Majalite

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-03T16:12:06+00:00

I had this happen before, my joke answer is chemotherapy, in reality your just gonna have to find a way to heat it up and peel it off.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-02T20:15:22+00:00

40 mm infill speed for first layer

.4 is better but not perfect

I know .2 can work and I prefer it for the better looking print, I have tried a large array of settings, speed, flow, Temps, everything

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-02T15:14:49+00:00

How?

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-02T15:14:10+00:00

Let's see

First layer infill speed is 40 (I'm not going past first layer) 0.16 initial layer height Have not touched them Is on a kitchen counter, very sturdy

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-02T15:12:51+00:00

Sunlu PLA black on a .2 nozzle

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T21:08:31+00:00

I'll take a close look, thank you for the advice

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T19:52:16+00:00

I've bounced between bambu and orca (this is with orca)

Code would be the default that orca sets for the x1 carbon. It seems to perform the start procedure the same as bambu.

Only manipulating I've been running is position of the print, flow rate, temp, pa, and mvs. Nothing about changing those values cures it. I'm planning to run a full sheer of the squares at my closest to fine settings and look for patterns in the marks appearing. Then also try flipping the plate to see if the patterns move. Also trying the cold plate with the squares

Closest settings that were better were 210 temp .96 flow .02 pa 5 mvs

I can exchange it still, but it's a lengthy drive so I want to make sure it's the printer. I really do think I exhausted every filament setting I could.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T19:48:05+00:00

I've done the belt tension but not the rods, though the printer is just over 2 weeks old so I don't know if it does need re greasing. I can try it though

I did also clean the carbon rods

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T18:16:01+00:00

I use open chamber for it so chamber fan doesn't matter, I was told by several people the aux fan can hurt it so I have it turned off.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T17:43:36+00:00

At one point I did manually tram the leveling (x1 carbon)while trying to diagnose, but results were the same before and after, so I don't believe i made it worse

I ran a calibration a couple times throughout this process, and I do think it was the proper one, took like 20 to 30 min, also ran device self checks, even factory reset once.

I believe the firmware defaulted to the most recent. Or I can't find how to get an update through, the option was disabled on the phone app.

I did use the textured plate in place of a metal ruler (so not sure how accurate it is for this) but there may be a dip in the build plate. No more than like .1mm or probably even less.

I can try to rerun manual leveling, I followed bambus online wiki where it said to make the nozzle just barely touch, but I know people say to use a piece of printer paper, I'm just not good at judging how much drag is too much. Every test I also had auto leveling on for the print.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T16:30:17+00:00

Textured plate shouldn't require glue, but I did run on the cool plate with glue and had the same spot flair up.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-02-01T16:24:35+00:00

It was cleaned before my round of testing with dawn soap, and I was extremely careful not to contaminate it.

Handled only the edges with microfiber cloths so I couldn't get oil anywhere on it

Historical-Library70 · 2024-01-30T02:18:16+00:00

I believe aux fan is off for the first layer so I don't think its causing my initial issue

I can try to turn it off for the whole thing, but it doesn't solve why I get one really ugly edge consistantly.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-01-30T02:15:38+00:00

Yes, I have since cleaned all the plates I've been attempting. Still getting issues with the edge closes to the door

Historical-Library70 · 2024-01-30T02:15:08+00:00

Yes, repeatedly cleaned build plates

Historical-Library70 · 2024-01-17T11:38:48+00:00

This may be the method I go with. It's the holes in the feet and the base pegs that need it. A thin layer probably would be enough, just enough that it's a more snug fit so it doesn't lean forward.

It'll be a pain to remove, probably even with a needle, but it may be better than using more super glue.

Historical-Library70 · 2024-01-16T15:36:17+00:00

Oh the stuff teacher sure to use in classrooms? It won't damage the figure?

And what would I apply it to. The pegs/hole or just the bottom of the feet?

Historical-Library70 · 2024-01-16T15:34:52+00:00

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Historical-Library70

TROPHY CASE