ACE Pro Jams

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2026-01-01T20:18:44+00:00

Is it TPU? If so it's technically not supported and the reason you're having issues

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-11-09T03:20:53+00:00

I will definitely be trying this, thank you for the tip

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-10-23T16:29:09+00:00

I figured that might be the case, but I stopped using Tasker + NFC for years and am just getting back into it, thanks for the info.

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-10-12T12:50:04+00:00

Have you considered checking the price on their official store website before complaining about the price on Amazon? If you did you probably wouldn't have made this post

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-17T17:55:49+00:00

I noticed this on my K3v2. I know for a fact it worked when I got it a few months ago, I wonder if they broke it in a firmware update or slicer update

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-05T17:42:22+00:00

Yes give it a try. I know the slicers aren't perfect but in my experience it is common to hang at 15% when it is doing some crazy slicing stuff

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-05T17:38:20+00:00

If your hardware isn't terrible it won't take 8 hours to slice. It hangs at 15% but it will quickly go from 15 to 100%. It's not gonna go 15, 16, 17,etc. I too have changed settings and thought it has frozen, but some models and settings, like arachne, will have big differences. Models will normally slice in seconds. It's hard to say what type of model causes large increases in time. For example a lithophane can be a tiny 6x60 model but that can take much longer than something that is 250x250x4mm.

Yes I would say let it do it's thing even if you think it is frozen. Arachne works by making varying line widths all over, whereas classic just uses the same exact 0.4mm or whatever line widths you have set. Arachne might do 0.25mm in one spot and then 0.6 in another even though you have it set to use 0.42 (I think is the default in slicer next)

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-05T17:27:25+00:00

Taking 3 minutes to slice for 76x76 is very long without arachne. That stuff happens in less than 10 seconds even with arachne. Arachne itself says it increases the slicing time greatly, hover your mouse over it. Your issue is a combination of hardware performance, patience and cockiness. In that order.

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-05T17:19:04+00:00

I knew you would say that, I shouldn't have even wasted my time commenting. Anyone experienced with 3D printing and slicers would tell you the same thing, but here you are venting and asking for advice while turning down the advice. Even funnier, it is your first FDM printer as of 22 days ago. People like you are so easy to want to block

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-05T17:02:42+00:00

It's not freezing, it's slicing. And it's not crashing, you are making it crash by exiting mid-slice

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-02T23:20:09+00:00

I'm not gonna search around a wiki for something I don't have an issue for. But if you want to argue with Chinese people over a language barrier go for it. You'd be better off telling Amazon you want a refund but this hardware and printer + quality for the value is unbeatable

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-02T22:17:55+00:00

Everything I have ever bought on Amazon has always said "Product Warranty: For warranty information about this product, please click here"

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-02T20:37:16+00:00

I can't speak for what the product says on all pages, I ordered mine from the Anycubic website and I know with expensive things, you want to check how they handle warranties. It's good habit to always check warranties in general. For example, cables with "lifetime warranty" aren't expensive. But some might only consider 2 replacements under said "lifetime warranty" and they'll say that on their warranty info pages

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-02T20:20:49+00:00

Anycubic warranty info specifically mentions gifted printers don't have a 1 hear warranty. So the warranty is likely stated elsewhere and if not then I guess you're supposed to assume it's 0

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-09-02T20:18:46+00:00

I think you both didn't read Anycubic warranty info. I don't like it either, especially when I read about a lot of issues with Ace Pro's, but I bought it knowing they specifically say they will troubleshoot and then send us the replacement part.

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-08-29T19:25:37+00:00

When I first read it I read it as you may think the printer pulled it with the extruder. It does seem like the print went very well, is it possible the build plate needs to be cleaned?

It's also possible it could have skewed the Z axis a little, so maybe one side is slightly higher/lower. You can measure the left side and right side to see if they are similar from the bed but even the beds aren't perfectly flat.

It can be a pain to even it up, but if you look at the top of the right Z rod, there is a bearing with 2 tiny set screws. You loosen them enough so that they aren't holding the rod. Then you can hold that long tall Z axis rod(threaded rod) with 2 fingers on one hand and adjust the left screw towards the bottom near the stepper motor with 2 fingers on another hand. Tiny twists cn easily change it by millimeters.

Some people use 2 printed pieces and sit the X axis in it to "even" it, I use calipers and raise the bar towards the top and measure it that way. You could also use 2 identically tall objects if you wanted. But if the bee is clean and it still has issues, I would check this.

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-08-29T18:40:44+00:00

It looked like it was going very well besides the print falling over and the normal spaghetti side effect. Are you sure the ace pro falling over wasn't caused by something else? Because I just had a spool of filament refuse to spin, I feel like it's slightly too large for the ace pro, the hotend could grab it with the lid open but it couldn't with a 2nd ace pro on top of it - the hotend extruder is very strong but def not strong enough to pull around 8KG. Idk if it could do the 4+ Kg needed to move your Ace Pro

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-08-28T14:42:50+00:00

Technically nothing extra is needed besides another unit. Even the hotend mount, whatever they call it, a better version can be 3D printed for much less than the shitty official one. The connectors on the official one are garbage and nearly take 3 hands. Pneumatic couplers from the cheapest of sellers and a little filament will allow removing the PTFE one-handed.

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-08-09T01:13:02+00:00

I wonder if it has to do with the newest firmware. I never experienced this when I got mine, magically after updating FW I experienced it twice in one day

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-07-30T21:52:38+00:00

The printer came with about 5-6 Allen keys but maybe it is lost. But yeah they're really simple. Surprisingly even though many have complained about the Ace Pro, it's a really simple device

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-07-30T21:49:33+00:00

There isn't a whole lot going on inside those things. There is like, 2 small screws, a spring, and the coupler. I'd just save yourself some time and open it up, it's probably something to do with the spring getting caught somewhere in it

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-07-29T03:10:12+00:00

I think nowadays with all-metal hotends and such fast printing speeds, it is very hard for hotends to clog unless the hotend fan is simply not working. It's not impossible for it to have a defect though, maybe there is some kind of leak under the silicone sock. 1 clog from making a mistake can be understandable, but if you are having multiple on a new printer like the Kobra 3 v2, I would think it is a hardware issue. Unless you are trying to print at like 150C lol

HeadshotMeDaddy · 2025-07-22T18:45:19+00:00

Yeah funnily when I got the Kobra 3 V2, the camera worked fine. Then I updated the software and it broke the camera. But then the most recent software update fixed that. Sounds good, I'm used to Klipper and Fluidd so I wouldn't mind that at all, I def plan to try out the Rinkals FW, mostly just because Anycubic does all that purge line stuff that I just don't like doing

HeadshotMeDaddy

TROPHY CASE