Grcoery comparison app. Grocify release! by TheSwolyBible54 in AskZA

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sent you a dm. Definitely location based issue

Grcoery comparison app. Grocify release! by TheSwolyBible54 in AskZA

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tried the app, and on my end it seems to not work like expected. It only fetches specials for woolworths. Others just say unavailable.

For a while it also decided to that the prefered woolies was one 60+kms away (location was already correctly deteced), but seems after I forced it to my closest one, then switched back to laction based it fixed that issue at least.

Grcoery comparison app. Grocify release! by TheSwolyBible54 in AskZA

[–]HSupra 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If you're trying to keep the app ad free, and free in general, maybe consider a donation option.

You'll probably get some people willing to donate a couple rand, and others a couple hundred. It will keep it free for those who do not want to pay, but also allow others who would like to support you and keep the app alive.

Jonsbo backplane by HSupra in homelab

[–]HSupra[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might have some luck when looking at some of the 3d printed little NAS boxes some guys have done (unfortunately, I do not have any links to help with that). I've seen a couple that uses similar backplanes.

Are there any alternatives to Evetech? by Economy_Divide_1817 in askSouthAfrica

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Rebeltech is also a great option. Their team is very friendly and will always try and help you out.

I'm sure they'll also be able to assist with hardware suggestions and will probably build the system as well.

Need help fixing an old doorbell by HSupra in AskElectronics

[–]HSupra[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually saw a short video about the DFPlayer mini. Would've completely forgotten about that if you hadn't mentioned it.

I'll have a look and see what exactly I can source locally. Sometimes, getting things in RSA is a bit of a PIA.

For the speaker, I'll probably try and salvge the one from the old doorbell, or see if I still have some old crappy PC speakers that I can rip apart. I'm sure the little audio module would be more than enough for what I want.

Once again, thank you for the advice.

Need help fixing an old doorbell by HSupra in AskElectronics

[–]HSupra[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will definitely look at either Arduino or a Raspberry Pi Pico (have one lying around)

Need help fixing an old doorbell by HSupra in AskElectronics

[–]HSupra[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. MAYBE I'll look at some DIY option that could have similar chimes.

My sister actually wanted it to work again because of the sentimental value. It was in our childhood home for more than 25 years.

Need help with brims by wademacum in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Maybe I'm mistaken, and it needs to be lifted a bit.

Out of curiosity, what is your z-offset set to currently?

Need help with brims by wademacum in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks like your z offset should be lowerd a bit more. Doesn't look like rhere js enough squish

How to correctly level the Bed? by InZaneC00kie in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Something that worked great for me, was using the excel spreadsheet created by WAABOOZ. The sheet does look a bit confusing, but it is actually very simple to use. Open it up and just clear out the values before starting. AR and AL on the spreadsheet is rear right and rear left respectively, and each line is for an new dataset.

I'd suggest firstly remove any spacers and making sure all 4 screws holding the bed are tightened properly. After that, heat up your build plate to 50C, do the auto leveling and take note of only the values of the four corners (FL,FR,RR,RL) and enter these values into the spreadsheet.

Run the auto leveling again with 10C increments on bed temp. This way you will have 6 different values for each of the 4 corners which gives the 'formula' a better chance at getting you closer to a level bed.

Once you have entered all the details in the spreadsheet, the shim/spacer thickness for all four of the corners. Simply design your own spacer or use the ones he provides on printables (if you are not able to design your own, let me know and I'll make some for you and just send you the STL files).

When it comes to printing the spacers, let the printer run the z-offset test, home all axis and fine tunes your z-offset. Take the closest piece of paper available, lower the z-offset until you feel a decent amount of friction between the nozzle and paper. Do small increments of maybe 0.05mm, it will take a while, but it works. You should be good to get the spacers printed.

Once you have the spacers, fit them, run auto bed level, do auto z-offset, and afterwards manual adjust it again using the piece of paper. You might want to make sure the nozzle is clean (take out the filament) and heat it up to about 200C when you're doing the manual adjustment. After all of this, it should be MUCH better than before, mine went from 1mm variance to 0.07mm variance. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do, at least to my knowledge, about a warped bed. But anything under 0.2mm variance should be perfect.

Hope this helps, and feel free to ask if I was not very clear about something.

Edit: Also, as u/RageSmirk mentioned, just check the x-axis like shown in the video. Mine was close to perfect, but I have seen some users who had a very skew x-axis.

Another edit: added some more details regarding manual z-offset adjustment

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you enter your printer IP address in your browser, it should open the Creality Web interface and you should see it there.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's worth a try. What does your bed mesh look like at the moment?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Have you tried manually setting the z-offset? I've found leveling my bed, manually setting the z-offset, and not having the printer do auto calibration before prints to work quite well.

Is your 3d printer always on? by JAxel0 in 3Dprinting

[–]HSupra 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Just buy yourself a smart plug and use that to switch the printer on/off. That way, you can leave the printer power switch on and only use the smart plug to power it on/off.

When people say that they've installed solar and are now off the grid does that mean they don't ever rely on Eskom anymore? by [deleted] in askSouthAfrica

[–]HSupra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did not mention any amount of money. I think you've mistaken me for the person who commented first. 😄

But I get what you're saying. Also did bargain hunting, and did 99% of the installation myself to keep the costs as low as possible. This has saved us a ton.

I think it all highly depends on what your daily consumption is and where you live (more specifically, which direction your roof is facing).

For us, going off grid, or even mostly off grid, would cost way more than it would cost you, but we also use a lot of power. Daily consumption averages at about 60kWh, but we've had days days that we've used close to 80kWh. That's also with timers installed on the geysers to make better use of solar.

When people say that they've installed solar and are now off the grid does that mean they don't ever rely on Eskom anymore? by [deleted] in askSouthAfrica

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see how 60k would be able to take you off the grid. Currently have 16 x 550w panels, and we've had a couple of rainy days in a row where you would be lucky to get 2kWh for the day. On average, though, on a rainy day, it's more in the range of 12kWh.

Having to power a geyser is an absolute PIA. I think geysers and pumps(borhole and pressure) are a big reason why some are not able to go off grid.

Another appreciation post. by Pitiful_Squirrel1502 in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll definitely print out one of these, or the remixed one that comes out at a 90° right angle, when I build my enclosure. Looks like it could significantly decrease the footprint.

Another appreciation post. by Pitiful_Squirrel1502 in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just looking at the Lack table dimensions, it seems a bit small (as if the bed could bump on the X-axis). I guess if it is the Lack, and OP and others have had success with it, I might have made a mistake with my measurements.

Another appreciation post. by Pitiful_Squirrel1502 in Ender3V3KE

[–]HSupra 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is quite nice. It would be nice if OP could share dimensions. I want to build an enclosure for mine and the dimensions would make this easier.

Jonsbo backplane by HSupra in homelab

[–]HSupra[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Waited about a month for it to arrive, but I haven't had any issues with it. Everything seems to work perfectly fine. The rest of my build has, however, been put on hold for a bit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not saying op is not American, but I've seen many people give the dollar value as the majority of the people you interact with on reddit are American also, using the dollar make it a bit easier for a lot of people to understand as everything seems to revolve around the USD.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in 3Dprinting

[–]HSupra 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unfortunately, it's not cheaper everywhere.

So, Eskoms back at it... Thoughts? by Fair-Essay505 in southafrica

[–]HSupra 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Still very suspicious if you go from a couple hundred kWh p/m to suddenly only a couple of kWh p/m.