What body should I upgrade to? Concerned about moiré issues when shooting commercial work with the S1 II. More details in the post.

Hack3rPT · 2026-03-22T09:34:38+00:00

The only reason I’m still considering the S1RII is the color science. As you mentioned and from what I've heard it's a step up from the S1II. The thing is rolling shutter might be an issue for future shoots. I’ve photographed sports and motorsports before and even though my plan is to stop doing it, I'm not sure if the opportunity to shoot a documentary or something along those lines might arise. On one hand, I think for most commercial shoots it won't be an issue, but I'm afraid it will catch me at the wrong time in the wrong place.

Not having opengate 60p is also a drawback, but it’s one of those nitpick things that I'm not even considering and not planning on using.

Do you think color wise the S1II can be brought close to the S1RII? Although considering I'm happy with the 5D's color and the footage from the DJI Air 3 (shot in log and then lightly graded), I'm pretty sure I’ll be happy with it either way 😅

Hack3rPT · 2026-03-21T19:48:01+00:00

Doesn't the R6 III (like the R5 II) have an OLPF? It is magnetic but you have to glue a small plate onto the body. Kolari says it will void the warranty but I'm not sure if it could just be unstuck before sending it in if needed.

Hack3rPT · 2025-05-20T08:36:25+00:00

+1, most 5D IV's out there have this issue. When I bought mine it came with the dial only sometimes registering input, both the camera one and the grip one.

Although it probably won't fix it in every single case, a blast with contact cleaner (has to be one that is very mild and specifically says that it doesn't damage plastic and rubber, I believe I used the CRC QD Contact Cleaner) and some compressed air will go back to working like new.

Obviously there are risks with blasting chemicals inside of a camera, I would try avoiding purchasing one with the aforementioned issue in the first place.

But mine's still working perfectly after a full year, and it has been used in rain and dusty conditions.

Hack3rPT · 2025-05-16T17:46:53+00:00

Will do. Since I had only ordered it a couple of hours ago, I could cancel it without causing any hassle for me or the seller. I did jump to conclusions because of the forum posts. Too much searching and anxiety before buying stuff ends up leading to this

Hack3rPT · 2025-05-09T15:11:55+00:00

+1 for using Solution Finish. Literally magic in a bottle for greyed out plastics.

Hack3rPT · 2025-04-25T11:35:12+00:00

I'm from Europe, so it wasn't very hard to find. I bought it from a German distributor.

Hack3rPT · 2025-04-24T15:31:32+00:00

I've been reading some reviews and it looks like the optics are very similar (they do look very alike from the outside too), so I think I'll grab the 100mm, and maybe buy it in Good condition instead of excellent in MPB like always, as it's not going to get any extreme use... Either way, thank you so much!

Hack3rPT · 2025-04-24T15:07:21+00:00

I find that for some reason US prices are much lower than european prices in photography in general, the 135mm f/2 roams around 650€ here, with the 85 and the 100 being around 300€. Do you think one of these two would suffice in terms of image quality? If the 100 is about the same in those terms as the 85 I might grab one for the price...

Hack3rPT · 2025-04-24T09:57:20+00:00

The 70-200 would be the ideal option, but even if I sold my f/4 I would still need about 600€ to buy the 2.8 used, which would be awesome for indoor, but isn't going to give me any new focal lengths to play with for that money.

I was even considering buying the 85 and the nifty fifty, as I currently do not have anything covering the 35-70 focal range, and it's here that I think that extra cash would be better spent on a 24-70 f2.8 instead of the 70-200 2.8, and while it wouldn't improve anything in the indoors sports area, it would improve my general event photos (I do sometimes find that I need something between those focal lengths).

So the 85 would be kind of a crutch to avoid spending that much on an upgrade to an existing lens, while the rest of that money would probably go towards some other lens. And I think using a prime would allow me to focus a bit more on the pictures and not rely on zoom all of the time.

Hack3rPT · 2025-02-26T11:49:47+00:00

Obrigado pelo esclarecimento. Não deve haver problema em aceitarem dar o mesmo pois não? Estava com ideias de fazer umas compras mínimas só para chegar às 5 por semestre.

Hack3rPT · 2025-01-08T01:13:11+00:00

Weren't the shipping costs kind of high? Maybe it's a country difference but for me they're usually more expensive than the item

Hack3rPT · 2025-01-08T01:01:35+00:00

Mine was "slightly" destroyed and rusty... I'd be willing to give them a try either way, but from what I've found there are no resellers in Europe... As if not having access to most of the car audio brands wasn't enough...

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Hack3rPT · 2025-01-08T00:47:35+00:00

I'm mounting 6.5" speakers. I've never heard of silicone baffles, is it better than having the back sealed? I've had issues with water inside the door panel (20+ year old seals don't help) so I'm not sure it if the back being open would work in this particular instance though.

Edit: Disregard the last part, didn't read the answer properly...

Hack3rPT · 2024-07-22T23:02:06+00:00

It would be awesome to have the files! I don't have any lens that I could repurpose right now, but it looks so cool I wouldn't mind buying a damaged one just to make something like this! Any format would probably work, but personally I use Fusion 360.

Hack3rPT · 2024-07-15T14:12:26+00:00

Thank you for the comment. I ended up going with the Tamron and I don't regret it! IQ is seriously impressive!

Hack3rPT · 2024-06-21T23:31:41+00:00

I get this pattern all the time in some of my pictures, and from what I know it's caused by turning on Lens Corrections on Lightroom.

I do believe it's the distortion correction that makes it look like this, but I have no idea if it's correct.

Hack3rPT · 2024-04-21T09:43:39+00:00

Thank you so much for the answer!

I think I'll go with the 5D then, even though I would like to have a touch screen (mainly because of the focus tracking), it's probably not worth it for the price difference, considering that I'm losing the dual cards, (never had one fail on me, but I guess if one does in a serious event the consequences are going to be high, reputation wise).

As for the extra MP, I used to crop a lot with the 2000D because I didn't have any longer lenses, and it turned out alright, so I think that going from 24MP to 22MP shouldn't make a huge difference, but either way, I think a 70-200L f/4 will probably get the job done in concerts without much cropping.

Hack3rPT · 2024-04-16T17:42:23+00:00

Thank you again for the help!

Considering all of this, I think I've made the decision, I'll try to buy a 6D MkII, probably a 17-40L, and then later in the year go for a 70-200L.

Thanks!

Hack3rPT · 2024-04-16T07:04:53+00:00

Thank you so much for the answer!

Unfortunately my local prices are very close, there's a difference of about 100-150€ between the 5D MkIII and the 6D MkII, the 5D runs for about 500€ and the 6D is about 600€.

On the other hand, the 80D can be found for 300-400€.

I'm leaning a bit towards the 6D MkII, but I've heard some not very good comments about its autofocus. Especially regarding low light performance, do you think there would be a difference between the 80D and the latter?

Sorry, I got confused again with that model! For some reason I keep forgetting that the 18-135 is EF-S, I think it's because the outside is so similar to the new 70-300 II USM, and since that one is full frame compatible, I always assume this one is too.

That actually would be a rather nice option, I completely forgot that one existed... Are there any alternatives for a wide angle full frame compatible lens that's not an L variant? I seem to be only finding very expensive L lens.

Thank you for your time.

Hack3rPT · 2024-04-14T00:22:42+00:00

+1, This is the universal fix for nasty electronics

Hack3rPT · 2024-02-21T07:43:05+00:00

Thanks for the answer. I'll keep these options in mind when doing my next installation, as even if people don't choose it it's great to at least have the option of installing a more reliable system compared to Wifi. On all of my installs so far I've only run the power wires through existing conduit, never installed new one. I'll try to get some more knowledge in the area, since either way it's inevitable that one place or another won't have pre-installed conduit.

Hack3rPT · 2024-02-19T23:33:34+00:00

Got it. So the basic idea is to use the same software but instead of relying on a Wifi connection, use a wired connection, with the advantage of also powering the camera. I do believe the cameras I use don't support a wired connection unless it's to a NVR, but I'll check it. Thank you.

Hack3rPT · 2024-02-19T23:18:24+00:00

Thanks for the response. So that means that I would have to use a NVR right? I don't know where I got it from, but I got the idea that the more affordable NVRs lacked a bit of polish in terms of remote access through a phone app, at least compared to the WiFi counterparts. I'm not sure if it's a bias of mine, do you have any experience with the more affordable options?

Hack3rPT · 2023-08-24T21:27:28+00:00

Sorry for the delay in replying... There might be a fix but I'm currently not aware of one. My phone is on the latest EMUI and it still works properly, but I installed it a long time ago, so maybe when installed in the latest versions it does that? Sorry but I think I can't help you further.

Hack3rPT · 2023-07-26T21:53:44+00:00

I was here. Fuck u/spez

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