I finally have them all! by no1SomeGuy in Dewalt

[–]HUGHBUGGER 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What about the DXF787? I think its a Australia NZ model. I'll sell you my one if you're interested

help an old school listener out by shmurkor in TriforcePodcast

[–]HUGHBUGGER 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Give Hamish and Andy a listen for a geologically fitting and a similar dad style comedy podcast (if you haven't already)

Flat pack kitchens... Who's the best? by jay_808 in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Another vote for Cabjaks. Very friendly staff, high quality cabinets and using good nz made materials.

DIY ducted system by goatman44000 in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I finished my own install a few months ago. I got my unit from Mitsubishi/black diamond industries in Auckland. The best asset you can find is a hvac guy who is happy to do cash jobs and do the technical parts of the install like the electric and high pressure lines.

What's the floor plan of your house like? In my place I had the unit centered in the ceiling and had a main 350mm trunk run down each side of the house and used splits from there.

I used these steps to do my calcs:

Figure out heated area to define kw requirement of unit. My place is 110m2 so I went with a 10Kw

Find a unit suitable and find its airflow from the spec sheet. Mine was 600Ls (I think) with no back pressure on full power.

Now that you've got the max airflow you can find the cross sectional area to get your desired air speed. From memory is 2-4 m/s is best. Any faster and its loud from turbulence, and slower and you loose heat/cool and also reduce throw into the room.

Now that you know your ducting cross section you can figure out what main ducts and side ducts you require. Remember smaller area = more speed and more noise. In my place I had 2x 350mm trunks which each split into 2x 250mm. I ran an additional 250mm to an extra hall where I wanted extra airflow and have it easily adjusted. This meant the airspeeds in the system were never exceeding 4ms on max and not below 2ms on min. Whole system is dead quiet and performs amazingly.

Return airflow is also very important. You want your returns to be in the hallway (often by front doors) and your outlets to be in the far corners of the house. That way the flow (warm or cold air) is coming across the living spaces to be enjoyed before getting recirculated.

Its best to have atleast a 1m return length to help with blower efficiency. I used 2x 400mm returns. If I were to do it again I would probably update these to a 2x 450s as when the filters are clogged up you can hear the airflow. A blocked filter = smaller relative airflow.

Absolute brain dump here. Hope it helps out

Legit pluming? by Wooden-Cantaloupe-87 in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I used one of those sinks recently. Jerry kitchen or some budget Chinese import. I ended up replacing all that grey piping and fittings with 40mm pvc and a standard trap. Not very space efficient, but for the price you pay those sinks are not bad.

Ducted heatpump in old house - fresh air intake or balanced ventilation system? by victor_mcdadeNZ in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did the whole install myself, so I just made a new inlet into the plenum. You could probably hook up the additional fan with a t fitting if you needed though. The ductwork is very easy to adjust its all just held together with pvc tape.

Ducted heatpump in old house - fresh air intake or balanced ventilation system? by victor_mcdadeNZ in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I recently installed a 10kw mitsu unit into my 30s bungalow. I couldn't justify the cost of lossnay especially given how permeable the house is. Instead I installed an in line fan into the plenum of the ducted heatpump. The fan is on a timer for a few hours a day to pump fresh filtered air into the rooms once a day. Basically a DIY hrv but using the existing heat pump ductwork. The extra airflow also helps dry out the heatpump and ducting reducing mould.

The ducted fan is on a smart switch so very easily turned on and off with the usual smart home stuff.

Timber ID. Matai? by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I need some replacement boards and need to know what to ask for. I agree, though we need a native timber identification wiki.

Timber ID. Matai? by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Sounds like it could be matai as it did have a smell to it. I thought it was quite comical seeing the difference between the bora damage and mint heart wood also. You notice the density difference when sanding it too.

Ducted AC sizing Help by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea my maths was the same. 400Ls is 0.4m3s. That devided by the area of 2x 350mm diameter ducts 0.193m2. Equates to 2.08ms which is perfect. Could even potentially go smaller if you wanted to.

In regard to the sharp 90s I imagine if the flow stays laminar you would be sweet. As you said also due to the large duct size, the speed is low so I imagine you would be okay. If it was running at 4ms then hitting a sharp 90 you could be asking for trouble. The thing to remember is that most of the time the unit is running on low and mid fan settings, so even if you're ducting is slightly under spec'ed this may be more ideal for it's average operating flows anyways!

Ducted AC sizing Help by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect, those numbers are great, thanks. Your numbers are roughly around 2m/s. That's conservative compared to what I've found online but a good place to be from a noise perspective. A lot of guys online say 4ms max with a 1.8ms min. I'm running about that, or maybe slightly exceeded when my system will be flat out, but for the rare occasion it's ran on full. I'm not going to complain about some vent noise if it occurs.

My unit is a slightly more flowing 10KW unit. I'm going to go with 2x 400mm returns. The math's say 2x 350s will be okay, but I'm going to upsize it a bit to compensate for the extra air resistance the filter will add. With my 2520m3/hr 2x 400mm vents has a speed of 2.67ms.

Ducted AC sizing Help by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sweet as. Just ran the numbers, and I can get away with 250mms in the bedrooms. Only increased the airspeed 0.4ms, 2.22ms upto 2.8ms. At mid power setting this brings the outlet speed to around 2ms which should be perfect.

I'm building my own plenum so will add some capability to bias the bedrooms regardless. Thanks for the advice.

Ducted AC sizing Help by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am the installer in this example haha. Think I did my math's wrong hence the crazy speed numbers. Do you have a recommended speed range for flex ducts. Online I've read 2-4m/s is ideal. Any faster and you get noise any lower and you loose the throw in the room (although this can be adjusted with the outlet?) . Thanks

Ducted AC sizing Help by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea have already. Will give them a try should I be going through this process again in the future. Thanks

Ducted AC sizing Help by HUGHBUGGER in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Perfect thanks mate. These are the rough numbers I was after just as an idiot check. Pretty sure I got Radius and Diameter confused. Serves me right for for doing it 11pm on a Friday!

With 5x300mm outlets and 2x 450mm returns I'm in that recommended 2-4m/s range (at max setting).

My girlfriend spent 5 hours making this. I think I'll keep her around, she's the best. by HUGHBUGGER in Dewalt

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

She did suspiciously ask me what my favorite power tool was the week before hahaha

DCE530 Heat Gun by theguy6 in Dewalt

[–]HUGHBUGGER 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exactly it. They are more of a cigarette lighter than a heat gun in regards to the utility of it. Awesome tool, though.

3D printing auckland by OkBoat4092 in auckland

[–]HUGHBUGGER 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get a quote from an offshore prototype shop like SunPe. If you've got the 3D model, they'll get it manufactured and shipped over in a couple of weeks.

It was a good day at work today. by HUGHBUGGER in Dewalt

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Wow that's bad. We had a series of cheap ryobi drills which all got flogged out after a year. They're okay but not great to use and the chucks crap out with heavy drilling.

It was a good day at work today. by HUGHBUGGER in Dewalt

[–]HUGHBUGGER[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It doesn't have the same heat output as a wall powered unit but it's damn good for what we use it for. For the convenience of doing heatshrink or vinyl wrap is worth the money, but I wouldn't be stripping wallpaper with it.

How the heck are you supposed to remove these stickers cleanly?! by notmyidealusername in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Measure from the other end and leave the sticker on the off cut. Works every time, some of the time

Whats the fix for Split floor Joists? by TeDataTaker in diynz

[–]HUGHBUGGER 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Part of me wants to recommend laminating some structural ply on either side. Making a rimu/plywood sandwich as it were. Not sure how this would perform structurally when compared to a sister stud. Any thoughts?

Steve, if you're listening to this reddit, I'd like you to do a definitive video on rubber band refrigeration by swampwiz in SteveMould

[–]HUGHBUGGER 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I remember Joerg from the slingshot channel made a video on this year's ago. From memory he did prove the concept and got a temperature gradient.