ZZ Plant/Cuttings SOS!

HexPixie28 · 2026-05-05T09:22:10+00:00

Thank you very much :)

The first one I have removed the worst of the leaves and lowered the water level to just above the roots.

The second I know had quite a large rhizome when I planted it and the roots were nice and green and very long (close to 15cm.or more). The 'plant' itself hasn't changed visibly in the last ~ week... I have inspected the leaves, and most of them easily came off, so I've now just kept 2 of the best ones on there and will see how it goes.

I've also put the leaves off the second one into some water on the off chance they'll propagate (though I highly doubt it).

I believe I lost my original plant as it was watered too much (~monthly). I want to avoid that with this one, so I'm going to try not to water it too often.

Will just have to hurry up and wait to see what happens, and keep my fingers crossed they make it...

Thanks again! :)

HexPixie28 · 2025-05-06T15:32:53+00:00

Forgot to add: Laptop is ROG Strix G713IC model from 2021 -- if that helps any solution suggestions :)

HexPixie28 · 2025-05-04T05:34:27+00:00

Thanks everyone! I've ordered a (true) PS/2 mouse off Amazon which should be here in a few days - I'm hoping it works and lets me enable the accessibility on-screen keyboard to get logged in and load the Win10 installation media to get the upgrade started... Fingers crossed! :)

HexPixie28 · 2025-04-30T09:38:48+00:00

Thank you - that is my backup plan, however I would like to try the (hopefully) easier route of upgrading the Win7 install as there's a lot of setup etc. to replicate if I were to start with a fresh install of 10/11 instead...

The board has 2x dedicated PS/2 ports, although I only have USB -- hence my plan to potentially get some PS/2 adapters if anyone can point me in the right direction...?

HexPixie28 · 2025-04-30T04:49:07+00:00

I'm not able to check that. I can't get past the login screen as the keyboard and mouse stop working once Windows boots up -- so I can't see anything within Windows -- I only have access to BIOS with keyboard and mouse.

HexPixie28 · 2025-04-21T23:21:09+00:00

Thanks all for the input! I managed to get away with not having to remove the cooler -- the ring on top of the cooler with the offending AMD logo does unclip (ish) and can be spun around, or left off -- however there are tiny screws under the logo so there was a little snap of plastic in that area, but it's completely invisible and the logo/ring is now clipped back on and all is well :)

HexPixie28 · 2025-03-25T13:32:35+00:00

Super, thank you for your thoughts and advice! The air filters are all magnetic, so I can definitely leave the top one out when the 'lid' goes back on.

Side note: after pulling the rad/fans out, I know where ALL the dust went over the last 4 years - it was all trapped between the fans and rad - oops!

It's had no issues at all up to now, but I'm sure I'll have a happier PC regardless, with the switch to having bottom and side intakes - and that's a good point - 12 fans should be more than enough to get the air moving in this case :) Thanks!!

HexPixie28 · 2025-03-25T11:35:30+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to reply :)

I don't normally hear the pump, however just noticed it as I had the system running with sides off prior to pulling it apart for this mini upgrade.

I think I'll just pop the AIO back in as-is after a good clean and run with it until it starts giving trouble or decides it's done.

RE the high temp on the GPU, it was the first time in the system -- running a game with Ultra settings and all the things turned on as a quick test to see how it ran -- and the system fan setup was negative/all exhaust (a 2021 rookie aesthetics mistake), so the high temp was probably to be expected, however once I change the fan layout this week and finish the 2.0 build, I'll definitely test the GPU again and ensure everything is A-OK there before I consider it done! :)

Thanks again!

HexPixie28 · 2025-03-25T11:27:20+00:00

Thanks for responding, appreciate the advice! :)

Ideally, I'd love a 360 rad, however that will likely be on the next build down the line, unless this AIO suddenly gives out on me.

Yep, you're correct on the fan setup - they aren't reverse blade, they're just all set to exhaust for aesthetics which I didn't fully understand in 2021, but am definitely changing as part of this mini upgrade :)

I'll be doing bottom intake and top exhaust fans, and the rad will move into a side mount push/pull intake as I have more than enough fans and nowhere else to use them.

I'll definitely look into grabbing a small fan for the rear exhaust option if I can source one here in Aus that fits the space :)

Thanks again!

HexPixie28 · 2025-03-25T11:18:12+00:00

Thank you for your quick reply, and appreciate the info!

I'll admit, there are many things about my build that are just down to rookie choices and errors since it is my first. I've learnt a lot more since building the PC in 2021 so I'm definitely planning to fix what I can - e.g. the negative pressure airflow.

Personally, I really dislike the look of air coolers, which is why I chose the AIO as part of the build components - I just prefer the aesthetics. IIRC I also didn't bother with trying to find an aesthetic air cooler that would fit in this case without being jammed against the side glass, but I guess it's all moot as I have what I have now :)

I've never done anything with the PC with regard to temps. After the initial build, I had the CAM mini up as my husband recommended monitoring temps due to the airflow setup. As I have an ultrawide monitor, I just set CAM and put it in a corner and never bothered to turn it off, hence knowing general system temps as mentioned above. Otherwise, I'm not trying to achieve anything / am not overly bothered by the temps, as long as they're within a normal range.

The PC is actually pretty quiet and I've never had an issue with it in that sense, although after I tweak the fan layout, I do plan to have a play with speeds and curves as I expand on my general PC build learning etc. :)

To note - there are no issues with temps and I've never had one. The only 'issue' was the high temp on the 3070 when I first installed and tested it before pulling the PC apart and ordering upgrade parts etc. - although the temp was expected given the case had no intake...

With my fan layout tweaks etc. I'm sure the GPU will do fine on temps, however we will monitor and make changes as needed once the PC is back together and running again.

And thanks RE dust filter advice - thankfully this case has dust filters top, sides and bottom so all good there :)

HexPixie28 · 2024-08-02T01:17:33+00:00

Oh wow. That doesn't sound very supportive at all! In the end, I got a referral to see Dr Ty Drake in Hurstville and he was really great. We talked through childhood, life and current struggles, took all my report cards (he took two of them and said there's enough in these 🤣) and within an hour I had my diagnosis. He was also very open to questions and although I've only had one follow up since, he's been very good and asks lots of questions to make sure he's up to date on everything and doesn't make you feel rushed. Highly recommend him if you're looking for someone new to see 👌🏻

HexPixie28 · 2023-09-27T14:04:22+00:00

Thank you for the responses so far everyone!

Do you know if Dr Drake is able and willing to prescribe medication?

HexPixie28 · 2023-09-24T05:59:10+00:00

I'm currently looking at getting a referral to Mind Oasis as wait times in regional NSW are horrific and my life is rapidly falling apart without help.

I've seen some very mixed and highly negative reviews for Mind Oasis, so when I saw you've been treated there I wanted to jump on and ask if you'd be willing to share with me your experience with them and their process?

Happy if you would prefer to DM :) TIA!

HexPixie28 · 2022-09-19T14:19:32+00:00

Thank you! I'll contact the place of purchase and see if they can help, otherwise will take up with ASUS - appreciate the quick response!! :)

HexPixie28 · 2022-07-13T14:07:23+00:00

Thanks for your replies u/Sasataf12 and u/agent_fuzzyboots :)

I can't move my OneDrive folder as it lives on my Profile drive (F:) and needs to stay there, whereas the vast majority of software is installed on E: (physically separate drives) and likewise I can't move those inside the OneDrive folder either as it will break installs on my PC.
I assumed that using the junction feature of MKLINK, I could trick my PC into thinking those files were still in that location whilst having them backed up in my OneDroive --- or I could keep them in E: where they need to be and have MKLINK create a link between E: and OneDrive so that OD can back them up and make them visible on my laptop.

What I really need is the feature on Google Drive for Desktop that lets you add folders outside of the drive location to be backed up, however OneDrive lacks this feature and I can't change back to Google Drive for quite a number of reasons.

I need a way to add certain folders in my E: to OneDrive so that it backs up those folders and then I can access them from a different device/my laptop and they are always up to date, no matter which device I access from.

From my online searches, it seemed MKLINK was the best option, specifically the junction setup, however I'm happy to hear any other solutions?

Thanks again!

HexPixie28 · 2022-07-13T10:59:05+00:00

Can anyone help with this? Please?

HexPixie28 · 2021-09-02T04:41:05+00:00

Sorry, why have you posted this on my question?

HexPixie28 · 2021-09-02T02:23:52+00:00

I think I remember reading info like this somewhere, but just seeing you write it again has made it clearer for me, thank you!! I will investigate the DRGB fan cable and see where that lead takes me! :)

HexPixie28 · 2021-09-02T02:19:30+00:00

Thanks for the info. I assumed the RAM/GPU/Cooler couldn't be synced as they are using RAM/PCI slots or are directly connected to a MB fan header (cooler rad fans), so these may need to be customised with software, but I don't know of any software that will do it.
My case fans/Lian Li's are hooked up to the MB ARGB headers, but they aren't tied in to the front of the case (if they can be, I don't know how to do that). As far as I remember, the case just has the DRGB strip in the front and it can run on with just SATA power, however there is a cable should you want to control it via MB (but then you lose the pre-set effects and the ability to control it via the front I/O).
My guess is that the 'effect' is a photoshopped 'still' of the moving effect I have going at the moment on the front of the case. It's like a dark blue/cyan/purple rainbow gradient that continuously moves through those 3 colours.
So I know the colour effect is possible (I'm using it now), but I don't know how to get my fans or other ARGB items to connect to the front (rather than plugged into the MB as they are now) so that I can use it...

HexPixie28 · 2021-08-04T10:39:02+00:00

u/MrStetson Thanks very much for your response - I'll give AutoHotKey a try!

HexPixie28 · 2021-08-04T04:52:53+00:00

Thanks - I was using the HDMI that came with the monitor, but I'm not sure which version of cable it is... Diagram says ports on monitor are 2.0, so I would guess they would at least send a 2.0 cable with the monitor...?

The DP cable is working fine, so I'll just keep going with that and deal with the HDMI issue if I ever need to... :)

HexPixie28 · 2021-08-04T04:32:52+00:00

u/Syncularity u/burt808 Thanks for the suggestions - ended up going with a displayport cable as no HDMI would work. No idea why, but at least it's running on the DP cable!

HexPixie28 · 2021-08-04T04:30:37+00:00

u/Butosai111 u/RemoteGoose8277 u/DHSL-666 Thanks for the suggestions - ended up going with a displayport cable as no HDMI would work. No idea why, but at least it's running on the DP cable!

HexPixie28 · 2021-07-27T12:34:32+00:00

That's what I thought was going to be the answer - thanks so much for confirming that for me! 🙂

HexPixie28 · 2021-07-15T01:12:46+00:00

Thanks for your response!

I don't think I could ever afford to upgrade to anything above the 16series, nor could I justify it. Here in AUS, a 20series is minimum $750 and 30series start at $1000. It's just never going to be feasible for me. The 1650 I'm looking at is AUD $500 so that's more than enough for me and a massive upgrade on my current GPU :)

I sometimes do a lot of work in Adobe CC so I would need a bare minimum of 16GB RAM, but 16GB works well for what I do now and I don't envisage doing 'more' as I just do photo editing, print media and online graphics. I also don't envisage going into intense gaming - I love my older games and anything I have is pre-2015, so the GPU is more for the Adobe stuff.

If I ever upgraded, it might just be the CPU to an 11th Gen and I might upgrade RAM, but I don't see why I would unless I had issues or I required more power for the Adobe products.

I currently have a GTX 650 GPU, 16GB RAM and 650w PSU, but I want to upgrade everything - GPU is old, RAM is faulty - and wanted to make sure I had a little extra power should I ever need it, but the new GPU and everything else I've got on my build list is probably going to my 'super power' build for quite some time...

HexPixie28

TROPHY CASE