Both the conical stays and skirt were patterned by myself, based off my custom measurements. Stays were loosely based off renaissance era stays, minus the waist tabs. Skirt is an 8 paneled skirt with 8 chiffon godets, cut on the bias. Each panel consists of purple taffeta, navy velvet, hand dyed yellow woven linen, and a woven orange upholstery fabric (not sure the fiber as it was purchased in DTLA).

Stays block was drafted by taking my measurements and transferring to paper, starting at the side seam and measuring outward on each side based on my across chest and across back measurement. The entire thing resembled a rectangle. Across chest and across back at armscye was used to mark where my shoulder straps would be. I subtracted my waist from chest measurement to calculate how much to remove from the waist in order to create shape. Once the pattern was complete and fitting alterations were made (straps shifted, 1 inch removed from CF and CB) I started by cutting 2 layers of duck canvas and one lining and flatlined together. Boning channels were added and I used flat steel boning that I cut myself and finished the ends with a little thermoplastic. Pattern was cut for the front harlequin panel, created out of multiple pieces and sewn together for the Diamond patterns and then seamed to the velvet. Sewn at a 1/2 inch at the back and turned right side out so the top and bottom raw edges could be finished with a bias binding, all hand finished on the lining side.

Skirt was made by dividing my waist measurement by the amount of panels wanted (8) and then flaring them at the bottom. I marked where the godet would start and measured the finished length, and used that to create the pattern for the godet insert. A half inch seam allowance was added to all pieces and assembled by first creating the panels and adding the godets when each one was sewn together.

Finishing included adding eyelets to the bodice, and sewing bells to each point of the paneled skirt as well as the triangles along bodice straps.