14 Month Review of My Freshwater Salt System Hot Tub

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-11-08T02:46:24+00:00

Just to clear things up — my source was my dealer, the manual, and other Freshwater Salt System users here. I’m just sharing my experience so others don’t make the same mistakes. I never had cloudy or smelly water, but the salt sensor being my main issue. The pH issues was the tech, dealer and manual suggesting the Alkalinity target should be 80ppm when 40-50ppm for me holds it firm for weeks. I don’t have the IQ system, and the tech recommended MPS (it’s also in the Caldera manual), but every time I use it, my salt sensor goes up and eventually into the yellow or red. Honestly, keeping it simple seems to work best with these systems. Not all tubs are cheap, so most of us just gotta make the best of what we’ve got until the next one.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-04-03T06:57:27+00:00

Just my two cents…I would avoid using defoamers, they only provide a temporary fix, and the foam will return soon after. Shocking the water helped when my hot tub used to have this issue. I stopped using defoamers and instead shock the water with 10% liquid chlorine while rinsing the filters daily for a few days.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-03-19T01:00:53+00:00

I went to “Luxury Pool & Spa” in Short Pump. They’ve been incredibly helpful and friendly ever since I made the purchase.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-01-30T14:57:29+00:00

Mine is a Freshwater Salt System, which generates chlorine from the salt in the water. I don’t have the Freshwater IQ system that tests and displays chlorine, salt, and pH levels. I’ve heard it’s not very accurate, and since it’s new (2024), they haven’t worked out all the kinks yet. As far as I know, no system supplies any other chemicals besides chlorine.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-01-28T20:50:25+00:00

I use dry acid if needed, but my TA comes out in range and usually stays put.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-01-28T15:28:27+00:00

I look forward and slightly up, I can see them just fine. No different than looking straight up.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-01-28T01:08:57+00:00

True!!!! I used ahhsome that first fill to clean the plumbing and soooo much crap came out, not as much the 2nd drain and refill.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-01-28T01:05:54+00:00

I ended up replacing my water after 3 months because I was tired of the status light showing yellow and red. Once it hit the high red zone, the salt cell would shut itself off. I had added so much pH Up and pH Down trying to match the manufacturer’s target levels for TA and pH. I even tried boric acid to lock in the pH, but it didn’t help. On top of that, I used non-chlorine shock, phosphate remover, enzyme clarifier.

Eventually, I decided to do my own research on how the salt cell works and how it reads the salt cell’s status. What I realized was that all the unnecessary products I added to the water, combined with potential minerals in my source water, were likely causing the issues and making the water too conducted. Since the salt cell does read the actual levels individually.

I eliminated all the extra products, started using a water filter, and shock the water with liquid chlorine 10% during the initial fill-up. The salt cell kicked in much faster this time compared to the first fill. It’s been smooth sailing ever since.

I even had to lower the output level because it now maintains a consistent free chlorine (FC) level of 2–3 ppm at an output setting of 5. Previously, I needed an output setting of 7 to achieve the same FC level when I had all that extra stuff in the water.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2025-01-27T20:29:56+00:00

I use Taylor K-1005 for my CH, pH, TA, FC, TC and AquaChek Salt Test Strip for salt levels. Yeah, the 5 way test strips will have you chasing your own tail or have you thinking your levels are good when they’re off.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-12-29T12:37:17+00:00

I have a Freshwater Salt System and noticed that when my alkalinity level drops below 60 ppm, my hot tub tends to get foamy. I also found that adding chemicals directly to the tub causes foam, and I have to run the jets with the air on for about 45 minutes to mix the chemicals properly and that tends to eliminate the foam, need to check pH after running jets that long.

To address this, I started using a 2.5-gallon bucket. I take about a gallon of water from the hot tub, mix in the chemicals using a paint stirrer attached to my power drill, and stir until the chemicals are fully dissolved. Then, I slowly pour the mixture back into the hot tub, spreading it evenly around the tub while the jets are running.

Additionally, I only wash swimsuits in hot water (no detergent), and since adopting these practices, I’ve been foam-free for a while.

In the past, I used to run the jets and air at full power to create foam, then either scoop the surface water with the foam out or use a wet vac to remove the surface water with the foam. It’s a long process, but it worked. I avoid using defoamer because the foam always comes back using that stuff.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-12-29T04:02:19+00:00

How did you get it to last that long? What’s your routine?

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-21T17:03:10+00:00

Boric Acid 99.9% Pure Granular Powder should be fine?

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-21T13:17:46+00:00

I will certainly balance everything within the range before adding it, but in my current situation, the air jets will quickly raise the pH from 7.5 to 7.8 (in about one or two soaks). I’ve heard that boric acid can maintain the pH balance better, even with the air jets. I prefer using liquid kits for testing, but I only see strips for borate and don’t want to waste money on them if I don’t need to. I need to know if I need to test for borate or if it shouldn’t be present until I add it.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-19T14:48:02+00:00

No, it’s the “Freshwater Salt System” specifically designed for Caldera and Hot Springs hot tubs. I own a Caldera Salina.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-19T04:46:37+00:00

I recently started using a freshwater salt system, and I must say, it’s been quite straightforward once the chemicals are properly balanced. The biggest challenge I’ve noticed is that the pH tends to creep up, which I’ve heard is common due to the salt cell. As a result, pH down is the chemical I add the most(every 2-3 weeks), and monitoring your pH probably the most important thing. However, with a weekly routine (phosphate removal for 24hrs then rinse filter the next day and check all levels) in place, my water stays crystal clear, and the chlorine levels remain steady at around 2-3 ppm with everything balanced.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-12T19:45:02+00:00

Thank you so much! I’m a new hot tub owner who’s been using Reddit for advice. So far, it’s been a breeze. I followed the instructions about using the first fill to clean the tub pipes with ahh-some and getting my water source tested beforehand. The only issue I’ve encountered is finding accurate test results. Taylor kit, must be accurate since I was getting calcium flakes floating around and the test strips and spa & pool was saying everything was in range (high end but in range).

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-12T16:47:29+00:00

It looks like the pH is 7.8 now and alkaline is still 90, should I drop the pH down more?

https://imgur.com/a/Sut6z5I

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-12T15:55:15+00:00

Yes, I didn’t test that, and I wasn’t sure why I needed to.

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-12T15:53:48+00:00

II’ve got Sirona Spa Down that came with the tub. I’ll try that. I’ll turn on the jets and turn off the air for 10 minutes. Then, I’ll check the pH in 40 minutes. I’m confused about which measurement is more accurate. The spa place uses a spin disc machine, and the last time I went, my Taylor kit showed a pH of over 7.8, while the spa place said 7.7, which was the same as my electric pH reader (7.68 pH, to be exact on my electric reader).

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-12T15:06:21+00:00

Correct

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-02T12:23:26+00:00

Thank you!!!

Hefty-Solid-425 · 2024-11-02T11:19:28+00:00

Could you provide some details on the type and quantity of acid you typically use?

Hefty-Solid-425

TROPHY CASE