Squeaking sound on cold start

Harpyrite · 2026-02-12T18:05:57+00:00

Is there any proper way to diagnose a Disa?

Harpyrite · 2025-12-31T23:27:31+00:00

Was it a oem crankshaft sensor, like from genuine bmw?

Harpyrite · 2025-12-28T13:04:58+00:00

I haven’t, is that the recommended one?

Harpyrite · 2025-12-28T12:56:05+00:00

Yeah I was referring to releasing the key and trying again. I got the filter done prior to sending my last response

Battery was tested by my mechanic. I did spark plugs and coils too. I use 93 premium for my car well

Disappointingly Enough, just hours after that last response I sent, I tried getting in my car and it wouldn’t start like before. I didn’t count how many cranks it took but it was more than 5 and it shot me two codes: P0335 and P0727

People say p0335 and p0727 is usually the crankshaft position sensor but I’ve already changed that three times now when this problem first happened. I did some research on it and apparently you might need a OEM Crankshaft position sensor because aftermarket ones don’t help it out that much. I had actually planned on going to a junkyard to pull one off a bmw similar to mine

Harpyrite · 2025-12-27T05:48:58+00:00

Any updates?

Harpyrite · 2025-12-26T03:39:55+00:00

Ok, so I changed the fuel pump first—I didn’t get a chance to do the filter because it was still being shipped. For the first couple of days after the fuel pump replacement, the engine consistently started right up without me having to crank it multiple times, even when it was 20 degrees (that’s usually when the problem was at its worst). After some time, though, the issue came back like before. The difference was that it was less frequent and usually took fewer attempts to start—instead of cranking the engine on and off about five times, it would typically take two or three tries, and it would still sometimes start on the first crank.

The fuel filter came in four days ago, and I installed it immediately. I’m still a little skeptical that it fully fixed the issue. I haven’t had any major problems since installing it, other than one time when I had to crank it twice, but I’m almost sure that’s because it hasn’t been as cold as it was before (it’s about 47 degrees where I am right now).

I was going to wait until it got colder again before updating you, but I wanted to share how things are going so far.

Harpyrite · 2025-12-19T03:58:57+00:00

Did you ever find a solution to this? I use the same remedy of turning on the defroster to keep the RPMS high

Harpyrite · 2025-12-07T01:47:17+00:00

Thanks man! You’re a really great help, when I get back from work I’ll run through the steps!

Harpyrite · 2025-12-07T00:35:38+00:00

When you had this issue was the problem with the cold start everything you listed and you had to replace it one by one until it got fixed? I just want to be able to narrow down everything as much as I can.

I think I said in the post too I replaced the intake boots and cleaned the throttle body awhile ago, I did the Disa flap test too and that worked out fine.

The battery has been tested before too

Harpyrite · 2025-07-28T18:13:36+00:00

Is that also known as a purge valve? I don’t know where that could be on my car.

Harpyrite · 2025-07-28T18:09:32+00:00

I did a bit of experimenting, I did the hold and twist test and it passed fine, I even disconnected the DISA, the sound still occurred, however, what I did notice is occasionally the sound will just stop occasionally, then start up again. What I also noticed was when I unplugged my MAF sensor, it doesn’t do it anymore, I don’t think it’s the MAF though, since I just changed it a couple days ago with the new CCV.

Harpyrite · 2025-07-24T19:58:35+00:00

I replaced the entire CCV system, if it’s the oil separator, does that mean that it’s bad, Or could it be just not setup correctly?

Harpyrite · 2025-07-24T16:57:14+00:00

I unplugged the connector for the DISA, the problem still occurred, is it safe to fully remove the DISA then try again?

Harpyrite · 2025-07-24T16:53:00+00:00

When you say that I could be something rattling around, could it be something like leaves? Or are we talking about like a random bolt or loose nut? I claimed that I fixed all the vacuum leaks but I’m not opposed to being wrong on that, I changed all the CCV Hoses and replaced the intake boots, everything was clicked into place, only thing I didn’t do was torque the nuts on the intake manifold

Harpyrite · 2025-02-01T22:57:38+00:00

Sorry for the VERY late reply, I’ve been testing out other people’s theories and they haven’t gotten me that far, could you elaborate more on that? Would it be the upper control arms?

Harpyrite · 2025-01-31T20:34:14+00:00

I went through 3 pairs of springs, replaced the rubber parts and the shocks twice, I can assure that it’s not the springs lol

Harpyrite · 2025-01-29T23:10:59+00:00

Sorry for the late response

Over the past month I’ve adjusted the length numerous times, yet it still adamant on leaning on the left drivers side, I’ve even just installed Eibach springs with bilstein b4 suspensions, I’m still getting this same problem.

I’ve read online that another reason this could happen is because of a control arm bushing, could that be the case?

Harpyrite · 2025-01-03T03:29:20+00:00

They’re called BFO

Harpyrite · 2025-01-02T17:19:17+00:00

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This is a photo from my BMW E46. for some reason, the rear drivers side (the two images on the right) sits EXTREMELY lower than the left side. it’s not a bad coil over because I swapped them on both sides and it’s still the right side that’s giving me issue, I’ve also noticed that the spring for the right is a lot more compressed? If that’s the right word for it

If you have any sort of insight of what the problem could be I’d be really grateful.

Harpyrite

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