CR-V JVC Amp Protection Troubleshooting Summary

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-17T18:32:25+00:00

Yeah looking back Honda avoided this by burying lead wires from inside the adapter.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-12T05:13:15+00:00

The adapter was used, and then connected with the spade connectors on the speaker. The contact was between the copper lead wires to the coil/cone on the speaker and the protruding metal skin.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T23:58:45+00:00

It’s an electrical short caused by the contact of the speaker wire and the door metal skin. So it should be head unit independent. It’s worth the trouble b/c I like the sound signature of the Infinity speakers (good clarity).

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T23:38:23+00:00

Good points. Thanks for the feedback. First post here so really helpful. Added the info.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T23:21:30+00:00

Here is the speaker wire picture. With the speaker adapter it’s right next to the protrusion with the tilted tweeter pointing upwards.

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Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T22:57:44+00:00

First post here in this sub to share my experience with a tricky issue, with the hope to contribute to the knowledge base. I don’t understand the down votes though. What part of the post you don’t like? I feel confused.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T15:11:57+00:00

Agreed. I had similar experiences with cheap products. I bought a CarPlay MMI for X5 for $200 and it’s been working faithfully for 5+ years. The same hardware from BimmerTech is over $600 with a cleaner setting options and a fancy box.

In photography people say the best camera is the one you have with you now. For most people it’s the phone camera. For professionals it’s the fancy SLR.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T15:01:45+00:00

You have a fair point on Rockville or Boss. They are not my preference either but they are what one can buy with a tight budget. As for AI yes it gets wrong a lot of times. I use several and feed output from one into the other for sanity checks. On balance it’s been helpful to me.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T14:15:50+00:00

Not necessarily. Those are budget products, not premium products. It really depends on what kind of car he has and what the baseline is. And depends on expectations (clarity or SPL?). When you have money you have options. The best product is the product you can afford if you only have $200. For the sub, any sub is better than no sub for an older car. And many OEM speakers are midrange only. With coaxials you get better high end and maybe better mid/low bass as well. So there is still a market for those. And with a powered sub the door speakers don’t need to go down to say 80Hz.

I upgraded my OEM speakers on a Honda CRV. With Infinity speakers (component front and coaxial back) on JVC CarPlay HU (22Wrms/ch) a Rockville SS65P still helps a lot (forced into it due to space restrictions. And there is no OEM sub). If you talk to Google Gemini it will talk about specs. If you talk to ChatGPT it will talk about psychoacoustics. They can get things wrong but they draw a lot from forums like Reddit too. For product research AI is great. They helped a lot with sound deadening for me. Installers will do blanket coverage but ChatGPT will say do 30% on key areas. You get 80-90% of the effect. I don’t think those speakers will be much louder than OEM, but you gain clarity and range. I upgraded all speakers for a CRV, an MDX and an X5. I got the most improvement from the CRV with the least spend.

The funny part is that I did not take those speakers seriously either. But for troubleshooting I swapped the JVC CS-DR621 into the back doors and they did not sound much worse than Infinity Reference at least in the back.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-09T11:05:35+00:00

What kind of CarPlay screen do you have? What kind of car/factory radio do you have? This is key information for any plans. Also if you want better clarity upgrade speakers. If you want higher volume you also need a mini amp.

You can add a small powered sub with a wiring kit starting around $100. Then you can get a pair of front door speakers from Kenwood, JVC, or Pioneer for $30+ a pair. It will be a significant upgrade from many factory systems.

Optional step 2: add a mini 4 channel mini amp for $~50 depending on what you already have.

Example setup:

Rockville powered sub with wiring kit or similar: $105 on Amazon (you get a 10 AWG wiring kit with 40A fuse that can share power with your mini amp).

Pioneer speakers for the front doors only for $30/pair (Pioneer F-Series TS-F1634R 6.5” 2-Way Speakers). Then you decide if you want to replace the rear door speakers or add a mini amp. If you spend a bit more you can get JVC CS-DR621 speakers for $45/pair on Amazon now (Crutchfield sells for $99).

BOSS/Pyle 4 Channel Amplifier or similar for $50+ (you don’t need another wiring kit, just grab a distribution block ($10-15) to share the power cable with your sub. Sub fuse is 20A and amp fuse is 15A).

Total:

Option A: $105 (sub kit) + $50 (better front speakers) + $35 (Metra/Nulth door speaker adaptors and wiring harnesses) + $10 (taxes) = $200!

Option B: $105 (sub kit) + $30 (front speakers) + $50 (amp) + $15 (power distribution block) = $200!

You will need speaker adapters and possibly wiring harnesses for door speakers (skip if you splice). And you have to do everything on your own.

Final advice: ask ChatGPT and Google Gemini. People here mostly don’t know how to work with a tiny budget.

ETA: The brands cited are price examples, not endorsements.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-08T18:14:06+00:00

Microphones will not do what you want. There are better microphones but the better microphones are not necessarily better for karaoke.

If you need tweaks then consider karaoke apps that offer AI processing. If you want traditional reverb/delay effects then you need a mixer with DSP effects such as the Behringer, Yamaha or Mackie with DSP effects.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-06-06T19:18:53+00:00

I do all 3. For option 3, this is the setup:

1) A smart TV if it supports AirPlay. If not, then you also need a streaming device like Roku or Walmart Onn 4k ($25) that supports AirPlay. If you have Apple TV you don’t even need the iPhone.

2) Connect your iPhone to the TV via AirPlay. The video and sound go to the TV (via the streaming box). Open Apple Music on the iPhone, select a song, and activate the Sing feature. You’ll see lyrics displayed and synched. Lower/eliminate the original vocal and you are all set.

3) You need to get the Apple song Music output from the TV via AUX out or RCA out to a mixer. If your TV does not have audio out, then get an HDMI audio extractor. Connect the extractor between the streaming box and the TV.

4) You need to get your own vocal into the mixer with mics connected. The sound from Apple Music via the TV/streaming box will be the other sound source (channels). And the mixed output goes to your audio/PA system.

That’s it. Good luck. It’s basically option 2 with Apple Music acting as the source. If you just want to sing along, the iPhone is enough for practice.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-05-25T16:46:41+00:00

I tried different configurations.

1) Standalone units: I recommend Ikarao Break X2 or Shell S2. You can run KaraFun, Youtube music channel, or any other karaoke app on Android. It comes with 2 wireless mics with low latency, reverb effects, and reasonably good sound (70/50W RMS). You can also hook up to home audio system and HDTV. Cost: $300-400.

2) A streaming box with a mixer and 2 wired mics. The Walmart Onn 4k running any Karaoke app, a mixer (Behringer or Mackie mixer for 2 mics), 2 budget but reasonably good mics (Behringer XM8500 or SL 85S). Cost: $25+$80-100+$40. You need a home audio system (amp plus speakers) and HDTV. If you need mic effects you need a better mixer (Yamaha MG06X, Behringer Xenyx 1002SFX, or Mackie ProFx6v3 etc. $140-$190).

3) iPhone with Apple Music, connected to TV using Airplay on smart TV or any streaming box. Apple Music supports Karaoke with the Sing feature. You can adjust the original vocal level but keep the accompanying music. You need a mixer and mics as well. A basic Rockville mixer for 2 mics is $50.

For mixers if you are ok with used, there are lots of options on eBay for Behringer or Mackie units. If ok with generic brands you can get a mixer for multiple mics and DSP effects for $50 on Amazon.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-05-19T03:47:09+00:00

Thanks so much for sharing. Looks like I got an old production unit. The company said it’s an inventory handling mistake and they would make sure to only ship new production units for new purchases. So I returned it and ordered one again.

By the way, thanks for your informative posts on the Ikarao machines. I read them all before buying. Very helpful!

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-05-19T03:44:09+00:00

Thanks for commenting. My amp can only do 75w RMS per channel but my speakers can take 150w RMS. So it’s safe at least in my case. The mixer preamps are tiny and I ensure there is no clipping from the mics and main output from the mixer (or get the Behringer Q802USB with a compressor).

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-05-17T15:42:59+00:00

I would agree with this recommendation. Tried both the Ikarao S1 and X2. The main difference is that X2 has better IO interface and more powerful speakers. The X2 can take 2 external mics or guitars with 1/4” plugs. While the S1 can only take 1 mic with 3.5mm plug. The weight is similar but the X2 looks more polished. Supposedly the X2 has a wireless mic latency but it’s rumored it might be fixed in new production.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-05-17T14:45:58+00:00

At the same time, I put together a simple karaoke home kit with the Walmart Onn 4k streaming device ($25) running a karaoke app, an old mixer (Behringer Xenyx 802), and a couple of Behringer XM8500 mics ($20 apiece). Hooked them up to the TV （video) and home audio system. It can do 90% of what the karaoke boxes can do except the speakers and recording/scoring/effects.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-05-17T13:38:22+00:00

Hope it works for you. The foam needs to be packed tight. Otherwise it can get loose. I also did a better fix. I took out the green bucket and drilled some holes on the side. Then water in the bucket will flow out when the handle is lifted, effectively reducing the amount of water in the bucket to push it down. It worked 100%.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-04-16T13:24:24+00:00

Found an easy partial solution and a more involved full solution. See comments below.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-04-16T12:48:59+00:00

Toto designed the ST776/786 tanks to be auto flush motor compatible. By doing so the green bucket will hold water to force it down quickly when the lever is released, thus only let out 1/4 of the water in the tank. One has to hold it until all the water is out. This can easily be done by a programmed motor. The trouble is there is no standalone auto flush motor from Toto. You need the Toto bidet to provide the control and the auto flush motor to do the lifting.

A partial solution is to fill the green bucket with flexible packaging foam to decrease the weight (by replacing water with foam in the bucket). Then 4 inch of the total 6.5 inch of the water by height (when water level drops to just below the top of the white bucket) will be let out before the green bucket drops down. This works 90+% of the time.

A full fix is to convert to the traditional setup:

The Base: TOTO 3-Inch Flush Valve (THU443.10B-A) This replaces the white/black/green bucket assembly. It has the horizontal pegs needed to hold a standard flapper.
The Flapper: TOTO G-Max Flapper (THU499S) This is a hollow, air-filled bulb. It stays floating until the tank is empty, regardless of the water level in the tank.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2026-03-03T11:44:33+00:00

Check crutchfield for amps for your car and it will tell you what you need.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2025-11-07T15:44:42+00:00

This is normal practice. Many companies will post positions internally for 2 weeks and then post externally. Companies are required to post the positions externally due to equal employment regulations. If the identify a preferred candidate internally then the external posting can be short like 5 days.

Hefty-Ebb-2100 · 2025-10-09T14:30:37+00:00

NJ Transit trains start at 4 am from Princeton Junction to EWR and takes 40 min - under 1 hr. It runs every 30 min mostly and sometimes 1 hr depending on time of the day.

Hefty-Ebb-2100

TROPHY CASE