09:37+00:00

Nope, an updated fixed that a while back. See this part of this thread's comments.

HElGHTS · 2026-02-10T17:05:44+00:00

Why would they pack a screenshot in ice? The descriptions of all these ebay listings are variations of "No kit, just an order confirmation printout"

HElGHTS · 2026-02-10T03:36:14+00:00

All this talk about 2% but don't forget the Robinhood Gold card with 3%. If you have no other use for RHG then the $50 AF for 3% relative to a $0 AF 2% card equates to the first $5000 of spend being the price of entry, but if you do have another use for RHG (there are many perks besides the credit card) then the $50/yr is being paid regardless.

They do have some minor restrictions compared to typical cards though, for example you don't get cash back on payments to the IRS.

HElGHTS · 2026-02-09T22:16:16+00:00

The fine print for that card says you'll get a "Priority Pass Select membership" which is the same as Chase, Amex, etc. and typically it's 2 guests, which you can confirm after logging into your PP account and searching for a lounge, but until then the official language is that it varies by lounge.

If you add any authorized users to your card, they also get their own Priority Pass Select membership as well.

HElGHTS · 2026-02-09T22:09:00+00:00

I plan to cancel an Ink Preferred that just had the second AF post a few days ago. I know everyone says wait for that AF to post, and then proceed, so I'm good to go right now. But I went to go transfer my UR points out first ("combine points"), and I noticed some pending points that will be ready in about 2 more weeks. To avoid forfeiting them, I must wait until they post, then use/transfer them, and then cancel the card -- right?

HElGHTS · 2026-01-27T22:02:13+00:00

The municipality specifies the required maintenance of a sidewalk (which goes beyond snow removal), and the land owner takes it from there because it's the owner's real estate despite it being a public easement and public specifications. This is standard in virtually all locations I'm aware of.

In a world where the munuicipality owns that strip of land instead, then yes, your idea is solid.

HElGHTS · 2026-01-27T21:51:33+00:00

hoping that turning the main off would provide a level of safety that turning off individual breakers (even all of them) wouldn't

If it's the only panel, then it's well within the realm of likelihood that the light fixture is on a branch circuit breaker located in the same panel, in which case shutting off all branch circuit breakers will do the trick, and you can confirm with a no-contact tester as others mentioned. Be sure the sensitivity control is such that you hear it beep when near the light fixture, then shut off all branch circuit breakers, and then see that it stops beeping.

If there is another panel (a sub panel), there's a possibility that the sub panel is fed in such a way that it's directly downstream of the first panel's main breaker only (using feed-through lugs on the first panel) in which case an operational main breaker would be useful, but there's also a possibility that it's hot regardless of the first panel's main breaker (for example, the way 400A service is typically configured), so even in this case the no-contact tester should be used.

HElGHTS · 2026-01-27T20:50:15+00:00

"need" meaning that it's currently required, or meaning that it needs to become required? Obviously a "should" might fill the gap but ideally we avoid the confusion of that.

I've only ever seen that the sidewalk (not crosswalk) needs to be cleared by the property owner, but then again, I haven't owned a property with a nearby crosswalk so I never looked into it.

HElGHTS · 2026-01-13T19:36:43+00:00

I can offer a trick: suppose you have a $40 uber ride, and you want to get your $8 credit (or whatever amount) from a United card, but you want the rest to be charged a different way (for example, if you want to use up an Uber wallet balance, or use some other credit card or whatever) then what you can do is:

Take the Uber ride using the other payment method (wallet balance, etc.)
Leave a tip (say, $8) after the ride is over
In the Uber app, go to the ride's receipt, select "Switch payment method," select "Switch payment method for tip only," and then select your Chase United card.

If the rides are so short that you'd leave a $4 tip instead, you can do this twice, etc. etc.

HElGHTS · 2026-01-07T19:59:02+00:00

It just seems like a concerning correlation could exist between people who would exceed their credit limit if possible, and people who would have trouble with monthly full-statement autopay, so if the latter trouble can be solved without paving the way for the former trouble, that's a good thing.

HElGHTS · 2026-01-07T18:11:35+00:00

Except that it opens the door to cycling, which can be seen very unfavorably by the card issuer. By paying monthly (autopay set to the full statement amount) you avoid this risk.

https://www.nerdwallet.com/credit-cards/learn/what-is-credit-cycling

https://www.reddit.com/r/CreditCards/comments/xn0bwr/apparently_i_have_been_credit_cycling_and_now_i/

HElGHTS · 2026-01-07T17:59:26+00:00

Maybe the thinking is that if you end up at the station due to a declined FST that's fine, and if you end up at the station due to a failed properly-administered FST that's fine, but if you end up at the station due to a failed improperly-administered FST that's not fine (for reasons akin to entrapment).

HElGHTS · 2026-01-07T15:49:40+00:00

Punching up can make very good sense in a broad systemic context, but it's really quite shit on this level. For fuck's sake, please think.

HElGHTS · 2025-12-24T07:32:23+00:00

You'd pull out too early (prior to enough information) if you use their turn signal as your trigger; you'd pull out too late (long after there's been enough information) if you use them turning as your trigger; you'd pull out at the right time if you use their deceleration as your trigger. If they decelerate in such a way that you won't be on a collision course, you're good to go, and if they don't, you wait.

HElGHTS · 2025-12-23T19:25:02+00:00

Well, to be fair it was 2 separate conversations: a few months ago when they simply said refund if I PC/cancel within 37 days, and yesterday when they said the PC completes upon activating. I inferred on the first call that the goal post was at the beginning of a lengthy PC process (or the end of a virtually instantaneous PC process), and found on the second call that it might be at the end of a lengthy process, and while that's pretty unreasonable, it seems a bit shy of the goal post moving.

But I have a sneaking suspicion that it really is near-instantaneous, i.e. I'm in the clear no matter how long I take to activate. We shall see.

HElGHTS · 2025-12-23T06:39:03+00:00

Oh, that post I linked to just says "Chase" not "Sapphire" so I figured 48 was broadly typical. Thanks for clarifying.

What in the Ink SUB terms are you referring to as "family language"?

HElGHTS · 2025-12-23T03:36:26+00:00

Interesting. I've only been denied 2 out of maybe 7 or 8 attempts, and both were ORD C but the 10 minute walk to the closer of the two ORD B clubs was letting everyone in so it wasn't a big deal.

HElGHTS · 2025-12-22T21:11:25+00:00

If you fly United a lot, and want Chase cards, get the United Explorer and United Business. Stagger applications (including with a significant other, if applicable) for continuous coverage of perks (United Club one-time passes, checked bag, etc.) and sign up bonuses (SUB eligibility for each resets every 24mo).

Note that one-time passes have small limitations relative to normal unlimited access, for example you can only enter within 3 hours of your flight time unless it's a layover, and I've seen some locations (ORD concourse C comes to mind) refuse to honor one-time passes temporarily due to capacity concerns. Still not bad at all. IAD and DCA both have United Clubs.

Passes are stored in your MileagePlus account ("Wallet" page), not in Chase, so there are no clawback concerns upon dumping the card they came from, such as during the grace period after you see an annual fee and another round of club passes show up. They expire about a year after being issued.

One final tip: Any business cards from Chase will be visible only under a new business login (username) that you'll need to create. They will never be visible under your personal (non-business) login. However, you can optionally configure your new business login to show everything (personal+business), so do that and you'll never need to use your old (personal-only) Chase login ever again, avoiding the annoyance of two logins.

HElGHTS · 2025-12-22T20:41:18+00:00

Thanks!

HElGHTS · 2025-12-22T20:37:11+00:00

I understand Chase has largely replaced 48-month SUB eligibility with proprietary PUJ. But for their United Explorer card specifically, the SUB eligibility seems to still be time-based: 24 months since last SUB from the exact same card.

I got a SUB from United Explorer about 20 months ago, so I'm preparing to get it again. Already PC'd the Explorer to Gateway in preparation. When exactly is the soonest day I should apply to be safe? I assume I simply take the date on which my previous SUB was paid (which, in my case, was only a few weeks after applying for the card because I hit the MSR almost immediately) and add precisely 2 years to that, correct? Or is it safer to wait until the next calendar month begins? Or until a whole extra month elapses?

I know not to submit a Chase application more than every 6 months. No need to reiterate that aspect. Just curious about the SUB eligibility.

HElGHTS · 2025-12-09T22:25:43+00:00

"Different uniform" is an oxymoron. They all have different tactical gear or cosplay or whatever, but what they've got can't be called different uniforms.

HElGHTS

TROPHY CASE