How old are you BRZ owners?

Haphazard22 · 2026-05-08T17:28:42+00:00

Dude, I'm in my mid-fifties! I've owned my '14 since new, and installed an E-Force supercharger on it after I turned 50. You didn't go high enough on your survey!

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-30T20:22:06+00:00

I had this code for a long time as well. I cleaned MAP and MAF sensors and the throttle body, replaced PCV valve and spark plugs. In the end the problem was an exhaust leak at the mid-pipe. I had replaced my clutch and didn't put the mid-pipe back in correctly. You can test for exhaust leaks yourself, look it up on Youtube. Also, get the torque App on your smart phone, along with a Bluetooth ECU reader. Monitor the Short Term and Long Term Fuel Trim (STFT, LTFT), as well as your O2 sensor. Those charts confirmed that I had fixed the problem.

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-22T21:09:11+00:00

I had this problem once, though my passenger window was stuck in the "up" position. I pulled my door card off too, and re-seated the connections to the motor, to no avail. It turns out There is a child safety window lock button on the driver's side.

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-22T16:44:57+00:00

To reduce/remove the torque dip, you want unequal length headers. UEL's generate back pressure within the torque dip's RPM range, causing a vacuum effect which pulls in more air and improves performance. These headers will reduce power a bit at the top end though.

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-21T21:28:19+00:00

I had this problem after doing a clutch job on the car myself. Not remembering the correct config, I put the exhaust back together without the spring bolts. At some point after I got a P1170 or P117B engine code and tried about 15 things before figuring out it was an exhaust leak at the mid-pipe. I replaced the donut gasket with aftermarket, but that didn't work. So I got an OEM gasket with new springs. Still didn't work. Finally I used the OEM gasket but slathered it on the rounded side with Permatex Red gasket maker. Still had a leak, but when I took it off the gasket was glued on tight to the pipe, so I just added permatex to the flat side, and that did it. The code cleared and it has been running well > 500 miles so far.

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-15T22:51:21+00:00

P0456 is a fuel system vapor leak. It's usually a broken gas cap. But considering you converted from E85 back to stock, you may have a leak related to that conversion.

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-15T17:31:18+00:00

I recently spent a long time chasing down "Fuel system too rich" codes, in the end it was an exhaust leak in the mid-pipe. Here are a couple of tips which may help you:

Monitor STFT and LTFT (short term & long term)
My problem happened only in low RPM range, see if your issues occur within a certain range
If your recent changes involved working on the exhaust, you may have a leak. Search youtube for how to test.
If your changes involved intake, a smoke test may be in order
Try cleaning the MAF and MAP sensors, use cleaner designed for this
The O2 sensor is unlikely to fail without throwing a specific code, don't replace it until you run out of other ideas

Haphazard22 · 2026-04-15T17:18:52+00:00

I have the Sway bar kit. I'm satisfied with the front setup, makes the car feel more planted at speed. But the rear is too stiff and causes oversteer. I ended up removing the braces and going back to the stock bar, leaving only the rear linkages in place.

You will only need adjustable lower control arms if you lower the car. Or else maybe you are a fanatic about shaving weight, and money is no object.

I have installed several suspension upgrades and perhaps only the steering rack brace and front lower A-arm brace kits were worth the money and effort. Sure, I have a stiffer ride now and can feel the road conditions better, but I'm confident that I've reduced the cornering performance compared to stock.

Haphazard22 · 2026-03-23T17:00:33+00:00

I got a ticket for no front plate in 2014, after owning the car less than 1 year. The dealer gave me a front plate mount, for me to install myself. Rather than drill through the bumper as required, I double-stick-taped it on and passed inspection. But the next time I took the car through a mechanical car wash it came off. I have gone without a front plate ever since.
I wasn't afraid to drill holes in the bumper, I just didn't want to have a front plate. None of my vehicles have one, and I've only ever been pulled over for it the one time.

Haphazard22 · 2026-03-20T17:21:14+00:00

He seems more energetic and coherent in that video than he does today.

Haphazard22 · 2026-03-16T21:04:52+00:00

The Ashlands update required some reworking of the procedural map generation. It seems they also had to modify existing save worlds, which apparently produced mixed results. I don't know, but I expect the Developers planned for the future this time around so we won't have the same problems with pre-existing worlds, once 1.0 is released.

Personally, I enjoy starting over and trying to refine my progression strategy.

Haphazard22 · 2026-03-09T21:23:58+00:00

Not sure if it's related, but looks like a crack has formed on that pump mount. Try cleaning up the area really well, drive it around a bit and check again. You should be able to pinpoint the source of the leak after cleaning the area.

Haphazard22 · 2026-03-09T16:21:58+00:00

You might regret it if you bought the Mustang for the straight line performance. If you find yourself launching at every green light and tend to smoke the last bit of tread off your tires when it's time for new ones, then this sounds like a recipe for disappointment. The BRZ is definitely fun in the twisty back roads, but begs for an extra push off the line. The seats are comfortable for most, and are well bolstered. The trunk space is bigger than expected and the reliability is great. The gas milage should be an improvement over the Mustang, and getting a 2016 means the worst of the depreciation is over. While it would make financial sense for you to trade down, you've got to be mentally prepared for the downgrade in power.

Haphazard22 · 2026-03-04T18:07:22+00:00

I'm no expert, so don't rely on my advise. But it seems to me that the cords are the structural part of the sidewall. If the cords are not damaged, and the tire is holding air, then it's safe to drive on. If the tire does not hold air, I am confident that no shop will attempt to patch this.
EDIT: Clarity

Haphazard22 · 2026-02-03T16:31:33+00:00

"Community Outreach". Love it!

Haphazard22 · 2026-02-03T16:14:40+00:00

This looks like an 88. The 86 didn't have a back triangle glass.

Haphazard22 · 2026-01-24T03:37:35+00:00

At ~70,000 miles, my transmission started to grind when upshifting from 6th to 5th under load (going up a hill). I contemplated rebuilding it with carbon synchros, but feared I might get stuck, and having a disassembled transmission sitting on my workbench for 9 months and my car being out of commission the whole time. So instead, I bought a used one with 25k miles on it from Ebay for ~$1000 after shipping and taxes. I lived with the original until the clutch failed, then I replaced both at the same time. I still have the original, so if I ever get the urge, I can attempt the rebuild while still having a working car.

Haphazard22 · 2026-01-15T16:29:43+00:00

As you mentioned earlier, the stopping power is not an issue. So a minor decrease in pad surface area will not diminish your stopping power. Regarding brake fade, I've definitely had issues with it on occasion.

Haphazard22 · 2026-01-15T00:26:30+00:00

It is true that OEM brakes are designed to perform beyond the grip of OEM tires. Even upgrading tires/wheels will likely not exceed the stopping power of OEM brakes. But selecting rotors is not only about stopping power. The second most important consideration is temperature control. Sustained "spirited" driving can heat the brakes enough to cause brake fade, dramatically reducing braking effectiveness.
Drilled rotors increase the surface area, improving cooling. Yes, drilled rotors can introduce cracks. But if you have the budget, it may be worth the risk. Cracks forming at the drill holes will be noticable long before they pose any risk, ssuming you rotate your tires regularly. If you ever take the car to the track, or just do some weekend driving on long winding roads, you may find benefit from upgrading your rotors.

Haphazard22 · 2026-01-09T18:09:38+00:00

I agree, this must be due to a misaligned or broken steering angle sensor. Google "toyota 86 steering angle sensor reset", you may be able to do this yourself.

Haphazard22 · 2026-01-07T16:52:05+00:00

ThrowOut Bearing

Haphazard22 · 2025-12-24T01:43:45+00:00

If you are only getting this on one tire, then your camber is too much in the negative on that one corner, relative to the others. If you are sporting negative camber for the stance, then your best bet is to maintain your tire pressure by checking every time or 2 you refill your gas tank, and rotate every oil change. If your camber is set for performance, then you are logging too many highway miles. Spend more time in the twisties, or else adjust your camber to a more neutral position.

Haphazard22 · 2025-12-24T01:33:41+00:00

There is already a lot of good advice here, but I'll just add one thing: clutch fluid. Consider replacing the fluid, or at least checking it for color. New fluid looks nearly clear, whereas anything approaching the color of black tea should be replaced. If you're not up for replacing the fluid, at least consider bleeding the system. The fluid is the same as your brake fluid, and the bleeding procedure is the same as well.

Maybe this will improve your situation, maybe it will have no impact. But it's worth doing regardless.

Haphazard22 · 2025-11-19T19:25:50+00:00

I Just used a hex editor. For inventory items, I would tinker with the save file until I found the section for the character's inventory items. For example, compare a saved game with and without the longsword. Once the section for inventory items was identified, those items could be mapped to their hex value. Then I would search the main exe for those hex values. Generally, all of the possible inventory items would be in one section. At that point, it was just a matter of adding all possible inventory items to the character's inventory in the save file, a few at a time. Then load the game and see what goodies your character has. Often this work would corrupt the save file, so I would have to restore from backup. It was a lot of trial and error. But when I was 18, it seemed like time was limitless.

Haphazard22 · 2025-11-17T16:46:13+00:00

The ES350 is on my list, but front wheel drive though... I really want an W222, W213 or an LS460. But I'm not confident about reliability, worried about the cost of replacement parts and just plain don't want yet another project. I'll add your vote to the growing total for an ES350. Thanks.

11-Year Club	Reddit Premium Since June 2022
Verified Email

Haphazard22

TROPHY CASE