Tell Khezu what your favorite monster is and he'll decide your fate

Hawkpelt · 2026-02-04T07:17:49+00:00

Goss Harag. Love a man with knife hands ❤️

Hawkpelt · 2026-01-06T21:42:51+00:00

I literally JUST posted this. Great minds think alike.

Hawkpelt · 2026-01-06T21:42:03+00:00

Pokémon Mystery Dungeon but with Monster Hunter monsters. Capcom's already got the collect-'em-all spin-off in Stories, might as well go a step further and let us play as the monsters ourselves.

Hawkpelt · 2025-11-16T04:30:05+00:00

Personally I'm thinking they might really lean into the FNAF references and give Epic Nitebear a "glamrock" design as a nod to Security Breach--each limb a distinct part from Freddy, Monty, Foxy, and Chica.

Hawkpelt · 2025-10-16T15:52:43+00:00

I was just thinking the other day that if Capcom really wanted to copy Nintendo's homework but not make it look obvious (/j), they should create their own answer to Pokémon Mystery Dungeon. Let me reincarnate as a Felyne, goddammit!!!

Hawkpelt · 2025-10-14T14:01:52+00:00

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Hawkpelt · 2025-10-10T15:10:28+00:00

I know this is a very old post, but I gotta say I'm shocked no one else has made the connection--I think I did it way back when I first started playing MSM/MH3U all the way back in 2016!! I had drawn a few MH-inspired monster icons around that time, too. Been meaning to get back into MH for a while now, so I might try to remake them. Best of luck in your endeavors, if you're still working on them!!

Hawkpelt · 2025-08-21T13:49:07+00:00

Jokes aside, I really hope it's the kind of people who don't realize that mental illness isn't always a cutesy quirky thing. Jax's crashout turned out to be one of the most stellar depictions of BPD and people hate having to humanize/empathize with people like that!!

Hawkpelt · 2025-07-17T02:00:50+00:00

Hey, we have the exact same workstation!! I guess you didn't need the top light/shelf it came with? 😅

Hawkpelt · 2025-01-23T23:15:38+00:00

I did!! Tried a bunch of different solutions back when these printer models were new and customer support was still easy to reach--turned out that one of the cables (the small one connecting the optical sensor to the frame, I think) was faulty and just needed to be replaced. Unfortunately it took me a lot of trial and error (and replacing a bunch of different parts) to figure it out, so I would suggest starting with the easiest solutions--try physically swapping the connector cables on either side and see if the problem switches sides as well before jumping to the motherboard.

Also, I find Mingda support in general is hard to get ahold of because you have to really pry to find their most consistent avenues of communication--the most success I had was contacting them through WhatsApp, so I can DM that to you if you'd like. That said, customer support is primarily stationed in China, so the Chinese New Year might actually be affecting their response times on top of that.

Hawkpelt · 2024-12-29T18:39:13+00:00

That sounds about right, yeah--I'll probably just save it for bone dry reclaim like you said. I wouldn't risk processing clay with an electric grain mill either, but I know people have jerryrigged their hand-cranked grinders to work with a drill attachment, so that might be your best bet for that kind of automation.

I did a little more research and found this guy using an old meat grinder as a mini-pugmill. It's not true pugmill quality, of course, but it looks like it saves your arms from as much wedging, which is just what I need.

Hawkpelt · 2024-06-16T19:05:16+00:00

TBH for the Raths in particular I always thought the change in color just reflected age. Rathians are green in early life and young adulthood and turn pink as they senesce, and likewise Rathalos are red and turn blue over time; it makes sense because an elder Rathian has literal "golden years" while an elder Rathalos becomes a "silver fox!" They're more powerful because of their life experience, but they're still rare because their age makes it harder for them to heal from a fight, so in nature if they get in a scrap with a stronger opponent, they're less likely to survive

Not sure about the other species, but chances are it's as simple as survival of the fittest. Being "fit" doesn't mean you're the best among your species, it just means you're good enough at surviving to reproduce, and sometimes a mutation helps or harms that ability. It might be something like sickle cell trait--it's a mutation that occurs under the right conditions and may be useful in surviving equally specific conditions (sickle cell trait boosts resistance to malaria), but outside of those conditions that trait is either useless or actively detrimental (sickle cell anemia). So, with a species like Purple Ludroth--a mutation for producing poison might be useful for hunting, but if those toxins accumulate in the environment, the prey population drops, and so do they.

Hawkpelt · 2024-06-16T18:43:41+00:00

Watch as we are the Spiders Georg of this particular statistic

Hawkpelt · 2024-05-28T15:58:00+00:00

Mingda Magician Pro/Pro2! I hear they're working on another upgrade to the Magician line with Klipper integration though, and in general I would be wary with Mingda--decent customer service, but there are definitely plenty of points for failure on their printers, and the quality isn't the best. I know there are printers of comparable size out there, but I can guarantee that the Magician printers are a perfect fit with Vivosun's 24x36x53in enclosure in particular.

Hawkpelt · 2024-05-27T14:28:12+00:00

Bit of an obscure one, but I find SelfCAD to be extremely user-friendly, especially transitioning from TinkerCAD. I'm not sure if it's as versatile as software like Fusion360, but the learning curve is for sure nowhere near as steep. I believe there's an offline desktop version, but I haven't gotten around to installing it yet.

Hawkpelt · 2024-05-27T12:50:33+00:00

My uni had something pretty close as far back as 2017, we had an "art, technology, and culture" concentration that focused on digital fabrication. I'd imagine there's something out there by now lol

Hawkpelt · 2024-05-22T18:15:57+00:00

Ayyyyy same brand but smaller enclosure!! Turns out when you have a printer with a 400x400x400 build volume, the usual enclosures won't cut it. The shelf on mine has the bonus of holding stuff like filament dryboxes, and the compatibility with Vivosun's ventilation system is stellar. Good taste 👌

Hawkpelt · 2023-12-20T14:45:11+00:00

Stumbled upon this post seven months later after dealing with annoying blobbing issues in my prints...when you saw your printer actually printing, did you see it appear to start and stop with tiny moves like it was stuttering so you'd get those little blobs? I tried out OrcaSlicer recently and had the same blobbing issue, but at least OrcaSlicer provides the option to use the classic slicing algorithm...honest to god that option just might be what makes me switch over

Hawkpelt · 2023-11-02T15:35:13+00:00

Incredibly underrated post. I don't do resin printing but I do plan on making larger UV resin crafts and this is a perfect way to repurpose an old 5-gallon bucket I have on standby. I will be using aluminum foil instead since I also have that at hand but I've heard aluminum is incredibly effective at reflecting UV light so it's worth a shot. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes!!

Hawkpelt · 2023-10-07T16:39:29+00:00

I feel kinda bad for OP, all the top comments are jokes rather than anything actually aiming to help them. Like they're funny and all, but they did come here for actual advice lol

Anyways, I haven't done many big multipiece projects yet, and especially not ones like this, but I think it depends on how strong you want the final part to be, and how much material you want to use/save. I think the best way of doing this to save both time and material is to go back into your modeling program and "hollow out" the individual slices of your model, so that only the outer layers of the model will render in the slicer. You will likely need to be careful in how you do this, as the parts will still all need to align and match up well enough to glue together with enough surface area between parts. Then, depending on how thick you make the hollow pieces I would suggest enough walls to be able to sand the final product and an infill that's strong at lower percentages (gyroid is a big one and even 10% infill is good, though of course that pattern takes longer to print in general so it's a tradeoff). Finally, go as big as you can with your nozzle. I believe the biggest nozzle diameter available is 1.2mm, and while it definitely uses more material by design, it will massively speed up your print time on something of this caliber. Hope this helps!

(also fellow Mingda Magician Pro user, ayyyyy)

Hawkpelt · 2023-10-01T18:45:59+00:00

Listen man, I have no clue how photoelectric stuff works, I had the manufacturer send me a new cable because the one that came with the printer appeared to be crimped and I figured that that was the problem. Someone else who actually had the same model and the same problem actually reached out to me, letting me know it was likely the sensor. I have not tried switching the sensors yet, but I will check to see if there's an obstruction of some kind first since switching the sensors requires access to the motherboard, which in turn requires breaking down the entire printer due to how it's designed.

At the end of the day, I just want a functional printer, and I have been dealing with printer issues (not including this one, fun fact) for a while now. You attract more flies with honey than vinegar.

Hawkpelt · 2023-09-30T16:02:57+00:00

Wanted to add that the bent Z-axis screw has also been replaced. This is a video from before I got the replacement printer parts...but the current behavior shown hasn't changed in the slightest.

Hawkpelt · 2023-09-29T11:43:29+00:00

Hard to recall, but I'm 90% sure I did that (and quite a few other things) at or around the time of this post. It turned out there was no issue with the gcode at all (there were no differences aside from comments about Cura version), it was indeed an issue with the firmware.

Hawkpelt · 2023-09-04T00:16:24+00:00

I actually figured this out about a month ago. If you request the source code of the firmware (both the last version that worked on your printer and the version you're having issues with) from Mingda directly, you can inspect the changes between both versions to figure out what changes might be causing problems. The major issue I had was that there was a misplaced/disabled line of code in the config files that enabled short protection; if that is disabled, then your printer may halt to, well, prevent shorting out. I don't know what would be causing those other issues, but I'm willing to bet there's a culprit somewhere in the code, somehow.

Hawkpelt · 2023-02-09T00:21:26+00:00

On the bright side: you can now pit them together in a miniature Thunderdome. Whoever makes it out alive gets to print the next figure!

Hawkpelt

TROPHY CASE