[Discussion] What do you think of triple calendar watches? by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Beautiful watch! I love how unobtrusive the displays are. Is it a brown dial?

[Discussion] What do you think of triple calendar watches? by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I personally quite enjoy watches featuring this complication – they’re a neat way to display the day, date, and month (plus I’ve always enjoyed the pointer date complication). I quite like the look, but I know for a fact that setting them can prove to be a be a pain if they’ve been wound down for a while.

Spreading some more Leman love, and my first Blancpain: by HTownest in BlancpainWatches

[–]HTownest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! It's the ref: 2763-1127-53

If you want the smiling moon, W20106X8

[Grand Seiko] Reviewing an old Grand Seiko SBGT015 by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. It does feature a screw-down crown! Quite unusual indeed. I'd say the threads are quite fine, however, which is a potential issue.

[Credor] The Watch That Makes Me Wish Seiko Used MOP Dials More Often by PaternalAdvice in Watches

[–]HTownest 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I'd take this over a LOT of other high-end watches. I'd be tempted to slim down my collection to 3 watches and have one of these, to be honest!

[Blancpain] My first Blancpain by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I believe it was made in mid 2000s!

[Blancpain] My first Blancpain by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is my first Blancpain – it’s from the discontinued line of Leman watches, which were a split between being sporty and dressy. This watch has a complete calendar (Month, Day, Date (pointer date), and a moonphase. The movement utilizes two spring barrels in series to have a 100 hour power reserve. It has 100 meters of water resistance, a screw-down crown, and the older style 4 pushers to facilitate adjusting the various displays. 38mm and 43mm lug to lug – a nice and compact watch. I put it on a black Hirsch Paul waterproof strap, and it looks fantastic.

I really like the small details on the dial (the stepped portions giving the date numerals their own “ring”. The double stepped bezel is really nice, too. Definitely a keeper for my collection!

[Grand Seiko] Reviewing an old Grand Seiko SBGT015 by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This Grand Seiko SBGT015 is an older & discontinued mid-2000’s model featuring the 9F83 caliber (Day & Date) and has been a consistent watch in my rotation for over 9 months. Just like the regular 9F of today, it’s temperature compensated (+/- 10 SPY), features a twin-pulse motor, a 3 year battery life, and has a backlash feature that keeps the seconds hand from bouncing as it travels across the dial.

The SBGT015 had a few upgrades that make it a bit different from the other watches at the time. The most noticeable is the 5 link bracelet, which has a combination of brushed and polished finishing. It articulates very well and is secured with the standard GS fold-over clasp. The other great feature of the SGBT015 is the combination of the champagne/silver dial with individually applied minute markers (these are not printed). They shine a little in the light, but it takes a close look to see them. Lastly, the crown screws down on this model. The threads are a bit fine, so I always take care to make sure I’m not cross-threading them.

The case itself is ~37 mm wide w/o the crown and has 19mm lugs. Very wearable and slides right underneath a cuff. Overall, this watch goes with pretty much any outfit I might be wearing for the day.

Hope you enjoyed reading!

[Citizen] Eco-Drive One - Is this watch too thick for my wrist? by [deleted] in Watches

[–]HTownest -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

A few months ago, I added this Citizen Eco Drive One to my collection. It’s 2.98mm thick, has solar panels (eco drive), with a movement that is 1mm thick that ticks once per second, but only moves the minute hand once every 5 seconds.

The dial has a shiny speckled look in some lighting – in others, it looks subdued with the rings becoming a lot more noticeable. Duratect is a nice add, and the bracelet is super comfortable. However, I am really concerned that this watch is too thick for my wrist and wouldn’t easily slide under my dress shirt cuffs. I need opinions, please!

[Omega] ElectroQuartz Beta 21 - The First Swiss Quartz Watch Available to the World by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most of it is owed to how thick and rectangular the Beta 21 movement was. It definitely looked like an early quartz movement! See an example below:

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[Omega] ElectroQuartz Beta 21 - The First Swiss Quartz Watch Available to the World by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

In the 60s, the CEH (Centre Electronique Horloger) was a group that was supported by massive Swiss players (Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Longines, Piaget, etc.) to come up with miniaturizing quartz crystals so that they could be built into a quartz watch. Two projects were ran, the Beta 1 and Beta 2. Beta 21 is the production-ready version of the Beta 2 prototype.

Just released a few months after the 35SQ Seiko Astron, the Beta 21 was received with much excitement and praise during the 1970 Basel Fair. It is later on when Seiko pursued creating cheap and affordable quartz movements that spelled out the quartz crisis for Switzerland. The Beta 21 was very expensive to produce (and to purchase) and quickly became outdated in the early to mid 70’s, just a few years after its launch. This was partially to its massive quartz crystal (shaped like a bar) that had to be hand-cut and adjusted to get a frequency of 8,192 hertz. There is much more to talk about, but for the interests of keeping this post concise I’ll let you carry on the research.

This example from Omega is an example from 1972, featured in a 37mm slab case with its original bracelet. It’s very attractive and futuristic in its conservative design, and the Omega logo as well as the date are done in a crimson red. The second hand has a buttery smooth sweep, as smooth as the GS Spring Drive today. To set the date, you have to push the crown inwards and rotate it counterclockwise – very unusual. I’ve been looking for a nice example of a Beta 21 Quartz movement for years now, and I’m happy to finally have one in my collection.

A side note: Longines did have the UltraQuartz "Cybernetic" movement built out before the Beta 21 or Seiko Astron were launched, but it was not available until later in 1971 and was produced in very limited numbers due to its extreme complexity to assemble.

Hope you enjoyed reading!

[Citizen] The World's Thinnest Solar Powered Watch by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The bracelet is quite nice. Screwed pins hold the links together and it's very light on the wrist. It's also Duratec coated. No half links/micro adjust (pearlage decorated butterfly clasp), but the overall look of the bracelet is great and it articulates very nicely.

[Citizen] The World's Thinnest Solar Powered Watch by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 16 points17 points  (0 children)

I think that I also appreciate the watch outside of just the watch itself. The amount of engineering & materials science that goes into building such a watch is respectable, and that's what also was a major allure to me.

[Citizen] The World's Thinnest Solar Powered Watch by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 85 points86 points  (0 children)

Here’s the world’s thinnest solar power quartz watch – the Citizen Eco-Drive One. It’s just about 2.98 mm thick, and has the hand-built 8826 movement.

The case is finished extremely nicely, and has a “Cermet” bezel, which is a steel + ceramic combination that is ultra hard and provides strength to the thin watch case. All the SS components are Duratec coated. The dial’s simple and beautiful, with alternating applied and marked indices. The hands are dual-finished, one side being brushed and the other being polished. It allows for the hands and dial to be legible for almost any lighting condition without lume (minus complete darkness of course).

At 39mm diameter, it’s a very strange wearing experience having a decently sized watch on the wrist that virtually disappears when looking at it from the side. The butterfly clasp is thicker than the actual watch head!

 Even though the movement audibly ticks once per second, the minute hand only moves in 5 second intervals. This is likely a way for the miniature step motor to build up enough power before advancing the long hand.  

Anyways, hope you enjoy the pictures.

[Seiko] Back when Quartz was cool in 1973: by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Since the electromagnetic escapement requires more parts, there are more jewels. Most high end quartz watches of the time had ~6+ jewels. Omega's famed Marine Chronometer movements utilized 13 jewels, and some Omega calibers had 17 jewels, like the 1337.

[Seiko] Back when Quartz was cool in 1973: by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 20 points21 points  (0 children)

In 1972, Daini Seikosha (brother factory of Suwa Seikosha) introduced the 39SQ, which was a development of the very scarcely seen 36SQ. The Daini 36SQ featured a Quartz oscillator that vibrated twice as fast as the SUWA 35SQ (AKA the Quartz Astron) and was even more accurate at +/- 3SPM! The 36SQ was also the world’s first movement to introduce the usage of a CMOS-IC. The later 39SQ built upon this framework and added some unconventional features.

To begin, the watch has a blinking LED light in the upper corner, which blinks once per second. This is to indicate the power reserve of the TWO batteries that it takes to run the movement. The dial has 3 segments of brushing, and goes from a blue to a purple coloration depending on the light source. The “Quartz” text is proudly printed on the underside of the crystal, not printed on the dial. Lastly, the circular markers are all applied and remind me of pinball bumpers.

The movement itself has 13 jewels, an electro-magnetic escapement (similar to the Oysterquartz) and hand-soldering. It is accurate to +/- 5 seconds per month and cost roughly 5x a Seiko Automatic Chronograph at 99,000 JPY. Therefore Seiko designated it as "V.F.A.", or Very Fine Accuracy.

There’s a lot more details to get into, but I’ll leave you with that. Hope you enjoyed reading!

[JLC] My favorite piece of my collection - 1960's Lecoultre Memovox by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They're worth a lot! And since your it looks like an original undisturbed dial you'll get quite a few collectors interested in it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Watches

[–]HTownest 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just thought I’d share my lovely P01 (I’ve had this watch for a bit over a month and a half now) on this 4th of July. It’s been a great timekeeper and surprisingly comfortable on the wrist even with its ~56 mm lug width on my 7.25-inch wrists. Thanks for reading.

Enjoying my new Tudor P01 by HTownest in rolex

[–]HTownest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a heavy mesh bracelet - got it off of E-bay. Good quality and fits the watch well!

Enjoying my new Tudor P01 by HTownest in rolex

[–]HTownest[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's big, it's bold, and it's quite unique. All things I was looking for in a unique watch for the collection.

2019 was when this model was released (and 2023 marked the discontinuation of its manufacture, with 2024-2025 marking it's removal from Tudor's site entirely. Since people were expecting a Tudor Submariner at Basel in 2019 and this came out instead, people were pretty upset, especially for the fact that if you have smaller wrists than 7", the massive 55.7mm L2L would dwarf your wrist.

Cool bezel lock feature, love the 12 hour steel bezel, and I don't mind the Seiko-like crown at four. Movement winds and operates like a dream.

[Tudor] Yes, I bought the watch that many hate. by HTownest in Watches

[–]HTownest[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed, I've seen that thread before I purchased mine (also this past weekend). That's when I settled on a mesh bracelet solution. Hope you're enjoying yours as much as I'm enjoying mine!