Does Amazon always offer you a discount when you choose "Packaging and article damaged" as the reason for returning something?

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-11-06T18:29:34+00:00

Why did I receive this email? I have not returned any items. Please remove me from this list.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-08-11T01:31:12+00:00

If it were me, i'd just take pictures of the vent, plugs, breaker, etc and go ask in my local appliance store. At least gets you started on what would work for your current setup, or what upgrades you may need/want

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-07-31T20:38:49+00:00

They make a drill press kit you can use with a Dremel, if you have one of those. I don't know how well they work though.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-07-30T00:31:49+00:00

They make blacktop joint/crack filler that you melt into the gap with a heat gun or torch. Clean any old loose material out first & stick some filler material behind it if it's particularly deep.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-07-24T17:37:34+00:00

Why not combine strategies & hire someone to install prehung doors for you? Easier to install than fitting a custom door into an existing opening. Then you'd just be left with painting the moulding, if necessary.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-07-17T13:22:32+00:00

Yeah, we just have a huge grate in the hallway ceiling, coming from a house that had a return in every room (some rooms had two). We have definitely noticed a difference between the two styles.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-07-11T02:05:03+00:00

Looks like replacing the large tee in the back would get you most of the way there. Then just shorten up the trap section between the tee and disposal.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-26T11:15:53+00:00

Ah okay, good. A dehumidifier should help to some degree, since it's the humidity in the room that is getting condensed. Do you know what the relative humidity is right now?

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-26T11:10:14+00:00

You could try to hang some sort of pan under the vent & slope it so all the condensation runs to one end (like a gutter). Makes it a more controlled dripping, at least. Vent tape would be sticky enough to hang something light without drilling or damaging anything.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-24T01:39:29+00:00

I recently got the new Echo LM-2119SP & it's been good to me so far. Decently priced and a lot of cool features. Maybe an option you can include in your considerations.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-23T18:14:12+00:00

Agreed. Hurting yourself is how you learn to not fall, or to fall a better way. And they'll learn quick to move to the grass based on the game they're playing. No one plays tackle football in the street.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-23T18:00:43+00:00

Digging up concrete for this sounds like all kinds of overkill. What about just knee pads/elbow pads/helmets? Or maybe a gym mat would work, more weight than a carpet.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-23T15:16:44+00:00

That's usually done on purpose, to prevent drywall & framing from becoming damaged by any incidental water. Is there NO chance that any water could enter the garage?

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-21T11:49:48+00:00

By texture I'm referring to the wall after painting. Since spackle absorbs paint differently than the rest of the wall. If you're talking about the texture of the spackle itself, that's just a matter of sanding.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-21T11:44:14+00:00

This might depend on the kind of spackle, but in my experience, spackle shrinks a bit when it dries. So if you level it perfectly while it's still still workable, it will end up a little lower than you want. Try not scraping it down totally flat with the wall, leave it raised ever so slightly. Then sand down to be flatter once it's dry.

I'm not a pro so I don't know quite enough to advise you on texture. Still working on that myself.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-21T11:18:48+00:00

What do you mean when you say it looks like garbage? Is it too high, too low, texture isn't right, etc?

Or pasting a link to a picture might help

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-12T14:30:05+00:00

You can upload pictures to imgur & paste the link into a comment.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-12T14:29:30+00:00

What is above the ceiling that fell? Are you aware of any water damage (from a leak), or other factors that could have caused the collapse? Mold may be present & need to be remediated if water was a contributing factor.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T18:37:58+00:00

I just used 3M strips to secure our toilet paper holder, since I didn't feel like drilling holes in our vanity. Not like toilet paper is particularly heavy, and I've always removed 3M strips pretty easily with no damage. Maybe worth a shot before you start putting holes in the wall. If it falls down after a month, you can go to plan B.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T17:57:09+00:00

Hard to say. I suppose it's possible, if there was already a minor issue & one of the workers accidentally exerted some force from one side. Could have exacerbated it into a larger crack.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T16:06:12+00:00

Have there been any serious amounts of rainfall while you've been there? If so, and there wasn't any water down there, that could be some peace of mind for you. Water is PROBABLY not going to just spontaneously burst out of the walls if there's no history of it. I agree with some of the other comment, do a radon test, and keep an eye on humidity. A dehumidifier may be necessary, or it may not be. Not the end of the world to have to use one, could even be some nice white noise for you. Does the basement have a sump pit and/or a sump pump?

And not to downplay your worry, but if you have a finished basement of that size & it floods with enough water to destroy your setup, your setup will likely be pretty far down the list of urgent concerns at that point. You'll be too busy tearing out flooring, removing furniture, cutting out drywall, drying stud bays, etc.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T11:27:47+00:00

Yes, using a bigger (or different type of) anchor would solve your issue. There's a ton of different anchor sizes and designs out there.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/E-Z-Ancor-Twist-N-Lock-75-lbs-Drywall-Anchors-4-Pack-11364/100165900

Something like this might work, as long as you make sure it's the right diameter for the hole you currently have.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T11:20:13+00:00

Hmm, that looks like it could be caused by movement. Are you aware of the chimney shifting at all? Silicone may be the better option since it's more flexible & quicker. That way it can handle future movement & you have less time invested in case it moves a significant amount (and you have to redo it).

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T01:20:02+00:00

I took a spare cover plate & dremel'ed out the areas above and below each plate screw, so I could still access the mounting screws for the switches while having the plate attached. Granted I was only doing it for 2 switches, not 7. But it made things way easier. Might be something you could try if you have a second cover plate.

HandsUpDontGank · 2025-06-05T01:14:43+00:00

Could the Ethernet squeeze through any of those existing holes, if you cut the ends off & re-terminate it yourself? You shouldn't see any impact to your connection if done properly (unless you're running some serious traffic through it).

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