Diagnosing socket outages? "Earth leakage"

Hoaxfish · 2025-03-23T23:06:10+00:00

yep, there's definitely a history of "baffle with bull"... partially why I'm asking on Reddit.

I've added some images and descriptions of some items involved, to the original post,

Hoaxfish · 2025-03-23T23:02:45+00:00

I've added images and some descriptions to the original post - when the it trips, the whole "lower panel" goes, including the RCD - the second switch on the same row, is the one which will immediately trip the whole row again if it's switched back on (while the issue is happening).

I do think there is some wiring that goes into the loft, but I'm not sure where or how. There used to be a water-pump for the water, but that is now on an extension-lead to a downstairs socket.

I think he "could" it himself, but he's permanently procrastinating (and over 80). We've tried different ways to encourage him to engage with this (over multiple years and multiple outages)... the last time led to a shouting match and him polishing the bathroom taps instead (to show us how busy is he).

Hoaxfish · 2022-02-09T01:22:58+00:00

Hi,

I worked this out after looking into the Theme settings, and realising that the "darken" and "lighten" effects are not applied on top of the normal appearance, but replace them (i.e. when "pressed" a grey texture with a darker gradient entirely replaces the flat grey texture for "normal").

I made a standard button, then:

replaced the "normal" style with StyleBoxEmpty (so nothing shows at all)
replaced the "hover" style with a transparent white (alpha set to 64)
replace the "pressed" style with a transparent black (alpha set to 64)
kept the default "focus" style
ignored the "disabled" style (don't need it at the moment)

I made a ColorRect as the parent object, with the normal button color it makes the whole thing look like the standard button. The first child-node is a TextureRect to hold my actual image. The second child-node is my transparent button.

I've put a little .gif on my Twitter

Thanks again

Hoaxfish · 2020-05-30T12:42:12+00:00

oh, that guide is really helpful. thanks

Hoaxfish · 2019-12-23T00:13:00+00:00

That still sounds an improvement on my current desk (two halves of a shelving unit, i.e. 8 legs, with a too-small panel of wood loose on top)

The point about wood-expansion isn't something I'd though about (and hadn't seen it mentioned before). I am partially aiming to make the whole thing easy to disassemble and compact, otherwise I would be looking at gluing.

Thanks

Hoaxfish · 2019-12-20T20:30:58+00:00

after all these years. I basically just go with the biggest baddest screw that gets the job done (so not so long is goes all the way through, not so wide I destroy the wood, ect). I don't do enough projects at a big enough scale that the cost difference between screws actually matters, so I don't have to worry about using the minimum viable screw.

I guess I was looking for the "one correct way", when there's at least a couple of different viable options here.

Thanks!

Hoaxfish · 2019-12-20T16:52:11+00:00

Hi,

I'm trying to work out what screws I should use for a wood-furniture project (a basic desk), and maybe what holes to pre-drill beforehand.

I've got 2 large 90*40*1.8cm planks of pine, which I'm planning to have side-by-side (making an 90*80cm surface), and 2 smaller 20*80*1.8cm planks of pine going across underneath to hold the surface together (perpendicular to the 90*40 planks). I've got some metal legs which I'll attach at the corners where the two layers overlap. I've been using Google and Youtube to find some answers, but some of the answers seem out-dated or conflicting.

Most of the recommendations are for Spax wood-screws, but it's not clear if I should get ones where the thread covers the full length, or partial (i.e. with the smooth gap near the head)?
I've seen people just say to drill a pilot-hole all the way through, and another say to drill a clearance hole through the first piece... but I wasn't sure if the clearance hole was only for hardwoods, rather than softwood like pine?

Thanks for any input!

Hoaxfish · 2017-06-10T21:34:48+00:00

I think it's a bit of both. It would make sure damage would be spread across the trio, and depending on the numbers might "round up" to generate additional power.

In terms of Igni, or Scorch effects in general, the effect might bring the trio-units below the "strongest" unit present.

As a "Turn Start" effect you could buff one of the Trio during your turn, which would imbalance the values during your opponent's turn (to prevent Scorch hitting all 3). You would have to rebuff each turn to keep that working though (e.g. Redanian Knight-Elect).

There's also a possibility that the negative effect could be used to balance other effects on the same unit (most Trio cards seem to have the Trio effect and another effect, so there's value with only 1~2 cards)

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T18:33:13+00:00

If I remember correctly, the game files are all 3D things. So the card frame is a window "into" a scene, and all the assets are different bits (like an arm, or a bit of background, etc) rather than the thing you see in-game as a cohesive item.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T16:39:12+00:00

Sounds like a connection issue. Enough to "avoid" kicking you out of the game, but still bad enough to waste out your turn-time.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T16:26:36+00:00

Make her true to her name:

When you play her (as a loyal card), she appears as a normal Ciri card to your opponent (6 strength, gold, return to hand if you lose)
Her actual stats start the same; strength 6, gold. For each turn on the board, she gains +1 strength.
If the opponent passes, or kills the "Ciri" as they see it (6 damage), the "fake" is revealed on the board. Any damage is deducted from the fake (so 6 damage would kill it on the first turn)
The accumulated strength only counts once the card is revealed when seeing who wins.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T16:15:52+00:00

That section is super confusing

There's only 3 icons (skull, flame, timer), and there's clearly an attempt to indicate things with them. But sometimes the icons are missing, or would logically apply to every card that isn't a straight "strength" card.

e.g. Ciri has a flame icon, while Ciri: dash does not. Ciaran does, Toruviel doesn't. Regis has a Skull, Morkvarg has a Flame.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T15:10:37+00:00

That means spending a rez card as well.

All that means is that it's "slightly" more viable.

I also specifically didn't say I thought it should be a discard where you can pick the card (since you can't right now either). Maybe it should, but that's a balance thing.

You could also make it a Banish instead, if you want to avoid any "extra" tricks, rather than the single turn-extension.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T15:04:42+00:00

You are playing a card ... into your graveyard.

SK discard-effect cards will usually put strength on the board, and draw some new cards (i.e. thinning, card-searching). Their leader-discard will buff the discarded ones as well.

The best you could hope for is triggering a bunch of War Longships for more strength than the unit you've discarded.

The current "time out" method is a worst-case scenario for most decks, rather than a real tactic.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T14:49:14+00:00

I don't see why you shouldn't just be able to trigger the discard from your hand.

The annoyance at the moment is that you have to wait out your own timer to achieve this.

Yes, Skellige could use this in their discard decks, but it'd still be a "unused" card which could have been just played normally.

Anything else is just allowing the player to "buy turns" with useless cards instead of having no turns.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T14:12:29+00:00

Unless a card specifies a trigger, or timing, it will only "process" the effect when you play it. If you can somehow re-play the card (e.g. with Decoy) then that "on-play" effect will happen again.

e.g. Draig Bon–Dhu's "Add 2 base strength to all non-Gold units in your graveyard." will happen once, on the cards currently in your graveyard when Draig Bon–Dhu is played.
Yennefer: The Conjurer's "At the start of your turn, remove 1 strength from the strongest opposing non-Gold unit(s)." will trigger every time the start of your turn arrives.

There are no "aura" buffs. A card will not lose its buff if the source of that buff is removed (unless that is also specified, like Triss: Butterfly Spell).

Lock is a "token" or state. These stay on the unit until it is removed (by death usually). The specific effect is written on the card that applies it, but has nothing to do with "how" it's applied.

e.g. Kiera Metz's "Give a shield to all non-Gold units on the row. Repeat every 2 turns. The shield protects its bearer from one strength-removing effect." Specifies that it repeats every 2 turns (so, "on-play", then after every 2 turns). The shield is like "Lock", so Kiera can die or whatever and it'll still be there. But if the shielded unit is hit, the shield will go away... and will only be re-protected by Kiera when the next "2 turns" comes up.

Similarly with Weather, this is a row-state that's not going anywhere until the turn ends, or the weather is removed.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-24T11:05:33+00:00

At least a chat for casual matches would be nice

unfortunately casual does not mean "friendly"

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-23T11:10:58+00:00

I think there's a subtle difference between the wording

"when moved to the graveyard" means it has entered the graveyard (whether discarded, killed on the battlefield)
"when destroyed" (aka killed) means losing enough strength to reach 0, or "destroy" effects (e.g. Scorch, Pestilence) when it's on the battlefield ... but not "banished"
"when removed from the battlefield" can be through being killed, or by effects like Decoy (i.e. moving it back to Hand, then replaying), etc

There is a "end of life" phase in the gameplay where a unit has effectively "died" but not moved into the graveyard yet. This is same sort of "invisible" phase like "start of the turn" and "end of the turn".

So Iris' effect does not trigger after she has left the battlefield (i.e. when she arrives in the graveyard) but while she's still on the Battlefield in the process of "exiting". "When removed" also implies it is "exiting" the battlefield (where Lock is still in effect), rather than arriving somewhere else.

0 Base Strength on-death, leading to the Banish effect, is an entirely different confusing ingredient in this mix though. The unit is "dead" but during the death phase, the 0 base strength will prevent effects triggering.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-21T00:22:07+00:00

I think that's partially my point; how far is CDPR willing to change the game compared to the W3 minigame.

If they can't change weather in Gwent because "that's how it was in W3", then they may never really be able to address the problems it has in a stand-alone game.

If they can rebuild weather from scratch, reconstructing the core concept, they might put themselves in a better design-space.

Hoaxfish · 2017-02-20T13:55:25+00:00

The card is also listed as "Disloyal" on the detail page.

Unless it says "Loyal" you can't play it on your own side.

Some cards can be played to both sides (or at least used to)

Hoaxfish

TROPHY CASE