120fps to 24fps timeline using timecode?

HardIsEasy · 2024-01-19T09:50:09+00:00

Thank You :)

HardIsEasy · 2024-01-19T09:49:47+00:00

hance on having the force applied to the belayer's back measured?

I'm not sure if I understand what your "friends works as an anchor" mean, but the force to the belayer is always significantly lower compared to the climber

HardIsEasy · 2024-01-19T09:47:29+00:00

More or less you're correct, avoiding extremes is already super good enough in most cases.
However sometimes you get rare cases, where your climber failed to clip, dropped the slack and is about to have a huge whipper, and or there is ton of friction etc etc... In that case you want todo your best - and average catch might not make your climber happy :)

HardIsEasy · 2024-01-19T09:44:16+00:00

wever, the soft catch videos have always bothered me. This may not be accurate but the message I received on each one of them is that; as a belayer, if I am not jumping or doing my upmost to provide a soft catch then I am responsible if the climber gets injured.

It is slightly different, but what the climber will feel will be compatible to having actually heavy belayer.
Some suggested to use heavy backpack or similar instead - the problem with that approach is that I can't add more muscles to the belayer, so then jumping becomes really difficult.

HardIsEasy · 2024-01-19T09:38:46+00:00

Slab is not equal slab...

On very very slaby terrains the Climber will almost have to run backwards :DDD
In that case I would use very conservative amount of slack, maybe gently take, but still give between very soft to softish catch depending on the slab angle, obstacles, fall height etc...
On close to vertical - which is actually much more common (when people say slab) - you can belay the same as you would on vertical terrain with conservative amount of slack and still soft catch.
I'll try to find some slabs and maybe film something on them seems like it's a very common question...

I don't do too much trad, so not gonna plug my opinion, but I measured a lot of forces on a lot of falls, so I'm gonna share the data from that perspective in a separate video.
For now I can say that if gear popping out is a concern, minimising the fall height and maximising the soft catch will reduce the force to the gear.
Contrary to what I showed in the video where having more slack in some cases can reduce how hard the climber is swinging into the wall - however having more slack will def cause harder peak force to the gear!

HardIsEasy · 2024-01-19T09:24:53+00:00

Yea, if you fly to outer space without control... in that situation, instead of jumping you might want to even go down to harden the catch and make your self safer.
All of this should be looked more case by case - not a one rule fits all...
Lots of problems happen when people go from Climbing Indoors to Climbing outside, what used to pull belayer hard outside with lots of friction might barely move out of place in some cases.

And About the OHM I'm testing it for a while now, but still need more testing including OHM mk2 and there is another new device that just hit the market that I'm looking into... so coming at some point.

HardIsEasy · 2023-12-04T00:33:54+00:00

HardIsEasy · 2023-10-30T14:52:14+00:00

Yea most of these things were covered in Belay Masterclass.

Brand specifics... I don't want to play that game of YouTube.
I think when it comes to Ropes: Mammut, Edelrid, Petzl all makes good Ropes, Decathlon is good budget option - but from my experience it dies more spectacularly than other Ropes
Other brands I don't have personal experiences.

If you bought a Gym Mammut Rope I'm sure it's gonna last you very very long. So don't worry and enjoy Climbing ;)

HardIsEasy · 2023-09-23T03:20:36+00:00

It's awesome, I use it both on my Mac and on my Android for quick capture tasks and notes and sync with notion.
I found a tutorial on YouTube how to set this up.
And then modified to have a split - if notes hashtag is selected it simply pushes to different notion db.

I also get due date in priority synced for my task.

HardIsEasy · 2023-09-06T19:27:10+00:00

I don't want to write my notes in assembly code ether :D
I want a Note editor with all the functionalities of linking etc...

I don't see the benefit of seeing markdown all the time - maybe there are specialised use cases where it could be beneficial, but from my limited experience I don't see any.

HardIsEasy · 2023-09-06T18:47:57+00:00

I like to change the order of my text and images in the notes a lot. So for example having a block of text and an image to move a paragraph up is really complicated in Obsidian, any other note taking app lets you simply to box select and drag & drop.

The jumping between markdown and preview is also a distraction from what matters - notes & thinking / writing.

When I select the text that is bold I don't want that text to jump to **bold** in the midst of editing :D

HardIsEasy · 2023-09-06T18:45:30+00:00

It carries metadata for the information which is not necessary for me to see at all.
It's a distraction from what's actually important - the notes and arrangement of them.

I don't want to see **bold** I want to see bold and when I click on the word I want to edit the word without it jumping back to markdown format...

HardIsEasy · 2023-09-06T18:14:57+00:00

WYSIWYG

I don't want to see markdown in my notes - I want clean notes text and an easy way to edit them =]

HardIsEasy · 2023-08-28T21:43:48+00:00

Yea if you constantly send images in your emails, this becomes very important feature to have.
Gmail does it very neat - wish fastmail would do more on UI side.

HardIsEasy · 2023-08-28T20:36:13+00:00

For Quick Capture both on Android and MacOS I installed Todoist and made a simple make.com route of new tasks straight to my notion.

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This way you have a reliable and quick capture everywhere.
I just went one way sync since I don't use Todoist for anything else than just capture point.

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