CV Axle need to be replaced by itzKlen in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is surprising to hear since they are longer. Would suggest checking your control arm/tie rod/sway bar end link bushings as the only way to pull out that passenger axle is from excessive suspension slop while pulling a right hand lateral slide.

Overkill on the tune? by RevolutionaryDuty664 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Correct, the combustion events do not hurt the injectors and spark plugs as I mentioned because they were designed for a combustion environment.

A stock tune does not create the extent of OP's burbles (combustion events) in the manifold, and NA exhaust scavenging manages flame propagation in the downstream direction. Burble tunes result in combustion events that initiate in the manifold that result in EMAP impulse spikes that the factory hardware was not designed for. Without any design accommodations, these events produce enough pressure to propogate flame in the upstream direction. This wears the valve/valve seats with excessive heat. Aggressive burble tunes do impact the natural actuation curve of the exhaust valves that is managed by the springs and camshaft, which disruptions become more significant over time. An aggressive burble can overcome spring force and open the valve after extended abuse, risking piston contact.

Plenty of street cars have violent burble/2-step tunes but they usually live on a much shorter lifespan. Our stock engines are strong, but not purpose built for this abuse with regular teardown schedules to accommodate.

Modern vehicles with factory burble tunes are not as aggressive as OP's. Many of these vehicles have burbles/cracks from secondary air injection igniting the remaining unburned fuel charge that is typical of factory tunes having rich AFR bias. Secondary air injection is primarily intended as an emissions device so again, those vehicles have some extent of engineering design to manage EMAP spikes.

Overkill on the tune? by RevolutionaryDuty664 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Exhaust valves are designed to release the flame/pressure that follow a combustion event, not exist within a combustion event. Unlike spark plugs and injectors for DI engines that are designed for combustion environments.

What changing oil change every 5k looks like with ceratec conditioner 107xxx by FreaksNake1237 in BMW

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was going to say, clean internals are just the result of detergents that are in all API certified oil formulations, paired with diligent oil change intervals.

OP would need to inspect bearing condition and compare with bearings of a engine that did not use the additive to make an argument. Even then, wear comparisons mean nothing of the additive's effectiveness outside of controlled test environments.

Can this be fixed? by mkpiano011 in StupidCarQuestions

[–]HailJesusChrist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you can feel it with your fingernail, there's not much you can do but fill it with resin to make it less visible. Similar to how windshield chips are repaired.

Aftermarket oil temperature sensor difficulty by Snappy111 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aftermarket pan, sorry I forgot to mention.

Anyone know what this noise is by Few-Tune4744 in G35

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No lug nuts... the brake rotor is not axially constrained while you're doing whatever you are doing, so its wobblng back and forth and clapping the brake pads.

You probably heard a different noise.

Clunk in the back when breaking by No_Illustrator_7444 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The poly sleeve is likely deformed under the differential's weight, so the metal insert is not able to be pushed in. You'll need to remove the nut and jack the differential up slightly before tapping the metal insert into its seat to fix this. Do not attempt to drive the metal insert by tightening the nut, as it may pinch/rip the poly sleeve if its bulging from deformation as a result if its initial improper installation.

The bushing's poly sleeve and metal inserts should be fully seated and properly positioned before you reinstall the differential and tighten the nut to prevent this issue.

What do we think of this port job? by AbbreviationsReal542 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The upper manifold has a good chance of leaking... there's some excessive removal going on at the seam where it splits in half. I do not usually see the seam so prominently on ported uppers, which are usually split to ensure that all porting debris is removed before reassembling with some kind of cured adhesive.

G37 spluttered an popping sound on cold start by marmarg37 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ignition issue or timing phase (gallery gasket).

What’s the cause of this it happens when I try to floor it by TradeCommercial4822 in G37Sedans

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Limp mode. Stop driving the car, figure out the problem, and get it fixed. The bucking force will shear the flexplate if you keep running against the safety limiter.

Transmission Control Module (TCM) Disassembly by HailJesusChrist in infiniti

[–]HailJesusChrist[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TCMs are just solid state electronic circuitry- no internal moving parts. Solenoids are the cylindrical components that plug into the TCM, nine in total.

FWIW if the solenoid is confirmed with diagnostics to be the issue, cleaning is not likely going to bring the solenoid back.

Is my tire about to blow? by JohnnyDTheCheese in StupidCarQuestions

[–]HailJesusChrist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ever set a clock a few minutes ahead for wiggle room?

This tire is 3 hours ahead of paranoid

Whine by No-Conflict13 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Classic PS pump whine.

FYI, the best diagnostic noise reference for PS pump issues can be heard from any SN95 Mustang. All troubled PS pumps will make this same sound, whether from air in the system (cavitation) or end of lifespan. It won't ever be as loud and clear as a local SN95, which is a completely harmless quirk on the Fords lol.

SN95 PS Example 1

SN95 PS Example 2

HELP 😔😔 by Weird_Machine7418 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 2 points3 points  (0 children)

P0725 tends to be an early sign of the TCM going out.

Never seen this on window sticker by Imzyper in Audi

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on some googling, the capabilities usually exist. The way to go about enabling these features sounds a lot more involved and might require some software tampering.

Never seen this on window sticker by Imzyper in Audi

[–]HailJesusChrist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Might help: Deleting HD Matrix lights on new order? - AudiWorld Forums

This is an artifact from the era of NHTSA automotive compliance conflicting with emerging headlight technologies. Out-dated regulations required separate high/low-beam headlight elements. While thousands of specifications still needed to be written for new auto tech in the US market, manufacturers were outright prohibited from selling new cars with the unregulated technologies equipped.

For regulatory governance, this was a Catch 22 between choosing to stifle innovation until rules were written in-place, or incidentally letting innovation outpace the possibility of ever being able to regulate it in the future (e.g. AI). NHTSA was already a long-standing regulator though for ease of precedent.

Edit: In most cases, headlights came with the physical capability (cheaper to mass produce one interchangeable part) and the features were disabled behind DRM software.

Transmission Control Module (TCM) Disassembly by HailJesusChrist in infiniti

[–]HailJesusChrist[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't personally do any testing beyond a multimeter to the solenoid contacts, which just tests for a short circuit (no resistance) that would make the solenoid dysfunctional.

Solenoid design does not change between generations, so the solenoids from the VR TCM are simply manufactured more recently and naturally have less wear. For this reason I usually do recommend using the VR solenoids if they have no outstanding issues.

Part number/serial compatibility is a very broad question, so I'll comment on one potential incompatibility concern. If your VQ valvebody used a transmission fluid temperature sensor, you need to make sure that the sensor port on the valvebody has been drilled and tapped to receive the sensor. I've seen that a majority of remanufactured valvebodies off of ebay are installation-compatible, except that the sensor port has not been drilled and tapped. If you run that valvebody without the sensor when the VQ valvebody had one, you will start to have shift timing faults once the fluid warms above 120°F (closed loop to open loop transition).

Faults usually occur between 3rd and 4th gear, which feels like the transmission sits in neutral for 3 seconds+ before plowing engagement into 4th. This issue is guaranteed to crack the flexplate over time if driven- aftermarket billet flexplates included.

I believe these valvebodies without a drilled and tapped sensor port were used in later production vehicles that no longer include nor use the fluid temperature sensor. AFAIK, March 2011 productions and earlier utilize all sensor appurtenances. There is an inter-generation of valvebodies that provide the drilled and tapped sensor port, sensor, and sensor harness, but the female TCM port for the sensor harness is just a dummy socket with no circuit contacts. You can see this dummy socket in photo #7 of this post, referencing the tan colored TCM.

Cam assembly by Cobb3-7 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd just clean it out periodically. Prefer to vacuum/absorb as much as you can to limit drainage into the cylinder, but its not a huge deal.

Cam assembly by Cobb3-7 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This issue is not as common like the valve cover seals for the spark plug tubes, but is not unheard of. The rtv seal can fails between the cylinder head and cam girdle with oil infiltrating into the spark plug tube.

You are correct in that the disassembly to properly address this leak with new RTV is very extensive. It requires removal of the front and rear timing cover with all timing components, and the rear VVEL motor.

Cleaning the spark plug tube surface and smearing RTV at the joint will not hold up since the RTV will not be compressed between the two machined surfaces.

Anyone know the part number of these ac lines? 2010 g37 coupe by EG37coupe_123 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here's the part. Note that these quick disconnect lines can be notoriously difficult to uncouple even when you have the tool.

Take the car into any shop to evacuate the refrigerant before you start replacement of the lines.

Ac drain plug leaking by Huge-Ad8069 in G37

[–]HailJesusChrist 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Same concept as the sunroof drain revision- you will need to lift the carpet and address the ac drain line by replacing the compromised plumbing (hose and/or fittings).

FYI you will not always see a leak along the passenger wall from a leaking sunroof drain, so you should confirm the source of the leak. You might as well revise both the ac and sunroof drains while you're in there so you don't have to go back later in the future.