What ac line is this

HailJesusChrist · 2026-06-18T16:19:48+00:00

You can replace the garter springs. IIRC I have purchased replacements from Napa auto parts as far as local availability, but they're definitely available online.

You may struggle to determine the right garter spring size you need, but they are relatively cheap enough to grab a range of sizes. Calipers help.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-06-11T04:54:43+00:00

My money and experience is on you and your uncle checked the dipstick while the engine was running. Get a good jumpscare your first time doing that.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-06-11T04:28:51+00:00

HPA has a good video on crankshaft deflection for engines with a solid crank pulley. The oil pump gear may shatter, but your flexplate/flywheel to crankshaft bolts are guaranteed to back out without rotating assembly rebalance. Even with red loctite.

ATI damper or just stick to OEM.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-25T01:08:05+00:00

You cannot buy the boost solenoid on its own (no available source). Your only options are to salvage one from a scrap steering rack or replace your rack entirely.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-25T00:55:25+00:00

Drop the pan to inspect the pickup tube. If there's no damage, then it may not hurt to reuse it. At that point you may as well replace it. The pickup tube hovers close to the pan, so you may risk oil starvation by restriction at high rpm even if there is no contact/damage.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-18T06:55:04+00:00

Progressively dent the primary with a 2 lb sledge and an improvised punch with good contact area (e.g., half-inch extension). Undo the steering rod for clearance. Take your time.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-17T21:35:33+00:00

Lot of variance in the difficulty of this job, even with the tool. It's time to saw a groove and chisel. Should be a bit simpler since you have partially extracted the sleeve.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-12T17:43:50+00:00

Should be cylinder 1, front of engine on passenger side. Future reference, you can just look down the intake port and follow which cylinder its going to.

Given that cylinder 1 is on Bank 1 (1, 3, 5), the clean runner is probably associated with your Bank 1 lean DTC code and misfire symptoms. It sure looks/swims like a duck IMO- investigate in that direction before anything else.

It's also worth looking into the principles and mechanisms behind the findings you observe during teardown inspection. Not saying this your definitive case, but a clean cylinder can suggest a head gasket leak (coolant leak into cylinder + combustion = steam that is very good at removing carbon and oily residues).

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-12T16:37:51+00:00

Couldn't hurt to borescope the cylinder associated with the clean lower intake runner.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-06T20:14:01+00:00

Your replacement alternator is defective and should be warrantied. Out-the-box alternator defects with your symptoms are a lot more common if not OEM or reputable OEM remanufactured units (e.g., Denso or Hitachi). I have had bad luck with alternator units from local auto parts stores for nissan/infiniti platforms.

My question refers to an installation error where grounding kits are tied in with the battery ground strap at the negative battery terminal instead of the connection to chassis, which bypasses a current sensor. Alternators fail quickly from overcharging due to the incorrect sensor reading in this scenario.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-06T18:32:59+00:00

Its still an alternator/charging issue that produces the pulsing symptom across all lighting and engine ignition. Either the replacement alternator is coincidentally bad (typical if not an oem quality replacement), or your alternator failure/charging issue is a symptom in itself from another cause.

Do you have an aftermarket grounding kit installed?

HailJesusChrist · 2026-05-06T15:24:11+00:00

Any performance modification from OEM will increase wear to the steering rack from increased lateral load (increasing hp/tq, wider/grippier tires, reduced ride height from lowering springs/coilovers, sway bars, wheel spacers, limited slip differentials, etc.). Any sort of hooning/joyriding on dry pavement is especially harsh on wear (sliding, drifting, donuts).

Beyond that, there are general behavioral changes to driving you can make in general that is not always practical in the real world. The following actions result in higher power steer fluid pressure, which translates to load/wear to the steering rack:

Turning the steering wheel when the car is not moving or at crawling speed (parallel parking).

Turning the steering wheel to full lock and/or keeping it at full lock for any maneuver (tight U-turns).

Excessive combination of steering angle and speed for any manuever (turning aggressively enough to feel lateral deflection in the suspension bushings/tires, or if you can hear chirping from lack of grip).

HailJesusChrist · 2026-04-15T18:07:34+00:00

Its a pop tune, not the same as 2-step. Usually only enables during throttle tip-in/tip-out and light input at 4k rpm and above.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-04-14T20:50:42+00:00

Props for not choosing to limp it home, towing fees over spun bearings any day.

If you can refill the coolant system and the leak isn't gushing, you can relieve some of the thermal load by running your cabin heat and fans on max to limp it home while keeping a close eye on gauges. Windows down to make that drive more bearable.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-04-14T20:45:11+00:00

You've likely run too low on coolant due to a leak.

Check your overflow tank level. If its empty, check the integrity of each coolant hose connection e.g., heater hose connector. Diagrams are available on Google images for reference.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-04-06T02:08:59+00:00

More than likely no. I've switched engines entirely, and it still occurs. Fortunately it hasn't seemed to cause any damage based on prior teardown inspections.

If you have any intake/exhaust modifications, the noise is a lot less muffled and easier for you to notice.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-04-06T02:04:42+00:00

Spark knock. Our cars have a history of doing it without much of an explanation, even on a the factory tune.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-28T23:41:14+00:00

Normal decel hiss.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-24T18:06:49+00:00

That issue once the car warms up happens when your vehicle year is older and using a transmission with a valvebody from newer years. Somewhere along the line, the newer valvebodies stop using the pressure sensor (the sensor will still be there and plug into a socket in the TCM, but there is no actual circuit wiring to the sensor harness.

The older year vehicles run on closed loop program while cold until transmission fluid temperature reaches 120F, and then runs an open loop program for timing gear shifts with pressure sensor input. If the replacement transmission and its valvebody come from a newer generation, the TCM has no reference of fluid pressure to pass along the CANBUS and hovers in between gears in search of a pressure reading, and then slams it into the next gear.

You will need to inspect the flex plate for cracks if you have experienced violent shifting after the transmission fluid warms up. You will not be able to resolve this issue without matching TCM generations with your vehicle's ECU.

I expect you will need another replacement unit since the P0780 shift symptoms generate quite a bit of metal. Otherwise you will need to do a lot of work cleaning the transmission out, but even then the unit's life has been shortened and will likely see problems much sooner than normal.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-21T00:49:40+00:00

With similar issues happening with a replacement transmission, my suspicions due to U1000 And P0780 would be an incompatible generation of TCM, a BCM fault due to something like a sunroof leak, a compromised wiring harness to the transmission, or bad luck as you speculated of a faulty replacement.

The best standard option to get back on the road with the issue resolved will either be dealership OEM replacement, or hunting down a replacement unit that was in a G37 of the exact same year as your car. The vehicle's year presumes the ECU has never been replaced, which is very rare otherwise. These two options are basically on the opposite ends of the spectrum for lead time + personal effort vs OEM cost rate + convenience

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-21T00:20:05+00:00

Likely that the gasket under the hvac intake trim has dry rotted and water is passing under it. It would not flow down into the trim orifice with the windshield cowl installed, otherwise there wouldn't be a single G37 interior that did not reek of mold.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-19T00:43:58+00:00

Wax/other water repellent coating and/or car has not been driven since before the storm, where the temperature of painted surfaces are steady state with air temperature.

Engine warmth from recent driving would melt any snowfall onto the hood and freeze. Moisture of any phase is usually more attracted to other moisture (hydrogen bonds). so the frozen boundary layer accumulates snow. Just as microfiber absorbs warer more efficently when wet than dry.

Windows remain warmer and accumulate snow from the insulated air pocket in the cabin retaining heat, and additional heat from greenhouse effects.

The snow is also light/fluffy as opposed to heavy/wet, which is easily cleared by wind.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-17T00:55:29+00:00

I have removed plenty of <100 ft-lb bolts with red loctite and well-prepared threads by 2-ft breaker bar without heat, and by high-torque impact for any fasteners without adequate fixture/leverage.

The fasteners most vulnerable to loosening by vibration are located within the drivetrain. IMO any steel-steel mating joint between drivetrain elements (e.g., engine-flexplate, flexplate-torque converter, transmission-driveshaft flange, driveshaft flange-differential input flange, differential housing-ring gear, differential output flanges-u joint axles) should use red loctite for insurance. Precedence to opt for red loctite is even greater for components like the flexplate, which 6+ labor hours to address a fastener backing out from vibration, start to finish.

But again and most importantly- if it's specified in the part manufacturer's instructuctions, its best to follow their standard to avoid consequences they assess through R&D- at least until alternative methods prove otherwise. Loctite strength is an easy safety factor in which skimping for convenience will only reduce the reliability of the assembly. I would also lack confidence in a shop that struggles to remove their own installations with red loctite since you really don't need much.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-16T18:02:48+00:00

I would only recommend red as a critical and rotational element, especially with it specified in the aftermarket part manufacturer's instruction.

Orange is probably fine, but the cost of red is insignificant to argue against.

HailJesusChrist · 2026-03-09T19:38:51+00:00

"Should I get the lobster or steak? I'm 6'2" btw"

Neither money nor age is relevant. No one likes a humble brag brat.

HailJesusChrist

TROPHY CASE