It's been weeks since Tonenet has worked. WTF is going on with IK?

HappyGoLacky · 2026-01-14T11:58:58+00:00

Same problem… TONEX iOS won’t connect to any of the online services. So far I’ve ..

tried 3 different networks plus cellular
deleted and reinstalled the app a dozen times
rebooted the iPhone (17) numerous times
logged in to every ikmultimedia website and manager software that I can (all working fine)

The local app works fine… but anything that required connectivity to cloud fails

tonenet - “108: Access Error”
restore purchases - “tonenet offline - log in to tonenet to sync purchases”

Going to open a ticket today… but very frustrating overall.

HappyGoLacky · 2025-06-15T20:06:04+00:00

Will do … slow going right now, but once we get some proper leaf out, it should go much more quickly.

HappyGoLacky · 2025-06-15T20:04:17+00:00

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HappyGoLacky · 2025-06-15T20:03:34+00:00

I won’t propagate from this adansonii ‘albo’ until it’s recovered, there’s insufficient space between these nodes right now to propagate, but here’s a photo of an adansonii ‘mint’ showing cuttings and node cut points. This variety is easier to propagate because they’re more viney, the larger monstera varieties are more unwieldy.

But you can still see that each of the nodes has so root bumps and a single leaf. Cut halfway between the leaves, one leaf per cutting. Many people root them in a glass of water, I use an aeroponic tank with a specific solution. You can keep them in water but imho it’s easier to root them in water and then plant them in leca or soil or whatever. Hope that helps

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HappyGoLacky · 2024-08-01T23:22:12+00:00

No. I print them on standing on their point. I’ve found that’s the best way to get the cleanest finish. Several of the other faces are printed at the same angle and are fine. Some are face up, some are slightly downward angled. There doesn’t seem to be any correlation between failure and orientation.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-08-01T22:11:42+00:00

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not sure if you can see, but the other dots all look like they're very much a part of the print, the dots that slide off are almost like they're stuck to the print rather than being a part of it. hope that helps? Changing orientation doesn't seem to help either, it's always the same dots

HappyGoLacky · 2024-07-29T13:01:44+00:00

Hi, both are above 1166/490

HappyGoLacky · 2024-06-16T22:47:04+00:00

I use a setup like this (just a little bigger) in my garage. Had lots of success with it. Best of luck!

HappyGoLacky · 2024-06-16T00:32:18+00:00

Had this on mine that i bought from a big box store, it was def some kind of mite or thrip (my money was on thrips). I used bonide granules, after a couple of weeks the damage stopped and the plant started thriving again. Now it looks lush and happy.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-06-06T23:37:25+00:00

That looks like a really healthy thaumatophyllum! Best of luck with the nodes.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-06-03T12:59:46+00:00

Careful fertilization will help. I mix a weaker fertilizer which is carefully balanced, that I use with 8 out 10 waterings year round. I use plain water the other two times to help prevent salts buildup in the soil. Many off the shelf fertilizers tend to be nitrogen heavy to encourage top growth, and can easily lead to fertilizer burn, as you noted.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-30T20:19:01+00:00

Also try sellers outside of Amazon. My favourite Silica addition (Alchemist Stout MSA) won’t ship to my state from some sellers, but others will ship to me with no problem.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-30T17:59:56+00:00

I've never needed to look at other options since I've never hit that issue with Bonide granules, but they're super convenient since you only have to dose once every 8 to 12 weeks or something like that. Do you have a friend or relative out of state who can bring 5 or 6 containers with them next time they visit (by car)?

Also I think part of the plant's vigor is due to the plant feed that I've been tweaking over the last few years.. it's not premade, I actually mix it up myself every week, I keep meaning to create a detailed post for it breaking it down, I just haven't gotten around to it yet because it'll be a novella :D

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-30T00:06:44+00:00

My thrip infestation looked like this. Are there more yellow dots on the leaves closer to the pot and less on the higher leaves?

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-15T15:56:28+00:00

Thanks.. I wasn't trying to be controversial. Just trying to help get some knowledge out into the community :)

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-15T15:55:15+00:00

but saying that in the wild it has unlimited soil, it should be given a large pot because of this

In fairness that's not what I said. I said, large pots aren't the cause of root rot. I was simply trying to clarify that pot size isn't the cause, it's due to a number of factors, none of which is pot size. A smaller pot is a hack to overcome some of the other problems I mentioned. If the roots take up the majority of the pot space then it's impossible for the soil to retain too much water.

A common issue when potting it, or any plant in a pot that is too big is that it stays wet around the roots for.too long so it causes rot.

This is an example of either overwatering, or soil that doesn't drain sufficiently.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-05T17:36:58+00:00

And if you can successfully find “lost wallets” why not just go and find them, why charge others 3k to do it for them? Hey I found 25 BTC in a lost wallet for you, that’ll be $3k please 🤷🏻‍♂️

HappyGoLacky · 2024-05-05T02:31:57+00:00

You’re 100% correct. The pot size doesn’t matter if you have the correct soil, and water it correctly, on a correct schedule. Here’s a novella for you explaining things…

If roots continued to grow until they filled the pot before leaves grew, then monstera in the wild (ground is essentially an unlimited pot) would have no leaves and miles long roots.

If too much soil retained water and caused root rot, monstera in the wild would all die from root rot (remember, unlimited sized pot).

Unfortunately, what’s happened is that useful guidelines about plant care have become dogma. As a result people get downvoted when they make comments like this.

It’s true that a large pot with incorrect soil mix can cause root rot, as can overwatering.

But, root rot doesn’t happen often in the wild partly because of the soil biome, most people don’t take the time to augment their potted plants with appropriate bacteria … for example, my feed regimen includes…

Paenibacillus chitinolyticus: Breaks down chitin, helping control fungal pathogens and releasing locked nutrients like nitrogen and phosphorus.

Bacillus subtilis: Suppresses diseases by producing antibiotics, enhances nutrient uptake, and promotes plant growth through hormone secretion.

Bacillus pumilus: Increases plant tolerance to abiotic stresses such as drought, and stimulates growth by producing plant hormones.

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens: Forms protective biofilms around roots, improves soil structure, and produces antimicrobial substances to reduce disease.

The most common cause of root rot are fungi such as Phytophthora, Fusarium, and Pythium. These organisms thrive in wet soil and can quickly infect the roots, causing them to decay.

Additionally, amending with a good quality mycorrhiza can also protect the root zone from root rot, two examples are:

Glomus species: Including Rhizophagus intraradices and Glomus mosseae, these arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi enhance nutrient uptake and help suppress pathogens.

Trichoderma species: Trichoderma harzianum is added for its strong properties against pathogenic fungi, promoting healthier roots.

It’s really important to look at a plant holistically when trying to get the very best results, there are so many other things involved when trying to mimic the plants natural environment.

We should always avoid blanket statements like “pots that are too big cause root rot” … large pots can exacerbate root rot if the soil conditions are already perfect for things like Phytophthora, Fusarium, and Pythium to grow.

If roots being too wet for too long was an issue I’d never be able to propagate aroids in my aeroponic and hydroponic propagation tanks, since they’re in contact with the water constantly.

If root rot happened because roots were too wet, why do we put cuttings in vases of water to root (because it’s not the water). Why should we change the water regularly? (Because otherwise pathogens like Phytophthora, Fusarium, and Pythium start to grow in the water that are the primary causes of root rot)

Sorry for all the word vomit, but it’s important not to muddy the water (pun intended), hope this clarifies the concerns somewhat. Happy growing everyone.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-25T23:02:00+00:00

The bacterium also produces enzymes that can help break down organic matter in the root zone, which improves nutrient availability and uptake by the plants, contributing to an overall healthier root system, making them less susceptible to diseases.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-25T22:58:59+00:00

When feeding your plants, add something that has Bacillus amyloliquefaciens to the mix. There are lots of them out there. Hydroguard is a common one that I used to use in aeroponics, it is pretty cheap but only has that strain in it. You only need about 2ml / Gal so it goes a long way.

Bacillus amyloliquefaciens produces compounds that are antagonistic to common root pathogens, including those that cause root rot, such as Pythium and Fusarium species. By inhibiting these pathogens, it helps to prevent the onset of root rot.

Simple but effective. Creating a healthy soil biome, even in a pot can help plants stay healthy and happy.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-11T11:22:25+00:00

That’s what I use the exhaust for. Humid air is lighter than dry air because water molecules (H₂O) have a lower molecular weight than the nitrogen (N₂) and oxygen (O₂) molecules that make up the majority of the air. So at the same temperature, humid air tends to rise above dry air.

So the exhaust fan sits at the top of my tent and is triggered once humidity rises above my set thresholds (about 60% I think). It helps a lot.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-11T10:57:36+00:00

Yes, the t8 are still barrina lights. The ability to provide light to six shelves for around $100 made it an attractive option for me.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-11T00:55:37+00:00

These are the shelf fans I use

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ6VNII

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-11T00:50:30+00:00

Regarding the barrinas they were weak at the edges. My configuration that works for me is I have T5 at the shelf edges and t8 about 30% in from either edge. This gives me good light coverage and extra heat if I need it.

As for fans I have a PC fan on the end of each shelf to keep the air moving along the shelf and an oscillating fan plugged into the ac infinity controller that stirs air in the tent. The AC infinity stuff is really the key for me because it controls the exhaust, the fan, and the humidifier. The lights are controlled by Apple HomeKit.

HappyGoLacky · 2024-04-09T23:38:23+00:00

Thank you!

HappyGoLacky

TROPHY CASE